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02-08-2020, 01:58 AM | #41 |
The Man You Know & Love
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: In The Middle of a Late Night Crew Orgy
Posts: 28,219
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02-08-2020, 02:22 AM | #42 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,102
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Quote:
It's actually pretty easy to solve both issues there, though I don't blame you for the worry. The first time I hung my Night Raven I was terrified, but it managed to stay in place for 5+ years with no issue.
I've always used fishing line with a good weight rating, and used three strands to loop around the cockpit and wings (or afterburners, in the case of my Sky Striker). Really the important part is to make sure where you're looping can support the weight, and making sure the hooks are secured in a stud. As far as dust goes, I've always used salvaged sliding glass doors to fashion a floor to ceiling enclosure, because I'm a bit of a cheap bastard when it comes to things like that. They're pretty easy to find on the free/cheap, and very simple to rig up and make look nice. I always keep my toys behind glass when possible, because I don't want to dust them ever, even the ones at ground level!;) That bit's probably a bit more labor intensive than most would want to go, but it did cut my dusting down from bi weekly to... well, never again. In any case, however you go, you've got a cool set up coming along, keep dropping pics as you progress (and apologies for the "tutorial", it's just my MO to type 3-4 paragraphs when a sentence or three would suffice)! I'd like to see how you did that with sliding doors. I've thought about something similar, only using glass storm doors instead of sliding doors, I'm just not sure on what kind of shelving to do behind the glass. |
02-08-2020, 03:24 AM | #43 |
Mass Nerderer
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Slitherin' around the tank- It's cool, though, 'cause I'm being "watched"
Posts: 9,118
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Quote:
The first wasn't overly complicated, I essentially landscaped some plywood two doors length and one deep and mounted it on top of a roughly 15'x3'x3' box, and then just built the enclosure around it. Decent display for the first attempt and easily lit being one massive level, but it had a few issues: the doors were hinged at the top, being hung lengthwise as they were, so opening it was a real pain the the ass. Also, the size of my collection at the time was growing, so it started to make it less and less a cohesive diorama, and more of a crowded mess of figures, half of which didn't suit the terrain. For the second, I wanted a bit more variety, so I disassembled the original and went with two uprights split into six 3'x3' landscaped shelves, again from plywood. This one was all around easier to manage, and it was nice having the variety in terrain, but as the shelves weren't transparent, each required it's own lighting. I personally only display my figures "in action", but if you're wanting to go with simple shelving and be able to see all the way through on one light source, it may be worth your while to have some tempered glass shelves custom made to fit. Not cheap, but still far cheaper than buying a case that size. If you plan on doing each shelf as a dio as I did, you can pretty well use anything that'll stand up to the weight, you'll just probably want a light under each shelf. |
02-08-2020, 04:23 AM | #44 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,102
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Quote:
Wish I still had pics of the last two enclosures I built, but after the last move, displays of that size have been a no go. The main draw of the doors was both that they're typically tempered glass if they're not ancient, and that they usually have a frame already on them, so all you really have to do for the main box is drill and add hardware.
The first wasn't overly complicated, I essentially landscaped some plywood two doors length and one deep and mounted it on top of a roughly 15'x3'x3' box, and then just built the enclosure around it. Decent display for the first attempt and easily lit being one massive level, but it had a few issues: the doors were hinged at the top, being hung lengthwise as they were, so opening it was a real pain the the ass. Also, the size of my collection at the time was growing, so it started to make it less and less a cohesive diorama, and more of a crowded mess of figures, half of which didn't suit the terrain. For the second, I wanted a bit more variety, so I disassembled the original and went with two uprights split into six 3'x3' landscaped shelves, again from plywood. This one was all around easier to manage, and it was nice having the variety in terrain, but as the shelves weren't transparent, each required it's own lighting. I personally only display my figures "in action", but if you're wanting to go with simple shelving and be able to see all the way through on one light source, it may be worth your while to have some tempered glass shelves custom made to fit. Not cheap, but still far cheaper than buying a case that size. If you plan on doing each shelf as a dio as I did, you can pretty well use anything that'll stand up to the weight, you'll just probably want a light under each shelf. |
02-08-2020, 04:28 AM | #45 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,102
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I have around a couple hundred figures I believe and also quite a few vehicles. I still have figures and vehicles to get as well, so I'd like to make a few displays, each with a different enviroment and have them in glass in my man cave. Just not sure how big each would need to be.
