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02-21-2021, 02:00 PM | #1 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: NY
Posts: 383
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While I wait for my Angelforge, Vortious Customs and the second half of my Marauder Gun Runners orders, I found a nice lot of spare Joe parts from eBay. One of them being an amazing lot of jacket vests, combat vests and harnesses. So far, I've been able to cobble together a proto-figure. Not terrible by any stretch of the imagination, but I had a couple of questions, if you don't mind:
1. What's the best way to get vests onto a figure you're making? With this proto-figure, it's in pieces so while I could slip it on easier without the arms, getting them arms into the torso piece proved difficult. I tried the vests on my Boss fight Flash Gordon lunchbox figure. It was doable but difficult as I was worried I was gonna snap an arm joint while doing it. 2. I've seen some of the tutorial links on the forums about priming. Some use a clear primer while others use a gray or white primer. I know everyone has their preference, but for a starter like me, what would you recommend? 3. Once you've assembled all the parts for your figure, how do you keep it together? Do you use glue, rubber cement? 4. I've seen some people talk about using a sealer after they've done painting their customs. Is this a necessary step? Thanks, everyone! |
02-21-2021, 04:11 PM | #2 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 14,835
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1. Most Joe and MTF vests and harnesses can fit on the figures without removing the arms. You may have to remove the head though. If you feel the harness will stretch too much, you can always heat up the harness by dropping it in hot water for 30-35 seconds. I put a coffee mug of water for 3 min to get it hot.
While the harness is hot, slowly stretch it onto the figure. You can do this with belts, but you may need to remove the legs first. 2. I use Vallejo white primer if I'm going to be using a bright color. If I'm painting a dark color, I don't use any primer as it tends to cover well enough for me. Just make sure your paint/primer is acrylic and not enamel. Enamel will not dry properly and make your figure really sticky to touch, even after you let it sit a day. 3. I use the super glue from the hobby shop. Just make sure the glue doesn't spill onto the shoulder discs or trunk peg. It may glue them in place. You will snap the shoulder stalks when you try to move it. I know it sounds like a no-brainer, but I've done it before. 4. I use Vallejo Matte Varnish after painting as it tends to add that "plastic" shine to the figure again. Of course, some will have other strategies, but these work for me.
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02-21-2021, 04:12 PM | #3 |
A Cimmerian
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Mountain of Power
Posts: 11,063
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Quote:
While I wait for my Angelforge, Vortious Customs and the second half of my Marauder Gun Runners orders, I found a nice lot of spare Joe parts from eBay. One of them being an amazing lot of jacket vests, combat vests and harnesses. So far, I've been able to cobble together a proto-figure. Not terrible by any stretch of the imagination, but I had a couple of questions, if you don't mind:
1. What's the best way to get vests onto a figure you're making? With this proto-figure, it's in pieces so while I could slip it on easier without the arms, getting them arms into the torso piece proved difficult. I tried the vests on my Boss fight Flash Gordon lunchbox figure. It was doable but difficult as I was worried I was gonna snap an arm joint while doing it. 2. I've seen some of the tutorial links on the forums about priming. Some use a clear primer while others use a gray or white primer. I know everyone has their preference, but for a starter like me, what would you recommend? 3. Once you've assembled all the parts for your figure, how do you keep it together? Do you use glue, rubber cement? 4. I've seen some people talk about using a sealer after they've done painting their customs. Is this a necessary step? Thanks, everyone! 2) I don’t always prime, but it depends on the color. A clear primer seems like a waste of time to me. Gray or white of necessary, and honestly, it can’t hurt. Cleaning figures is important, too- just warm water and Dawn and a light scrub. 3) need you to be more specific here- I glue torsos back together with gorilla glue or BSI. Typically would not glue anything else 4) depends on the paint and how much you intend to handle it, but again, can’t hurt. Be mindful of sealers as some can affect color (matte, gloss, etc)
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AxonRey’s Servicable Customs (perpetually under construction): http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...masterhub.html Customizer’s Water Cooler (All Purpose Custom Talk): http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ml#post5316347 BST: https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...rey-b-s-t.html Last edited by AxonRey; 02-21-2021 at 04:21 PM.. |
02-21-2021, 04:44 PM | #4 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 505
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Quote:
While I wait for my Angelforge, Vortious Customs and the second half of my Marauder Gun Runners orders, I found a nice lot of spare Joe parts from eBay. One of them being an amazing lot of jacket vests, combat vests and harnesses. So far, I've been able to cobble together a proto-figure. Not terrible by any stretch of the imagination, but I had a couple of questions, if you don't mind:
