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01-11-2017, 03:34 PM | #11 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,548
|
Looking good. You said you read through Freakingtiger tutorial thread. That is also where I learned about chemical welds. I was personally disappointed with the hold of Bondene. I stepped up to plumbing cleaner and cement. The clear PVC Cleaner works like the Bondene except much more powerful. Depending what I am doing some times I will use only the cleaner and sometimes I use a mix of the cleaner and the multipurpose plumbing cement. With the cleaner it allows a very quick curing strong weld but when you use the cement and the cleaner together it takes about a day or 2 to fully cure but if clamped together it will give you a real deep fusion of the styrene.
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01-11-2017, 04:13 PM | #12 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,548
|
Also on the tracks (they will not weld) if you can not find a good spot to screw them to you can just screw mounts to them and then weld the mounts to the body.
If I get a piece of plastic that will not weld then I make plastic mounts and screw attach them with screws. Then just weld those mounts to the ABS vehicle body.
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01-11-2017, 04:24 PM | #13 |
Joe Aircraft Maintainer
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Alaska
Posts: 93
|
I'm using the bondene for differing plastics, only because my local hobby town had a massive sale when they went out of business last fall. I did find that it does need time to fully cure, and so far everything is holding up, but it takes a little longer than I expected to get it to the point where I can stop squeezing the pieces together with my fingers. But when I attach the tracks it may be a different story, as they are the newer "rubbery" plastic, the little panels of styrene already fell off once, but I don't think I used enough weld to begin with. Plus I only get an hour every couple nights to even make progress, so I don't mind letting it set to cure as long as I plan for it.
Does the PVC cleaner allow any time for "adjustments". Say I lay a piece down crooked, do I have time to move it around if need be? I'll probly give it a shot though, can you get it at lowes/Home Depot? |
01-11-2017, 04:27 PM | #14 |
Joe Aircraft Maintainer
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Alaska
Posts: 93
|
Quote:
Also on the tracks (they will not weld) if you can not find a good spot to screw them to you can just screw mounts to them and then weld the mounts to the body.
If I get a piece of plastic that will not weld then I make plastic mounts and screw attach them with screws. Then just weld those mounts to the ABS vehicle body. Just saw this as I was posting, thanks for the tip! I was planning on a "rivet" and hiding it under the LRU trays, but I'm kinda leary on putting that kind of stress on the plastic, I may just do as you suggest. |
01-11-2017, 06:12 PM | #15 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,548
|
Quote:
The cleaner comes with a HUGE dobber attached to the lid. I cut the dobber down to where it is only a centimeter or so across. It allows you to apply the liquid much heavier which also helps with the level of melt and weld you get. If I have a joint that is going to need extra strength I will allow the initial weld to cure and then go back and apply more of the cleaner to both sices of the joint, allow to cure and repeat.
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01-11-2017, 06:16 PM | #16 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,548
|
On Ebay I buy screws that are about the same size as the ones used in Joes legs. I can not find any that small at any of my local hardware stores.
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01-11-2017, 06:20 PM | #17 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,548
|
Making round holes. Forgot to address that one. I use an electric burner to heat knives and hole punches. If you want to make a perfect round hole the easiest way to do it would be to get a phillips screw driver or similar in the right size, heat it up very hot, and just punch it through. Quick and easy.
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Check out all my custom vehicles on my FB page each vehicle has its own album. https://www.facebook.com/GiJoeCustomVehicles |
01-11-2017, 11:28 PM | #18 |
Joe Aircraft Maintainer
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Alaska
Posts: 93
|
Quote:
Making round holes. Forgot to address that one. I use an electric burner to heat knives and hole punches. If you want to make a perfect round hole the easiest way to do it would be to get a phillips screw driver or similar in the right size, heat it up very hot, and just punch it through. Quick and easy.
As far as the screws... I have a whole bag full of major blood legs from 2000 when for some reason I built an army of rock vipers. |
01-11-2017, 11:59 PM | #19 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,548
|
Quote:
Secondly Range Viper armies are cool.
__________________
Check out all my custom vehicles on my FB page each vehicle has its own album. https://www.facebook.com/GiJoeCustomVehicles |
01-14-2017, 06:09 AM | #20 |
Joe Aircraft Maintainer
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Alaska
Posts: 93
|
I lightly hand primered the track armor and interior, I'm using really watered down thin coats, so hopefully it turns out well.
I then painted the "tracking computer and rack". I obviously need better brushes and technique. Think I'm only going to do one more for this project. I also ordered my "driver" from Marauder today, can't wait to get him in the mail. I browsed the awesomeness that is Blood Brigade, and saw he already did one similar to what I was imagining, and I was going to do the canopy all armored up, with just flat pieces of sheet, but his tracked version has that also. Well, I decided to try something a little different... I framed and extended the viewing area, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out so far, and it's not terribly crooked. I'll shave off the two extended pieces after it cures. I plan on cutting up some dirt bike goggle lenses for the windshield, just need to find the right color, like an amber/gold reflective. -Crow |
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