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05-11-2020, 12:42 PM | #151 |
Extensive Enterprises Rep
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3,976
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Quote:
Thanks! Agree, it’s crazy what paint does to the WW2 figures, looking forward to using them more for customs moving forward. Can’t stop staring at him on my shelf, haha.
I have this, just never tried it yet because my guys weren’t “finished” before.....but now I really am getting to the point where I have enough pouches & stuff that I don’t need to worry about running out of gear so I should start sealing my guys & gluing the pouches in place. https://www.consumercrafts.com/store...SABEgKRD_D_BwE Some tips would be much appreciated! What I read before was throw down a piece of cardboard in the garage, stand several feet away and give it a quick spray on all sides, let that dry for an afternoon and then do a second coat. Like you said, trying to make sure you don’t leave any real clumpy spots. After painting the figure, do you have to do anything special to seal the joints or just sort of pose him arms & legs out and a nice coverage spray should take care of everything pretty well in two thin coats? Thanks, appreciate it! I think I’ve only painted two official Hasbro figures so no sanding of points or anything here, I just try to keep it thin around those areas if I have to paint them at all and I don’t usually run into much rub or flaking with Marauder products. Never popped a figure or anything, haha, still in the novice stages of customizing. I typically sand joints with a dremel. I didn’t do it when I first started customizing but now when a part gets joint wear it really bothers me and I usually don’t have the exact paint to fix it. Honestly dremeling is my least favorite part but it’s worth it in the end. I usually get an idea for a build and just want to start painting but doing all the prep works can really change your appreciation for the artistry. As far as tips for topcoats go I have a few different methods I use. This usually requires more patience like dremel work because your customs is “done” but now you can only look at it as the sealant dries, haha. I’m not sure about the one you gave a link to. It’s worth trying though. I use a spray sometimes (Army Painter makes a nice one but can go on thick if you’re not careful). I got too close on a build and it ruined the look, which always sucks to get that far on a custom to be ruined by a topcoat. My all time favorite topcoat spray is technically not supposed to be used in the U.S. due to the toxic fumes and I’d banned in a few states. It’s a small can and expense but it has a clean look that I haven’t been able to reproduce with other brands. Now, topcoats that can be brushed, I used these frequently and especially on the joints. I have two types, a gloss and a matte anti-shine. This might sound odd but I will do my first coat with a gloss topcoat. It gives it a factory feeling to touch. Then I will do a second coat, which is the matte to take the gloss shine away. That does a few things for me, first it seals it really well, second it makes the joint slide easier, and third the matte shows me where I missed because the figure will still look shiny from the gloss so I can touch it up. *edit Almost forgot, it is very important when doing the first coat with a brush to do a thin coat and be quick. If you go over areas again or before it dries fully, the paint will be removed and leave your paint job looking choppy. This takes practice and skill to get used to so don’t be discouraged if it doesn’t work the first few times. Okay that was a lot, haha. Hopefully it helps though. There are many other techniques out there and I’m sure people have better ways to do this. I haven’t been trained on much when it comes to customs so most stuff was trial and error. But I feel I’m in a decent place for my customs and wish I would have listened more to the advice from others on tutorials and YouTube.
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FB link: https://m.facebook.com/KR-Customs-10...?ref=bookmarks Last edited by kuh_rupht; 05-11-2020 at 12:47 PM.. |
05-11-2020, 01:23 PM | #152 |
Knuckle Massage!
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: CT sometimes Tokyo
Posts: 8,288
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Lovin' that Red Star! Just awesome!
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05-11-2020, 01:29 PM | #153 |
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 10,010
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Red Star looks dope! Got to get tough! Yo Joe!
Last edited by Yeet; 05-12-2020 at 08:57 AM.. |
05-11-2020, 01:31 PM | #154 |
ORZO
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 2,135
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Awesome! Thanks, Kuh Rupht! Really appreciate the detailed response and recommendations! It’s definitely a step i should start taking now that my shelves are becoming filled with more & more custom painted figures. Especially because I enjoy grabbing them for a few pics every so often so some get handled a decent amount. I’m also experimenting with camo now so should get them protected on the occasions that I do a good job painting. Haha.
Really only had two that I’ve dealt with paint chipping but now as I get more ambitious with the full body paint jobs, I did start to wonder how they’d hold up in the long term. Red Star was only the third figure that I did a full body paint job on so these recent customs have all been a good learning experience for me.
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Orzo’s Custom Thread (GUIDE in 1st Post): http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...kitbashes.html Orzo’s Toy Photography & Appreciation Thread (GUIDE in 1st Post): https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...ml#post5391654 Orzo’s Dio-Stories & Comics (TOC in 1st Post): https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...ml#post5347693 Last edited by Hit & Run; 05-11-2020 at 01:38 PM.. |
05-11-2020, 01:35 PM | #155 |
ORZO
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 2,135
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Thanks! Been waiting to replace that Hasbro one on the shelf for far too long!
