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04-04-2024, 08:13 AM | #1 |
A Cimmerian
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Mountain of Power
Posts: 11,117
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Hey Tank,
I'm looking into buying a 3D printer. I'm trying to get a feel for what's involved in the whole process, and was hoping some of you guys who are already in the mix could offer some insight. My main focus initially would be printing 1:18 scale heads and maybe accessories. I'm looking at resin printers. Things I'm considering are overall cost analysis- how much will supplies and continued maintenance cost versus buying heads from casters over time, how easy or how much does it cost on average to obtain head files? How many prints can you get out of how many ounces of resin? What's the amount of personal knowledge and skill I'll need to accrue to effectively operate this thing? And probably a shit ton of other stuff I'm not considering. I'd be looking at an "entry level" printer, and it would be several years, if at all, that I would be looking to upgrade-also recognizing that expense associated with this would tally against my overal toy budget.
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04-04-2024, 09:19 AM | #2 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 1,444
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Resin printing is an awesome hobby and you can do incredible things. I've been printing for two or three years now, and let me tell you, I've made every mistake you can possibly make. There is definitely a learning curve, but there are tons of very helpful videos on Youtube.
I use 3 Anycubic Mono X printers. I chose that model because Anycubic is very reputable, and the build plate is still the second largest on the market, which works well for what I print. Anycubic makes the Max with a HUGE build plate, but it's still close to $1000. The Mono X frequently goes on sale for about $400. To address some of your questions: 1. For heads, you're probably fine with a smaller build plate (the plate being the actual metal plate that the items print up on. They obviously have a XxY dimension, and then different plates have different heights they can acheive. 2. Price-wise, if you can find the models you want, you will save a ton of money versus buying printed heads. I use Sunlu resin, which is not only the best resin I've ever used (and I've used a lot of different brands), it's also close to the cheapest. Using Sunlu, I could print a head for 10 cents worth of resin, easily. I can print a 6 inch figure for about $3.00, after hollowing it out, which is a whole other conversation. 3. There are places that will sell you 3D models for heads, usually for $15 to $20, so if you're looking to print in bulk, it's worth it. If you're only looking for one head, it's probably not. Also, there aren't a TON of sellers who will sell you the models, because that cuts into their abiliity to sell prints of them. That is definitely something to consider. Search around for sellers before you take the plunge. You may find what you're looking for is not available. Also, 3D models are great because you can scale them however you like without losing resolution. 4. There is a solution for scarcity of models, but it's still pretty expensive. I bought a 3d Scanner that takes pretty sharply detailed scans of small items, and makes 3D models you can then recreate, or even manipulate. Blender is a 3D modeling program that is free and is incredibly powerful. It is also a HUGE learning curve. If you want to discuss scanners or Blender, let me know. 5. There are a lot of technical pitfalls when 3D printing, and you will screw up early and often. Just stick with it, work your way through it, and if you want specific tips, I'd be glad to share some experiences with you. You'd almost have to go into a full explanation of the process to discuss how things can screw up, and this post is massive enough already. I'd be glad to talk to you about that though.
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Feedback thread: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...38-dbritt.html Buy/Sell/Trade thread: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ritts-bst.html Last edited by dbritt; 04-04-2024 at 09:21 AM.. |
04-04-2024, 10:58 AM | #3 |
Customizer of 80s Toys
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: US
Posts: 1,762
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I'm glad you started this thread as 3D printing is something I've wanted to get into as well and it just seems overwhelming to even start.
Thanks dbritt as you broke everything down quite nicely.
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04-04-2024, 02:15 PM | #4 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 1,444
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Yeah, it's a huge topic with lots of great tips and caveats, but I've found it is amazing for my hobbying. I do a lot of sports customs, and it's been a game changer for me. Also, I've always loved Sideshow-style statues, but just could not pay those prices for any of them. Now, I can find models of them or similar things, print them, and paint them. With a little time and effort, which is the fun part anyway, I can print a 12" (or larger) statue for about ten to fifteen bucks worth of resin.
Anyway, it's easier to tackle specific questions, so feel free to shoot. I know some others on here print and have been doing it longer than I have.
