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#11 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: WI
Posts: 132
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I was thinking about this a little more and the XPS foam could be a good option. The reason I don't like it is because I only have cut it with a razor blade and it is pretty much impossible to get perfect cuts that way. They work fine for most things, but with something like this where you are going to want precision.
I have not personally used one, but I have seen several YouTubers use hotwire jigs and tables to make precise cuts and arcs in XPS. You can even cut down the thickness of the sheets relatively easy as well if you have a jig. Not sure what tools you have, but the Proxxon gets high ratings and people on etsy sell jigs for them. There are also people that go the build your own table and jig route. So with a hot wire I think you could get precise shapes out of XPS and then skin stuff in 010 or 020 Styrene depending on how much bend you need. To solve the potential "top heavy" problem in using such light materials you could get small weighted objects to set on the inside out of view since this will be modular when you set it up to help balance it if it tips easy. |
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#12 |
Overlord of Evil
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Philly
Posts: 11,072
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I really need to get started on this to have it for the August G.I. Joe show.
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#13 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Alabama
Posts: 563
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You absolute madman. The finished product will be a glorious sight to behold. Like the Ark of the Covenant or Arnold Scwarzenegger pulling a tracking device out of his nose in Total Recall. Can't wait to see pics.
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DoubtFire: Horror, Wrestling, Video Games, Attempts at Humor, and Toy Photography: https://doubtfireblog.wordpress.com/ ; www.instagram.com/DoubtFireToys |
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#14 |
seigie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: edmonton, canada
Posts: 3,530
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Wow. Applaud your ambition, recreating something that scale will be monumental and glorious!
I realize your just getting stated and structure is obviously first stage to tackle, but I’m curious about all the interior details. Scratch built, printed or a combination? |
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#15 |
Mass Nerderer
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Slitherin' around the tank- It's cool, though, 'cause I'm being "watched"
Posts: 7,447
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Tell you what, I could use a little drive to get my 4" version going, I've been thinking about it and checking out my plans ever since you opened the thread the other day- why don't we race?
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#16 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: inside my house
Posts: 95
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An arms race?
I'll be honest, seeing the trouble bubble renders...I did feel the need to have a drome to put them in. My last terror drome project was in 2008 restoring a classic one to crayola colors, so I could certainly try to do one in 1/12 scale. I feel like with the size, we could use mechanical hinges and the sturdy materials...so it would be resistant to breaking..but I agree on the weight. No turning a salad bowl into a cover for this one, ![]() |
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#17 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 3,417
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You probably already know this, but I am adding it here just in case (I did not know before I started working with styrene).
I have been working on R2-D2 for the last couple of years. You can use Weld-On 3 to adhere styrene together. It is not really an adhesive, though. It melts or chemically binds the plastic together. I have seen people (much larger than me) stand on top of their droid frames once they have been built. Working in styrene is great. You can use different thicknesses to build the frame or skin stuff. You can sand it, file it, paint it. I might also recommend a 3D printer for some of this project. They are miracle machines. |
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