Thanks, appreciate it! Hahaha, still one of the greatest theme songs ever! As much as I love the S1 & 2 intros and the movie intro, I can’t for sure say that I don’t prefer the Get Tough to them both.
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Orzo’s Custom Thread (GUIDE in 1st Post): http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...kitbashes.html Orzo’s Toy Photography & Appreciation Thread (GUIDE in 1st Post): https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...ml#post5391654 Orzo’s Dio-Stories & Comics (TOC in 1st Post): https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...ml#post5347693 |
05-11-2020, 01:52 PM | #156 |
A Cimmerian
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Mountain of Power
Posts: 11,080
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Quote:
Awesome! Thanks, Kuh Rupht! Really appreciate the detailed response and recommendations! It’s definitely a step i should start taking now that my shelves are becoming filled with more & more custom painted figures. Especially because I enjoy grabbing them for a few pics every so often so some get handled a decent amount. I’m also experimenting with camo now so should get them protected on the occasions that I do a good job painting. Haha.
Really only had two that I’ve dealt with paint chipping but now as I get more ambitious with the full body paint jobs, I did start to wonder how they’d hold up in the long term. Red Star was only the third figure that I did a full body paint job on so these recent customs have all been a good learning experience for me. Star Wars GI Joe BFS MTF Marvel Universe (I've done a many customs with no dremmeling/joint treatment at all with no paint rub issues. Except maybe the shoulder joints on most male figures, these guys don't grind that much). Of course, that can vary based on specific figures within a line, as well.
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AxonRey’s Servicable Customs (perpetually under construction): http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...masterhub.html Customizer’s Water Cooler (All Purpose Custom Talk): http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ml#post5316347 BST: https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...rey-b-s-t.html |
05-11-2020, 02:18 PM | #157 |
Extensive Enterprises Rep
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3,976
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The older marauder stuff is decent without dremel but does still get rub in places. Marauders WWII stuff is really tight and required more than normal dremeling for me.
Putting a topcoat just works better long term. I move a lot, it’s the nature of the job, and it helps a lot when having to put hands on them. Last time we moved I wrapped them in paper towels and anything painted in Tamiya paint without topcoat was stuck to the paper towel and did a number on my customs.
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05-11-2020, 04:16 PM | #158 |
ORZO
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 2,135
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Quote:
The older marauder stuff is decent without dremel but does still get rub in places. Marauders WWII stuff is really tight and required more than normal dremeling for me.
Putting a topcoat just works better long term. I move a lot, it’s the nature of the job, and it helps a lot when having to put hands on them. Last time we moved I wrapped them in paper towels and anything painted in Tamiya paint without topcoat was stuck to the paper towel and did a number on my customs. Sorry to hear about the customs damaged in the moves. Never great to find something damaged after unpacking but even worse when it’s something sentimental or that you spent time working on. Had my share of those over the years. Quote:
I'll also add in that MTG figures do not require as intensive dremmeling/sanding as do regular GI Joes. I've rated them thusly, from most sanding required to least:
Star Wars GI Joe BFS MTF Marvel Universe (I've done a many customs with no dremmeling/joint treatment at all with no paint rub issues. Except maybe the shoulder joints on most male figures, these guys don't grind that much). Of course, that can vary based on specific figures within a line, as well.
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Orzo’s Custom Thread (GUIDE in 1st Post): http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...kitbashes.html Orzo’s Toy Photography & Appreciation Thread (GUIDE in 1st Post): https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...ml#post5391654 Orzo’s Dio-Stories & Comics (TOC in 1st Post): https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...ml#post5347693 |
05-11-2020, 06:40 PM | #159 |
Retired Toy Hunter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Burbank, Ca.
Posts: 12,048
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He just needs some rolled up sleeves and he’ll be perfect.
What’s a Ref Star?
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05-12-2020, 08:35 AM | #160 |
ORZO
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 2,135
|
Quote:
Next up is a build that I had together for a while now but I was always hesitant to paint because it wasn’t just “armor” painting. Been a while so I forget who’s custom I saw on here that used Hasbro parts, but that one was so awesome & this was always my favorite Duke so I started working on a MTF version the second the red rolled sleeves came out. Version 3 Duke. He uses all Marauder parts, just with some red, gold & brown paint added. Love how the camo came out so he’s rising quickly now as one of my favorite customs. Easily my most used version of Duke growing up. Duke v3
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Orzo’s Custom Thread (GUIDE in 1st Post): http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...kitbashes.html Orzo’s Toy Photography & Appreciation Thread (GUIDE in 1st Post): https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...ml#post5391654 Orzo’s Dio-Stories & Comics (TOC in 1st Post): https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...ml#post5347693 Last edited by Hit & Run; 07-19-2020 at 12:26 AM.. |
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