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08-03-2018, 02:45 AM | #1 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
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Maybe this has been done before, but doing some tests, sharing the results, looking for additional ideas...
Test1: -One falcon, in naturally unbalanced posed, sans beret -one flat thin acrylic surface as stage -two gi joe screws, heads cut off easily with pliers, and jammed into falcon foot peg sockets -four small earth magnets from hobby lobby, 2 at each foot, placed at underside of each foot. -one poor but strong 25th anniversary stinger driver for further imbalance Results1: -Falcon figure holds steady, does not fall over; actually stayed steady with magnets at only one foot. -flat foot contact not required -stinger driver held strong, despite missing a leg... Implications1: -alternate for more dynamic action pose photos without stands or tac -other? Additional testing -thicker stage base -bigger magnets (magnets shown ng for spice tray riser desired for use) -screw bit removal Exhibit1 20180803_010413 by J Perez, on Flickr Exhibit2 With stage overlay (fancy paper board) 20180803_010610 by J Perez, on Flickr More tests to come, after getting more magnets... |
08-03-2018, 10:45 AM | #2 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: sitting in my tin can far above the world
Posts: 3,939
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Very interesting. This is a great idea.
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08-03-2018, 08:41 PM | #3 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
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Test2:
-used a shorter cut screw into foot for flush foot bearing -3 small magnets to one foot -no acrylic barrier: mag mat on open steel grill -flat magnetic mat (for house ceiling mounted vent) to hold earth magnets up in place -more unbalanced but ideal goal pose 2018-08-03_07-19-42 by J Perez, on Flickr Results2: -not strong enough for all poses, still need to balance figure somewhat -magnetic mat solves problem of holding earth magnetsbup in place -stays upright in position not possible by itself, holds position with duration, but can fall over if moved or nudged wrong, when in dynamic pose Next2: -try bigger magnets, maybe wider and thinner |
08-03-2018, 09:29 PM | #4 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
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Semi extreme testing for falling backwards due to backpack, magnets at one foot. Relies on strength of foot ball joint
20180803_201913 by J Perez, on Flickr
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HissHissFangFan(g) Flickr | Facebook GI JOE: T13 O13//1982 1983-? | COBRA: O13//1982 1983 1984 1985-? Last edited by HissHissFangFan; 08-03-2018 at 09:31 PM.. |
08-05-2018, 05:10 AM | #5 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
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First batch of studies done, and I’ve moved to the end of phase one today. Though it took all day, things came together fairly quickly with only minor problems.
8/5/2018: The procedure below is a first pass effort. Some kinks and alternatives still need to be worked out. The goal was to display/photograph figures organized on one of those 2 or 3 tier spice rack organizers found at most stores, to stay standing without action figure stands. The more ambitious goal was to actual be able to pose the figures without figure stands on the rack. 20180805_020150 by J Perez, on Flickr Studio_20180805_011045 by J Perez, on Flickr My rack was this 3-tier bamboo beauty bought at Walmart years ago. I believe they still sell it in stores, but can also be found online: https://www.walmart.com/ip/MonogramO...case/774277416. Additional materials: Lowes: (1) 3 pack of Magnetic Vent Covers, 15”x8” (found near the plumbing and HVAC sections) Hobby Lobby: (1) 12pc 0.33” diameter power strength craft magnets (2) 6pc 0.50” diameter power strength craft magnets (1) 5-pack 1/8”x3/16”x24” bass wood strips Other: (1) set of 1/8” thick poker chips (other alternative flat rigid filler material) Flat black hobby paint and brush, exacto knife and steel straight edge ruler (preferable at least 15”) A bunch of extra gi joe figure back//leg screws, one or two for each figure to be displayed Pic of some the materials for shopping reference: 20180805_014132 by J Perez, on Flickr Pic of the stand, without magnet covers: 20180805_013240 by J Perez, on Flickr Procedure: -Cut the magnet covers to size of each tier (note: the tiers are about the same length, but different widths on mine, so make sure to measure each tier) -Cut bass wood strips to long lengths equal to tier lengths: for front and back edge. Paint front edge of front edge piece black. These strips are just to keep the back edge of the mag mat flat looking, and also to hide fillers and magnets below mag mat. So these aren’t necessarily needed, but they’re not too expensive, and help clean things up. -Magnet Warning: be careful with the magnets, especially when dealing with a large bunch of them at once. They are surprising strong, and may suddenly pull away and snap to others—we can cause fingerly damage! I suggest playing around the one or two to get