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07-03-2021, 01:57 PM | #51 |
A Makeupless Clown
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,244
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Quote:
I'll see if I can find pictures but it won't be today.
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07-03-2021, 06:13 PM | #52 |
dreadnok
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: New Castle, Delaware
Posts: 1,385
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I noticed on my Stalker that his arms don't go all the way down which annoys the hell out of me. Cant put him in as many poses and he cant hold his gun with both hands because of it.
Has anyone experimented with dremeling in the sides a little bit, like underneath his arm pits? Probably would need a grove going straight up and down like on the other modern Joes. Was wondering if any one has tried this or just how dremeling the figure in general turns out - like does it turn out fine or does it damage the figure too much?
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07-03-2021, 07:33 PM | #53 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
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Quote:
I noticed on my Stalker that his arms don't go all the way down which annoys the hell out of me. Cant put him in as many poses and he cant hold his gun with both hands because of it.
Has anyone experimented with dremeling in the sides a little bit, like underneath his arm pits? Probably would need a grove going straight up and down like on the other modern Joes. Was wondering if any one has tried this or just how dremeling the figure in general turns out - like does it turn out fine or does it damage the figure too much? On all pictures of Retro Stalker//OG13 I shown up to this point (this thread and GI Joe O13 by HHFF), all have varying degrees of the mod. On earlier pics I was a little shy about how much to cut, and than later kept pushing for more cut--especially to better fit the Zap//SF harness. 20210703_180236 by HissHissFangFang, on Flickr Above is my Zap (left) along with a new Stalker I'm prepping for ??? today. I carved out a curved section behind the front pecs, cutting as deep as needed for fit--the front pecs will hide anything behind it from view, especially when arm is down. I use a standard exacto knife, this soft plastic carves like hard butter. I wouldn't recommend dremelling--this plastic seems to bruise easily and you'll likely get a rough and white finish that won't sand down easily (may need to do multiple sand apps changing the grit to finer grit each iteration, then felt rub). With a knife, you can get a clean smooth cut (or smooth enough). Also you don't need to heat the plastic or anything. The plastic becomes too soft and doesn't cut as nicely. Finally, I recommend heating up and prying off the arm as shown. This made it a lot easier to work with the area to be cut. When I found out the arms pop out easily, that's when I got bolder in the depth of cut. 20210703_180018 by HissHissFangFang, on Flickr Above is a comparison view from the front, to show how the pecs hide the area behind. You'll also notice a bit on the unmodified version that sticks out unnecessarily instead of caving in. I feel that bit was making the torso look wider than it needed to be (already pretty wide). The thing to watch out for is how the finished work looks up against the side top of the lower torso. 20210703_180501 by HissHissFangFang, on Flickr The last thing is that the area being cut is all solid soft plastic and there is no joint thru the side--different from the previous modern molds. When I first did this, I was worried I'd be shaving down thin hollow parts to nothing, but it's all solid through here. |
07-03-2021, 09:23 PM | #54 |
dreadnok
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: New Castle, Delaware
Posts: 1,385
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HissHissFangFang thanks man, all that info really helps me out a lot! So as long as I warm it up in some hot water the arms should pop right out at the shoulder then?
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07-03-2021, 09:33 PM | #55 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
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Quote:
It should. Check put 46 Zone's earlier post about that (how hot, how long). Me, I use a hair dryer little under a minute, rotating the pieces as she blows, twisting the lower torso halfway to get a gap for direct heat air closer to the inside of the upper torso. |
07-03-2021, 11:32 PM | #56 |
A Makeupless Clown
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,244
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OK, I lied. I found some time to dig through photos this evening. Here's what I have in terms of pictures from when I cracked the lower torsos with my bench vise to steal the t-bars:
And here's why I stole the t-bars:
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Torso Adapters and Alternate Neck Pegs for MTF and BFS Figures Reproduction Vehicle Parts 3d-Printed Parts Gallery My BST Thread | My Feedback Thread | My Shapeways 3d Print Shop (1/18 scale creations) |
07-03-2021, 11:37 PM | #57 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
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Fascinating...
[I feel so Qyburn] That's a whole lot of seam to conquer. But nice to know how deep those seams are.
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HissHissFangFan(g) Flickr | Facebook GI JOE: T13 O13//1982 1983-? | COBRA: O13//1982 1983 1984 1985-? Last edited by HissHissFangFan; 07-03-2021 at 11:40 PM.. |
07-27-2021, 11:24 PM | #58 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 14,798
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The Retro Hiss Driver from Vietnam is different than the Chinese Retro Hiss Driver:
The T-bar is plastic. Here is a review of how it makes the figure perform: https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...ml#post5435821
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07-28-2021, 03:44 PM | #59 |
Christian Soldier
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,238
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That might be the only reason I’d have to buy one of these!
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07-28-2021, 04:31 PM | #60 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 14,798
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That is why I got this figure. Just to make a pic of a sham repack to show how awesome this line could have been.
My Retro CT is still disassembled, but for sale if there are any takers!!! hahahaha.
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