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03-18-2014, 04:44 AM | #21 |
Monster Maker
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA.
Posts: 2,061
|
Quote:
are any of these non-toxic molds worth it? Could they make quality heads. i have small kids so i'd like to avoid the toxic stuff.
Amazon.com: Environmental Technology 1-Pound Kit Casting' Craft Easymold Silicone Putty: Arts, Crafts & Sewing
__________________
Personal sculpting blog: http://monster-zer0.blogspot.com/ Hisstank threads I've started about sculpting... General Sculpting http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ut-sculpt.html RTV mold http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...-tutorial.html The last thing you will hear is the cracking of your vertebrae, One... By... One! |
03-18-2014, 11:24 AM | #22 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,729
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thanks!
This looks promising: Body Double® Skin-Safe Silicone Product Information | Smooth-On BUt how do I know if this silicone rubber would be good for getting the details out of heads? Is there certain viscosity I should be looking for or something? |
03-18-2014, 06:30 PM | #23 |
Monster Maker
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA.
Posts: 2,061
|
Quote:
thanks!
This looks promising: Body Double® Skin-Safe Silicone Product Information | Smooth-On BUt how do I know if this silicone rubber would be good for getting the details out of heads? Is there certain viscosity I should be looking for or something? The other problem is the size of the object you are casting. If you look on the description you can see it has a "shore hardness," this is how tough the mold is; Durometer Shore Hardness Scale This stuff has a SH of A:25 which, according to their charts, puts it between a gummy bear and a shoe insert. Because it's so soft the molds could collapse under their own weight depending on how big of an object you want to reproduce. If it's just a 1/18th scale head then I doubt there will be a problem but if you are wanting something bigger I would look at a molding compound with a higher shore hardness. Smoothon's OOMOO series is considered non toxic and is something I normally use; it's simple to use, cheap and is the easier to find of the molding compounds but I would check it's MSDS sheet to see if it fits what your household situation. As for resins I think Alumalite's product is considered non toxic, might be something to check out.
__________________
Personal sculpting blog: http://monster-zer0.blogspot.com/ Hisstank threads I've started about sculpting... General Sculpting http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ut-sculpt.html RTV mold http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...-tutorial.html The last thing you will hear is the cracking of your vertebrae, One... By... One! |
03-18-2014, 06:49 PM | #24 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,729
|
From your opening post:
Quote:
Smooth-On, Inc. - Mold Making & Casting Materials Rubber, Plastic, Lifecasting, and More TAP Plastics I do have to say that this stuff is toxic! Read the information that comes with the product or the MSDS sheets on the website for proper use and handling, I don't want anybody getting a pet tumor. Which OOMOO are you using. I didn't see it called out in the thread. thanks for the help! I mainly want to do heads, weapons, webgear and some body parts for 1:18 |
03-18-2014, 09:37 PM | #25 |
Monster Maker
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA.
Posts: 2,061
|
Quote:
From your opening post:
But does the toxicity apply to OOMOO it looks like its just a skin irritant for prolonged exposure. BUt that was for OOMOO 30. Which OOMOO are you using. I didn't see it called out in the thread. thanks for the help! I mainly want to do heads, weapons, webgear and some body parts for 1:18 A casting station that you can set up and break down depending on need might be something to consider, that way your not leaving anything about that your kids can get into. With practice you can have a mold up and running in about 3-4 hours with the OOMOO 25 and some of the faster setting resins you can have pieces ready to go in an evening. So, cast up what you need and put everything away and clean-up while the kids are asleep? It sounds like what you are doing is small enough for the alginate product without deformation and if it's for personal use and not production you can get the parts you need without worry of mold degradation. After that it's going to be trial and error to get good casts; how big to make the feed in, how much air venting is needed and where to put it, stuff like that. Hopefully this is a help, it's why I started it. I'd hate to think it was doing the opposite.