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02-08-2020, 06:24 AM | #46 |
Mass Nerderer
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Slitherin' around the tank- It's cool, though, 'cause I'm being "watched"
Posts: 9,118
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What sold me on dios was a mixture of being a kid and having more fun building forts out of shoeboxes and displaying my joes than I did actually playing with them, and good old Beetlejuice:.
The biggest reasons I broke down the original was pretty well the same reasons you mentioned wanting to do them separately. When I first started, I had maybe 50 or so figures, a couple of vehicles, and the Terror Drome, so one display worked well. Once it grew to 4 or 500 figures and around 50 vehicles, not so much. I ended up doing a tundra/arctic set up, a harbor battle, grasslands, desert, mountain and swamp displays, which worked out well. It was also good to spread the Snake Eyes around a bit. I never did figure out how to convincingly create an above/below the water display, though. my divers were always either about to jump in, or confined to a boat. With the sizing, that'll of course depending on how much room you have, and what you're displaying. Best thing I could tell you would be to over estimate- you can always add a few figures to fill dead space, but there's nothing worse than finishing one, and then realizing it's cramped. |
02-08-2020, 09:35 AM | #47 |
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 10,010
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Quote:
Honestly, ever since I played modern warfare 2 and saw the museum board, I've had the idea of displaying my figures in separate, self contained displays. Examples being snow serpents in an arctic environment, eels and divers in a water display with some boats as well, with both above water as well as below. It would make it easier to integrate the various types I have rather than trying to make 1 all encompassing diorama that has all these different environments. Also it would allow me to display the various named figures like Snake eyes and Duke in different setups rather than have several versions of the same characters in the same display.
Your post also reminded me that I need to make customs of the MW crew! |
02-08-2020, 11:46 AM | #48 |
Top Shelf
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 628
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Quote:
So these are my cabinets. My wife was nice enough to let them be in the main room of the house. They have tempered glass faces and locks. No dusting, and It's quite the conversation piece when we have visitors.
The TV is 55" for scale. These are custom cabinets designed by me. The back cabinet was made specifically for the USS Flag and other larger toys such as the Defiant, Terror Drome, The P.I.T., etc. this is 38" deep and can fit most of the jets also. The cabinets near the round window is 30" deep for some of the larger star wars playsets and the GI Joe headquareters fits in there. The one with the TV is 12" and fits most of the figures. I recommend getting those spice rack stands so you can see the figures in the back. I need to get some more of those. The slatwall on the back side of the cabinets allows for peghooks or other shelving could be installed. All of the shelves are adjustable. |
02-08-2020, 12:38 PM | #49 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 1,102
|
Quote:
What sold me on dios was a mixture of being a kid and having more fun building forts out of shoeboxes and displaying my joes than I did actually playing with them, and good old Beetlejuice:.
The biggest reasons I broke down the original was pretty well the same reasons you mentioned wanting to do them separately. When I first started, I had maybe 50 or so figures, a couple of vehicles, and the Terror Drome, so one display worked well. Once it grew to 4 or 500 figures and around 50 vehicles, not so much. I ended up doing a tundra/arctic set up, a harbor battle, grasslands, desert, mountain and swamp displays, which worked out well. It was also good to spread the Snake Eyes around a bit. I never did figure out how to convincingly create an above/below the water display, though. my divers were always either about to jump in, or confined to a boat. With the sizing, that'll of course depending on how much room you have, and what you're displaying. Best thing I could tell you would be to over estimate- you can always add a few figures to fill dead space, but there's nothing worse than finishing one, and then realizing it's cramped. Glad to be of service, you should definitely do that. |
02-08-2020, 01:03 PM | #50 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: sitting in my tin can far above the world
Posts: 3,935
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Quote:
As for the above/below, I figured plexiglass would would work with something covering the surface to mimic waves. I saw this one method on here, I forget who did it, but he used painted fabric that he, I believe sprayed repeatedly with starch until it was solid. It looked just like rolling waves. To go the extra mile, you might cut the shape of the bottom of the boat's into the plexiglass so that part are above the waterline as well as below, bit that would definitely effect moving them into different formations.
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