1. What's the best way to get vests onto a figure you're making? With this proto-figure, it's in pieces so while I could slip it on easier without the arms, getting them arms into the torso piece proved difficult. I tried the vests on my Boss fight Flash Gordon lunchbox figure. It was doable but difficult as I was worried I was gonna snap an arm joint while doing it. 2. I've seen some of the tutorial links on the forums about priming. Some use a clear primer while others use a gray or white primer. I know everyone has their preference, but for a starter like me, what would you recommend? 3. Once you've assembled all the parts for your figure, how do you keep it together? Do you use glue, rubber cement? 4. I've seen some people talk about using a sealer after they've done painting their customs. Is this a necessary step? Thanks, everyone! Some vests fasten only on one side. Forst, remove the head. Raise the arm on whichever side of the body corresponds to the side of the vest that does not open/fasten. Lower the vest so that the raised arm is aligned to slide through the arm hole and the neck will feed through its respective opening. Depending on the size of body vs the size the vest accommodates, it may take some wriggling and work. Once the vest is on, fasten the open side. Some vests, as is the case with the POC Firefly and others, the vest opens/fastens on both sides. These are easiest. Pop off the head, lower the vest, fasten the vest. If you've painted the figure any of these methods will require additional care and finesse to avoid accidental damage to the paint. If the figure is still in pieces, you can still manipulate it as described above while applying enough pressure to the torso to keep it together while you slide on the vest and once it's on it will actually help hold the figure together if it is a Joe or MTF. If it's a BFS figure, you can just pull the arms off the torso and reinsert after you put on the vest. that actually segues into your other questions. 2. There is no single correct answer here. Different people use different methods and are able to accomplish awesome-looking work. My advice, avoid enamel paints or primers. Those paints do not bond well and react with the plastics the figures are made of and never fully cure, staying tacky and sticky. Testers model masters acrylic has been discontinued but you can still find them on ebay. Plenty of other options though: The Army Painter, Tamiya, Citadel, Revell, Vallejo. The Army Painter Warpaints has a brush-on primer (WP1472) that I've come to prefer, it's gray. The best color primer to use can depend on what color you will be painting over it with but I'm not the best to ask about that part, someone else would have better input for that. 3. This is another question that isnt restricted to any one correct answer. My preference for all is Gorilla super glue gel. The gel is easier to control and isnt runny like liquid. In addition to the regular bottle, the same product is offered in a fine-tip for better application control. You can better apply to areas with limited room. 4. With the paints I mentioned above, sealers really aren't necessary. The high-quality paints tend to be plenty durable. If you are shaving down joints or areas that will be prone to rubbing, it will help. I've found that clear nail polish can help with trouble spots. You can get gloss or matte depending on your needs. Hope this helps. |
02-21-2021, 10:45 PM | #5 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: NY
Posts: 383
|
There's been a lot of helpful hints here. Thank you all so much! I feel better about the vests, about priming and whether or not sealing is necessary.
I'm nervous about glue, though. I'm so inexperienced with it. In fact, it takes me back to 1995 when I had a super articulated Spider-Man figure from the animated series. The torso split and I tried to superglue it together. I got it so that it held in place, but there was always this hardened glob of superglue on the seam of the upper shoulder and I could never get it smooth. It always looked like it was superglued back together. |
02-21-2021, 11:02 PM | #6 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 406
|
With glue, sometimes I'll just squirt some onto paper or cardboard or whatsever handy, and then use a toothpick to spread it on to the parts. Especially with 3.75 figures being so small.
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02-21-2021, 11:11 PM | #7 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 505
|
Quote:
There's been a lot of helpful hints here. Thank you all so much! I feel better about the vests, about priming and whether or not sealing is necessary.
I'm nervous about glue, though. I'm so inexperienced with it. In fact, it takes me back to 1995 when I had a super articulated Spider-Man figure from the animated series. The torso split and I tried to superglue it together. I got it so that it held in place, but there was always this hardened glob of superglue on the seam of the upper shoulder and I could never get it smooth. It always looked like it was superglued back together. |
02-22-2021, 02:43 AM | #8 |
Extensive Enterprises Rep
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3,976
|
^ What these guys said, haha. But seriously the advice they gave is spot on. Hopefully you have fun making customs and welcome to the community
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FB link: https://m.facebook.com/KR-Customs-10...?ref=bookmarks |
02-23-2021, 10:55 PM | #9 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: NY
Posts: 383
|
Got another one...this one concerns Marauder figures.
So I've been looking at the "rolled up sleeves" forearms and for what I have in mind, these are perfect. I also like the Marauder torsos, so knowing you can plug them into the arms is a plus. The only thing I'm kind of iffy about is the colored bands at the wrists of any short sleeve or rolled up sleeved figures. Do these come off? If they don't, has anyone tried to remove them? If so, how'd that go? |
02-26-2021, 12:16 AM | #10 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: NY
Posts: 383
|
I got my Marauder order in the mail today. First off, I love the construction of the figure! I got a headless red T-shirt with black jeans figure and popping it from the waist is easy. I can remove the head, lower arms, hands and legs easily. I haven't tried the torso. I don't know if I want to fiddle with that. I also found the lunch box Flash Gordon's hands will fit on a Marauder figure, but not necessarily vice versa.
I'm still curious how to get rid of the black bands around the Marauder figure's wrists. |
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