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10-16-2012, 04:33 PM | #1 |
B.A.T. Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lestah
Posts: 1,123
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Here is the in-progress of an SDCC Shockwave Hiss Tank I was commissioned to light up. I started not too long ago, but finally asked the commissionee if they minded I put up the pics, luckily he was all for it.
Started with the gattlings. By chance, just before I was contacted, I snagged a dremel drill press on sale. Ended up helping alot, but with the need for a larger hole in the barrel, it could only do so much. Luckily I had also bought a decent vice on sale as well. Unfortunately, it started going off to 1 side so I chose to stop, but I like it. Got almost all the wiring into the gattling body, still need to figure out what kind of switch and where. I would prefer not to use the same small slide switches I've been using since this is the smallest individual thing I've lit up. Going to look into something called a Reed switch, where if done right, should activate the light simply by placing a magnet near/over it: This is just showing that the LED will completely fit into the barrel: Lit up. Sadly, the plastic is too translucent for a light-piping effect to completely take place, but I think it'll do the trick: All together minus switch: And in the dark: Note: More progress pics can be seen throughout this thread.
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Handmade action figure and diorama accessories: https://www.etsy.com/shop/BoMCreationz https://www.facebook.com/BoMCreationz Instagram: Fesifisky Last edited by Fesifisky; 10-17-2019 at 09:35 PM.. Reason: Updated with current in-progress pic |
10-16-2012, 04:38 PM | #2 |
Punching Clowns
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Choking Smurfs
Posts: 10,131
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I like that.
Would there be any way to put another bulb farther down?
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10-16-2012, 04:48 PM | #3 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Hawthorne, New Jersey
Posts: 2,741
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Most excellent!
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10-16-2012, 04:54 PM | #4 |
B.A.T. Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lestah
Posts: 1,123
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Quote:
I tried that once and didn't like being able to see the wires going between the 2 lights, but may revisit that. When it is all lit up in the last pics above, that was as far as I could hollow out due to the hole starting to get skewed to 1 side. One of the pains of doing that part by hand. However, I haven't looked at it in a couple weeks and just did and forgot that I had made it a lil further. Going to try to straighten it out and go in just a bit more. Thank you sir!
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10-16-2012, 04:59 PM | #5 |
B.A.T. Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lestah
Posts: 1,123
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The gattling was done a couple weeks ago, just wanted to have a lil more to show before posting.
I was very nervous about drilling into the nose because there is only 1 other available to me like this. To be safe, I started off by using masking tape in the recessed area where the 'eye' is and traced the edges, then copied that to a piece of paper and folded in half each way to get the exact center. Then placed the paper into the recessed area and used a large sewing needle to mark my center point in the plastic. I then used my smallest drill bit by hand to make the first hole and then progressively went up in size but using a dremel on medium speed to avoid burrs. Again, the dremel met it's limits as I needed a larger hole(never thought I'd ever say that, ha!): Had to cut out the center portion to make space for the LED and wiring: And now it's ready for the light: But first, the light. After looking at many pictures online, I decided on a simple yellow LED. Used a piece of scrap tubing to keep the light from protruding too much and double as a mounting point on the back. Notice the end is flat. Yay dremel. I'll used a quick coat or two of gloss clear once done: LED soldered up: Soldered LED in place. The gold paint will be repainted black. I have to admit, I was quite disappointed with Hasbro in their paint app of Shockwave's eye on both noses Together and lit up: And I have some neat ideas for the rest, hopefully they all work out. I'll be posting updates as they are done. Thanks for checking this out. Any and all feedback is welcome.
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10-16-2012, 05:24 PM | #6 |
B.A.T. Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Lestah
Posts: 1,123
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This post shows the rest of the work up until 2 days ago. Next post should be current.
Got to work on the cockpit. The request was to be preferably black light or purple. I found ultraviolet LEDs at my Radioshack and tried a couple. They are not as bright as I had hoped, but that is the nature of UV/black lights. And the color will work nicely. I'm not ready to take apart the Shockwave Hiss quite yet(researching the best way to protect the paint), so I used a spare cockpit to try my ideas. After checking the space with a figure inside another Hiss tank, I figured out where my first 2 lights will go, here, you'll see one mocked into place before drilling the holes: Found even smaller switches than I usually use and decided to get one to try, as apparently even though the site lists em, none of my local Radioshacks carry Reed switches. But I think these will work quite well in a couple places on this thing: More mockup, used my spare(workhorse) Hiss body and Shockwave canopy to get an idea how it'll look: Here you will see the holes in place at the front of the cockpit with 1 light mocked into place. You will also see another LED under the controls where I cut out the plastic. Not 100% sure how I'm going to finish that portion up, but I have an idea in my head: Lit up with 4 UV LEDs. So far, I have at least 6 of these planned for the cockpit alone: Threw the canopy over it to get a better idea of angles I need to point the lights at: After cutting out the insides of the side consoles, I started boxing them in, but leaving a gap at the bottom of each to allow light to come through: Mockup of another light, this time in the center console pointed about where the head of the driver will be: First permanently mounted UV LED in the cockpit: And of course, testing the LED after permanently mounting it: 2nd UV LED permanently installed and tested: 3rd UV LED installed and tested: Using a spare Retaliation Hiss body as my test mule again:
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10-16-2012, 06:32 PM | #7 |
XXXtreme Keyboarder
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: satan's skillet
Posts: 4,070
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Oh man, this is going to be amazing!
For the Gatling guns, you might want to get some small acrylic rods if you want a proper light piping effect. I'm not sure where exactly you could source them, but I know they are out there so I'm sure Googling will get you what you need. The UV/purple lights look sweet. My only question would be if you've warned your client that keeping the UV lights on too much might cause some discoloration of any paint features (including on figures)...? The light in the nose looks great. Can't wait to see this all finished up. |
10-16-2012, 06:44 PM | #8 |
I love ROSS!!!
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Southern Cali
Posts: 6,831
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Looking cool ...
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10-16-2012, 09:07 PM | #9 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: philippines
Posts: 340
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your in a roll sir, one tank after another,very in demand!
sorry for asking this but i cant seem to get the idea about that gattling gun effect,most of the lighted portion are on the area that shouldn't be lighted, they are supposed to be at the tip of the guns..am i right?unless it was intentional.Using translucent plastic like that will emit low-light at its end sometimes nothing at all, not like fiber optic wires.well..its not done yet, i maybe wrong. anyway, don't mind me..the tank is looking great with those lights.the purple light is cool too.are you going to repaint the whole tank or just some portions and retain its original color? keep it up sir! |
10-16-2012, 09:16 PM | #10 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Huntington Beach CA
Posts: 706
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I think the lighting in the back of the gun makes it appear the gun is in a charge mode until ready to release the energon. I wouldnt change a thing.
In regards to the UV discoloration, I dont think the lights would be on for more then a few moments anyway just to show off the awesome so it shouldnt really be an issue. The black light affect is absolutely PERFECT !!!
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