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Feedback thread: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...38-dbritt.html Buy/Sell/Trade thread: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ritts-bst.html |
04-04-2024, 02:25 PM | #5 |
A Makeupless Clown
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,282
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I don't deal with resin printing myself (too paranoid about getting sensitized to chemicals and such) but if you have any FDM printing questions or Blender questions I may be able to chime in with something useful.
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04-05-2024, 04:03 PM | #6 |
Fartbutt McGillicuddy
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: EARF
Posts: 4,664
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i got a creality halot mage resin printer and a creality cr-10s fdm printer.
i started with the cr-10s, because, honestly, that will print everything you could ever want. and now fdm printers are getting faster and more intricate with their details. i have my printer basically stock and i can get some really great detail on an o-ring head. there are occasions where prints dont look so great and fdm just would not benefit for them. like, i was printing mando heads fine, but if i wanted a mind flayer o-ring head the fdm could not deliver. for props, and vehicles, my cr10s was a workhorse and did it well. my only problem is i've printed more than i can finish. i also have not ran it in months. i dragged my feet into resin #1 because i am lazy. i do not like the idea of dressing up in all kinds of ppe and gas masks and goggles and carefully measuring. listen. i dont know WHY but people who resin print have made it look like it's this fucking impossibly complicated thing and on top of that where any little move you do not think about means you're going to die. i literally bought my resin printer because it was cheap, printed great detail, and had a big build plate. after my very first print, i learned all of that overcomplicated shit was hype. there is no need to cover yourself head to toe in ppe with gasmasks, and go fucking nuts. i literally tossed a head in a slicer, added supports (which other people are crazy about not using enough of), sliced it, took my usb stick to my garage, turned on the printer, and printed. then an hour later, i took it off the build plate, dunked it in ipa and it was done. i put on chemical gloves, i contemplated getting an apron because again, the hype, but i learned that if i am careful and not touching the resin i can take it from plate to dunk and be fine. if you deal with ipa, or other harsh chemicals in your life (i basically lived with my face in bondo and fiberglass resin) and ipa is not much different in harm than they are. there is nothing to worry about with this resin hobby. you can use gloves to keep your hands from getting that icky resin feeling on them but you dont need to go nuts with the incredible overcomplication i've experienced people say. the software i use is 3d builder for dead nuts easy file remixing. i clean those up with meshmixer (which does the heavy lifting for remixing if 3d builder cannot provide me the tools i need). i slice with lychee because it offers more with it's free version than the other one i was using (dont remember). if you buy models from someone that knows what they're doing (it's rare) you can toss the file in your slicer and go. the slicer is up to you for what you're looking for. im going to start posting links of what i have to get you on your way. some of it i bought iwth the "holy shit if i get it on my skin im going to die" in mind, some is redundancy. i'll mention the less necessary stuff if it is. now, things like fep and screen protectors are for my printer - the creality halot mage. if you go with another brand you will have to look for ones that fit them. i'd hate for you to go down my list and get everything but end up with a different printer than mine. this is important because the #1 thing that can fuck you up with a printer is when your FEP breaks and resin pools under that and into your machine, this is for my printer, you should be able to find any for any other style printer. i couldnt get a concrete answer if my halot mage had a screen protector so i put it on anyway. beats the hell out of having to buy an all new screen and whatever else if my fep ever breaks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 you will need kaptom tape to tape down that screen protector it's thinner than a hair: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 back up FEP sheets, this is your vat sheet that you will pour your resin on. they need to be tight like a little drum. when i first got mine i went through a pack because - the whole overcomplication that every butthead made it sound like. it's just good to have for your printer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 3 in 1 ptfe lubricant aids in not having your prints stick to the FEP. this is optional for most people, but i use it on my fep and i like it. i am a creature of "if it works, it works" and "habit" and "superstition". https://www.lowes.com/pd/3-IN-ONE-Mu...icant/50370410 resin is like 25 bucks. it actually goes a long way for just heads. i think im on my second overall jug of it right now; just topping it off. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ipa can be filtered and reused (some people even go as far as decanting it like MASH, i am just letting a jug rest in the sun and filtering it as i've seen numerous videos do and see how that goes), you can use LA's totally awesome or simple green instead of ipa. i got my ipa by the quart at walmart. you are going to want a silicone mat to cover your workspace, just for ease of clean up when you do spill or dribble. i have an undersink mat, and then some slap mats over that. this is not available now, but this is what you are looking for not only just in shape but size check the recommended items to find a similar one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2 sets of slap mats, price around for them. i got two sets because i wanted a set to be redundant and help with clean up that go over my silicone sink mat to help with mess, and then i realized a second set would be great for when i take the pieces outside to cure on a paper towel.: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...2?ie=UTF8&th=1 i have 3 dollar tree metal sheet pans for "drying the piece after it's been dunked in my first dunk tank", "taking it out to cure" and "keeping all parts together while the other two are in use" papertowels, i am on my second roll. "pickle jugs" or storage containers with colanders for dunking your stuff to clean the resin off. i went with these. i have the biggest one as my main ipa dunk tank and then a medium size one for clean ipa after it's been dunked and dried.: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 a dedicated usb stick. this is what i have for my printer. for the halot mage recommended to get a small profile because my printer's usb port is in the front and that's where things are being moved around and risking breaking the usb stick or jamming it or something (it's happened to other people, i've read enough stories by the time i got my printer i ordered this). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1 stack of microfiber towels for when you need to clean your printer. like i said i went crazy when i first got my printer and changed my fep unnecessarily, these have not been used since. i keep them in a gallon sized ziploc bag to make sure they're clean: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 a large syringe for emptying your vat/fep to get rid of failed prints and cleaning your vat. i am a creature of panic when something goes wrong. and in the heat of the moment i am not calmly reaching for this to dump my vat. more people of more sound mind would use this or a pump. you can straight dump your vat but this keeps the mess down. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 probably completely unnecessary, but i have my printers in my garage. i put a layer of this uv proof window film to add an extra layer of protection to my resin prints to keep from curing in the printer (though the printer cover should be fine). mine is bubbled all to hell and looks like shit, even taking my time and using soapy water. i lose sleep over stupid shit and not having this there would have been one of them. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 a rotating solar turntable for curing your prints. i use this all the time inside one of my smaller storage containers from the link above (to keep the rain out nad from it blowing away). but you can just leave your stuff outside on a paper towel, which is on a silicone mat, which is then on a metal tray and get teh same effect (but you'll have to rotate the print) if it's rainy just toss your stuff under a clear storage tub and you'll be fine. https://www.amazon.com/Powered-Rotat...s%2C134&sr=8-6 so that's it from me that i can think of for now. good luck! |
04-06-2024, 11:00 PM | #7 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: sitting in my tin can far above the world
Posts: 3,939
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While you are researching resin printers, I recommend checking out Elegoo also. I have an Elegoo Saturn and have been very happy with it. Elegoo's customer service is also excellent from what I've seen others report online.
There is a learning curve to printing, but I don't think it is as difficult as people say online. You just have to learn a few basics to watch out for, and then tweak from there. For me, I've found temperature to be the biggest factor between fails and success. My printer is in the basement and sometimes it gets cold. It's in a room the size of a large closet, so in the winter I warm it up with a space heater first. 70 degrees seems to be the optimum temp. If it drops below 65 and I don't warm it up first, I get a bunch of print errors. Even if it succeeds, I feel like the detail also prints better when warmer. The other recommendation is to take some consideration that resin is hard to clean off of stuff. I have a 2x4 metal table that my printer sits on, like you see in restaurant kitchens and I use cheap foil turkey pans to scrape wet prints off the build plate and remove supports in prior to cleanup. This helps contain the mess, especially with spills. And for sure wear gloves and be mindful that everything you touch will get sticky.
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Feedback: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...-feedback.html Last edited by Breakerfan; 04-06-2024 at 11:20 PM.. |
04-26-2024, 02:22 PM | #8 |
Fartbutt McGillicuddy
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: EARF
Posts: 4,664
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heyo what's the news on this?
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