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03-20-2012, 01:22 PM | #1 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Richmond
Posts: 141
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I will probably use this thread for all types of questions and will try to keep the OP update with confirmed answers that worked for me.
First off the stickies located in this forum are fantastic, and have been a ton of help. I am really excited about customizing and have had many neat ideas born form this forum. At this time I am doing all types of things with success including molding and cast custom parts using smoothon moldstar and smoothcast products. (expensive stuff for a n00b to be warned...but fun) so My first question has to do with paints. As a kid I always used the cheap testors style enamels and had sticky figures and such. After reading one of Jins guides I saw that I need to be using acrylics.. Like many other new customizes I am running into a little trouble. Acrylic paint is not acrylic paint... I have found. My local Micheal's and Ben Franklin do not carry the testors master series or name brands that I see pop up from games workshop (tamiya and such)... I know I can buy these online, but I really want an education in what is great about them, and how to know what I am looking at on all these bottles. Using a acrylic set for models I found...my first few customs..look, well horrible, lota of paint peeling, many layers needed, and such. Alot I know from my first couple has to do with not being patient and waiting overnight in between coats, but I am still sure the paint I am using is bunk. Before I can get into the real meaty parts of some of these tutorials and how to practice a technique, I need to ensure I am using the right tools. I need good paint, with a non glossy fat finish, that looks clean (or can be buffed). let me start with paint...and then I will continue and update the group on my leanings as a totally new customizer... |
03-20-2012, 01:33 PM | #2 |
Monster Maker
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA.
Posts: 2,061
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Testors Model Masters feels almost like a hybrid of acrylic and enamel. Enamel sticks better but takes forever, kind of a pain to clean up and doesn't blend as well as acrylics. Acrylics are a breeze to use and cleans up easier but doesn't stick as well. The Testors Model Masters is like a great combo of both and you should be able to pick them up at a local hobby store if you have one nearby.
Something else to pick up would be a flat sealant which will take off the gloss and help prevent chipping. There is debate whether this works or not but it might depend on how much clean-up on the joints and how much you pose the figure. What I have been doing lately is buying a spray can of Tamiya enamel paint and use that as the base coat for the fig, after that I add details in Model Masters, Valejo or Games workshop paints and then seal it with Mr. Hobby Super Clear Flat. I've also been experimenting with floor polish as a way of sealing in the paint. I have had mixed results with that.
__________________
Personal sculpting blog: http://monster-zer0.blogspot.com/ Hisstank threads I've started about sculpting... General Sculpting http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ut-sculpt.html RTV mold http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...-tutorial.html The last thing you will hear is the cracking of your vertebrae, One... By... One! |
03-20-2012, 01:40 PM | #3 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Richmond
Posts: 141
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Very good tips, thanks!
alot of the peeling in general and a rough look to the paint, is that due to the grade of the paint, lack of dry time, too many coats? or a combination of all? I know you were being serious...but this feels like a forums signature to me for customizers.... "I've also been experimenting with floor polish as a way of sealing in the paint. I have had mixed results with that." |
03-20-2012, 01:57 PM | #4 |
Monster Maker
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA.
Posts: 2,061
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Quote:
Very good tips, thanks!
alot of the peeling in general and a rough look to the paint, is that due to the grade of the paint, lack of dry time, too many coats? or a combination of all? I know you were being serious...but this feels like a forums signature to me for customizers.... "I've also been experimenting with floor polish as a way of sealing in the paint. I have had mixed results with that." Privateer Press puts out a line of paints called P3 that are very pigment heavy, which means that you are supposed to get rich colors with minimal coats but it is still an acrylic which will still give you chipping. Have you dremeled down the joints at all before you paint? That might help as well. Figures have, I think, three different kinds of plastic their parts are made from; stuff like hands, feet, limbs and heads are a soft plastic while the torso are from a hard plastic but it is the plastic they make the actual joints out of that are real tricky. Whatever it is called it does not take paint very well and is usually why those are modeled in color. Yeah, floor wax. Damn floor wax.
__________________
Personal sculpting blog: http://monster-zer0.blogspot.com/ Hisstank threads I've started about sculpting... General Sculpting http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ut-sculpt.html RTV mold http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...-tutorial.html The last thing you will hear is the cracking of your vertebrae, One... By... One! |
03-20-2012, 01:59 PM | #5 |
Gone Fishing
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Playing Outside In B.C. Canada
Posts: 8,615
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I would ditch the paint you bought & either go with Testors Model Master Acryl(not enamel!), Gamesworkshop/Citadel(only comes in acrylic) or Tamiya(acrylic).
The Testors Acryl is a hybrid as mentioned above and is sworn by many many customizers that work on 4-6 inch figures. Testors & Tamiya can be found @ local hobby shops(Micheal's is good for brushes - not paints) so try calling around in your area. Gamesworkshop/Citadel can be found @ Gamesworkshop stores, there is probably 1 near you somewhere.
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03-20-2012, 02:05 PM | #6 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 5,841
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I'm pretty new to this stuff too, and I've only been doing vehicles, but I've been having pretty good luck using Tamiya thinned with alcohol in my airbrush. It goes on really smooth and nice, and sticks pretty well.
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03-20-2012, 02:19 PM | #7 |
Czech Sniper
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: So. FL
Posts: 4,075
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You can use "flat" Testors also, so you don't have "sticky" figures.
Just make sure you use "flat" where flat should be (hair, clothing (non-leather), boots you DON'T want shiny, basically anything you want to look "flat". Gloss is good for things you DO want shiny - certain trim pieces or parts, buttons, boots you DO want shiny , etc. I said it the other day, I HATE to see things that should be flat, painted w/ gloss, so they "shine", hair is my particular pet peeve, next to weapons. :( I use the craft store and Michael's acrylics your speaking of, but I also try to only use them on stationary figures I just plan to display and not move around so I don't have the "flaking" your talking about either. If they do flake though, I just touch them up here and there, it's not like I'm playing w/ them all the time like I did when I was a kid. - Dry to learn to dry brush too, that gives some pretty cool effects on your paint apps too (like a light brushing of aluminum color on the end of weapon muzzles). - That's another thing, Testors makes a color called "aluminum", it looks WAY better than using "Silver" on everything. Don't get me wrong, silver has it's place, but on certain apps where you DON'T want something so bright, the aluminum color looks MUCH better. - Buy a good assortment of different brush SIZES also. Go ahead and spend the $$ and buy one or two really fine ones that are a few bucks each, they make life much easier in tight spots and small details.
__________________
Eric - "Oh dear" said Pooh, as he punched the magazine release... Feedback - http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...5-esg2145.html Customs - http://www.hisstank.com/forum/member...45-albums.html |
03-20-2012, 02:23 PM | #8 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 204
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Quote:
on a more serious note I wash my figures down with a toothbrush and washing up liquid to make sure all the mold release has gone as this can cause paint to not stick so well |
03-20-2012, 02:25 PM | #9 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco Bay Area
Posts: 5,841
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No, I think with isopropyl alcohol, and I drink the single malt. Though as the night goes on, my painting gets less and less exact. I haven't figured out why yet...
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03-20-2012, 02:33 PM | #10 |
Banned
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Posts: 1,986
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i recommend using tamiya acrylics. remember to note the difference between flat, semi-gloss, and glossy. it makes a big difference.
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