__________________
Personal sculpting blog: http://monster-zer0.blogspot.com/ Hisstank threads I've started about sculpting... General Sculpting http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ut-sculpt.html RTV mold http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...-tutorial.html The last thing you will hear is the cracking of your vertebrae, One... By... One! |
03-18-2014, 10:12 PM | #26 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,729
|
your help is much appreciated. Good idea on the workstation. Now I just need to think of a place.
also what casting stuff do you buy for webgear? Last edited by CaliViper; 03-18-2014 at 10:26 PM.. |
03-18-2014, 11:48 PM | #27 |
Monster Maker
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA.
Posts: 2,061
|
Quote:
TASK® Series Liquid Plastics Product Information | Smooth-On It will depend on how thin of a part you are going to cast, something like a bulky vest and the 13 will work but if it's got tons of straps like the Retaliation Joe trooper then I would go with the 14. The reason being is that since you don't have a pressure pot then you will need the resin to remain viscous longer so it can settle into all the nooks and crannies as well as giving air bubbles time to escape. It takes longer to set up but it should help with making sure your casts come out.
__________________
Personal sculpting blog: http://monster-zer0.blogspot.com/ Hisstank threads I've started about sculpting... General Sculpting http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ut-sculpt.html RTV mold http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...-tutorial.html The last thing you will hear is the cracking of your vertebrae, One... By... One! |
03-23-2014, 07:59 PM | #28 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: kansas
Posts: 241
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For anyone that really is interested, I have used just about every type i can find of both casting resins and moldmaking materials. I make lots of molds. the best product hands down for mold making are the smooth-on products. If you just want to make a few things oomoo is the way to go. If you are gonna pull lots of parts consider a platinum rubber but be aware that youll need a scale and a vacuum chamber. Never rush trying to get that first part. Youll be dissapointed and out a lot of money. Take your time and youll make a good mold. Rush and youll be throwing that mold in the trash.
I always let my molds sit at least 24 hours before using them the first time. you dont always need mold release, but always spritz some on before storage. And here is another helpful hint try to warm your molds in warm water (sealed inside a plastic bag). Another thing i do is instead of using resin for the first few pulls i use candle wax as i can melt it back down and its way cheaper. I even do this with a mold that has sat for a while to get any dust or debris off the mold surface. As far as resins for application alot of time its trial and error. Sometimes you can make a phone call to smooth-on and tell them what your making and they can offer advice. I use a couple other brands too but it depends on application. And as far as coloring or adding pigment that is a trial and error thing all in itself. Finally a word on clear casting resin. Unless you have a dedicated workspace, ventilation, a respirator, and a pressure chamber and know what your doing DO NOT USE! It has some very serious fumes and is very prone to bubbles. |
03-24-2014, 11:57 AM | #29 |
Steel Brigade
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hungary
Posts: 932
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I just can't understand only 1 thing. Why with such a great experince none of you ever thought about to find a way to do this whole process cheaper and easier?
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Creativity - is our God =) Syndicate of Hungarian Custom Makers Check out my custom works on my facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/Syndicate-o...1039921033668/ |
03-24-2014, 04:10 PM | #30 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: kansas
Posts: 241
|
Quote:
It might be important to note that mold making overall is very expensive. Im sure its possible to make a mold out of epoxy (which is what i made most of the thermoform molds for husky liners out of) giving you a very long mold life other then potential for scratches. However i am pretty uncertain how the urethane resin would react with a epoxy mold. As far as resins go here again you just gotta try different ones there are cheaper ones and more expensive ones. yeah they cost so thats mostly why as a hobby this is hard to get into. I think eventually once the resolution of the 3d printers get good enough, and affordable enough most people will have that as a viable alternative. But you gotta have some way to scan in the part accurately or build a 3d model. At the end of the day i was lucky that someone else paid for the stuff for me to learn on, and i was taught how and what to do from the beginning. I still have some failures and its mostly due to old product. Maybe once a year ill have a genuine i screwed it up moment. I wish some of this stuff was cheaper too, id maybe get a little more work because the guys that have me make stuff gotta foot the bill for the mold and all. Some people dont care, others about have a coronary. |
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