a sense of the behavior of the bad boys. And when removing or placing, handle one at a time, always keep a firm grim—all the way until the piece is flat to its surface (don’t let the piece snap into place, which it will if you don’t hold on). -At each intended figure foot plant, locate a magnet couple, with one large mag piece top and one small piece directly below at underside of rack. The underside magnet keeps the topside magnet from sliding around after the mag mat covers it all, and adds extra strength below figure feet. You can probably use large mag pieces above and below, but the smaller ones are cheaper and are effective enough. Back side of stand, magnet configuration: 20180805_013554 by J Perez, on Flickr -Add poker chips as filler between the wood strips and topside magnets for mag mat bearing. The entire area need not be filled—the mag mat spans over gaps fairly well. Also, in using the magnets to balance the figures, a floor no longer needs to be completely rigid and flat to keep figures standing. You can use any type of alternate filler stuff in lieu of the poker chips—they were just handy, nice and flat and rigid, and the right thickness. -Add the mag mat covers to each tier, and the display is ready to go. Now for the figures… -For each figure to be displayed, take the loose/extra figure screws, and cut the screw head off with pliers, one or two threads below the head (I’m still in trial-n-error on these screw lengths at this point). The cut end should also be trimmed with scissors to shorten the peg. -Jam that cut screw into the figure’s peg hole. Flush to the sole seems to work best if possible. Note: see next step about removal! -Warning: I haven’t found the best way to remove these screw pegs from the foot, but they do come out. I heat up the foot with a blow dryer to soften it up, then either pry the peg out or use a real large magnet clump to pull it out [need to study further] Other notes: -The procedure is best for 25th up to 30th modern figures. Some of the newer 50th and Retaliation figures don’t work as well—they drilled the foot peg holes way in the back of the foot heel, so balancing from falling backwards is a challenge (best to find ways to make the figure want to tip forward). And for that newer ball joint construction, they didn’t drill that peg hole deep enough [Need to study further] -The procedure works best for modern figures—the screw diameter is a good match for those pegs. -For vintage o-ring figures, I haven’t figured out the best procedure—the screw diameter is way too small for the foot peg hole. Hobby Lobby also sells these tiny 0.125” strong magnet pegs. They fit into the vintage figure foot holes, are just a bit too small and shallow for a snug fit—so other methods of temporarily securing them to the foot are needed [need to study further: cheap glue that’s easy to remove?, poster tack?, other screw size alternatives?] -The tiny 0.125” strong magnets do fit well in Mattel DCUC action figure. Mileage will vary with Hasbro 6” Marvel or Star Wars, as foot hole depths and diameters seem to vary all over the place [need to study further] -The tiny 0.125” strong magnets are too big in diameter for the modern joes. You might be able to fit it in if you heat the foot with a blowdryer to soften, but you might get a distorted swollen foot look. Any feedback, suggestions, corrections welcome. This post will be updated when relevent. |
08-05-2018, 03:14 PM | #6 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
|
A few more shots of the display with stands
For the shot below, I had to shift the background below and behind the display rack, which required shifting and lifting the rack. Figures didn't fall over and held post Studio_20180805_140934 by J Perez, on Flickr For shot below, Test Falcon stands free without magnets and screws, Stinger driver uses magnets and screws, and it just having a bloody good time with these tests. 20180805_135859 by J Perez, on Flickr |
08-05-2018, 05:57 PM | #7 |
A Makeupless Clown
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,282
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This is a nice project. Thanks for sharing. As an alternative to screws, could small ball bearings and hot glue be a viable option for you? It would make removal easier, but might not be enough metal for the magnets to hold.
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08-05-2018, 06:11 PM | #8 |
Christian Soldier
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,255
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What head is on that stalker all the way on the left?
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08-05-2018, 06:13 PM | #9 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
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I like this idea. Lowes is down the street, I'll see what they have. Thanks for the suggestion.
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08-05-2018, 06:34 PM | #10 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Illinois
Posts: 4,229
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I am loving this idea. Can you tae and post a pic of the screws in the foot pegholes? Thanks for all of your hard work.
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