[dbritt]

You mean the top ball that connects to the head, not the ball on the torso above the collarbone, right?

[dbritt]

Well, this was a real bonehead move on my part. For some reason, the neck balls in the collar are different sizes on Scarlett and the SB. So it was never going to work anyway. I managed to get the neck back on Scarlett (which was fodder) but now I can't get the neck back on SB, which is my only one. I've tried gripping the ball and pushing down, putting a paintbrush end in and pushing it down, putting it on backward and twisting it on. Nothing works. The standup collar provides a very narrow space to work, so the hot neck part just mushrooms out with any force. I'm at a loss, boys.

[firmpulse]

Quote:

Originally Posted by THEDARKONE508

yeah they're like panel lines, i was going to do a wash and line them like this:

dude mentions it as an aside for like a few seconds but it's been the most helpful panel lining trick i've ever seen. i've done it before on figures.

but this time around i am looking for something thinner to get into these super tiny web lines where if i were to wipe off excess i wont completely wipe the paint in them away either.

I used Citadel Nun Oil shade for that Destroyer. In fact it's my go to wash. Some things to keep in mind. It WILL NOT stick to bare plastic. It just pools up. It has to be applied to a painted surface or the surface prepped with Matte Top Coat. Once it dries it's impossible to remove. HOWEVER "My Pet's Friend" stain an odor remover (a LA's Totally Awesome product) will break it down and remove it in seconds. The best part is if it's applied to a painted surface it won't hurt the paint. Get it here:
https://www.amazon.com/My-Pets-Frien...s=120950744011

You HAVE to let this stuff dry well. It takes some practice to use so that you don't get "tiding". Soak up any pooled areas with a brush.

[THEDARKONE508]

i think we looked at panel lines and lost track of the question. (even i did)

Quote:

Originally Posted by THEDARKONE508

i have an o-ring spiderman i am going to be painting pretty soon. i wanted to try the thinnest paint i could possibly use, and while looking into panel lining i found acrylic inks - then i looked into it a little more with my usual minipainting channels.

and while these work pretty great for miniatures - has anyone used them on their customs? im not worried at all about paint rubbing on joints, im more concerned with it being thin enough to get into super tiny webbing lines. does it cure like paint? like, it wont rub off if i touch it?

i kind of mixed everything up and asked both about acrylic inks and how it does on panel lining and if anyone's got any experience with acrylic inks. im pretty comfortable with panel lines, but i havent used acrylic inks on a custom before.

i know i can just see for myself since im already about 10 bucks into them; but before i go crazy i was looking for some insight since the only insight with them im getting is from unarticulated miniatures rather than action figures.

[firmpulse]

Quote:

Originally Posted by THEDARKONE508

i think we looked at panel lines and lost track of the question. (even i did)

Yyyyyyyep. Looks like that's what happened. I need little to no help becoming tangential.

I have no experience with acrylic inks.

[THEDARKONE508]

panel lining and washes are fun though. i have three spray bottles in the garage with super watered down brown, green, and black. i hose everything down with them that needs it from above.

i used the panel lining instruction from the video i shared to do some lines in the face of my phantom starkiller.

but side to the side, i keep saying "panel lines" when asking about acrylic inks and holy shit man, i wish i would just say "i want to use acrylic paints on this custom, has anyone used them before?" but i dont know why i am having a stroke instead.

[AxonRey]

Hey guys,

As a Testors MM widower, I’ve gone through a bevy of different brands with varying results-Citadel, Army Painter, Vallejo, Tamiya- I’m finally sold on Monument Hobbies. Great coverage, good natural durability and adhesion. Their white is fantastic.

So just for anyone still lamenting the loss of Model Masters, that’s where I’m at

[ozzie92]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AxonRey

Hey guys,

As a Testors MM widower, I?ve gone through a bevy of different brands with varying results-Citadel, Army Painter, Vallejo, Tamiya- I?m finally sold on Monument Hobbies. Great coverage, good natural durability and adhesion. Their white is fantastic.

So just for anyone still lamenting the loss of Model Masters, that?s where I?m at

Although I am just about out of the game, that is really good to know for Testors MM addicts, like myself.

[THEDARKONE508]

that's good to hear. i wish i wasnt in the spot to have to go with craft paint or no paint. it's cheap enough that i should jump into proacryl and donate my craft paints (it was sounding like the spiritual successor to mm).

i hate rustoleum; and i hate that they bought testors and ran it to the ground. i've opened brand new rustoleum spray cans and gotten fuzzy chunks all over a project i spent weeks sanding down - notj ust primers but regular spray paint too. krylon has paired down all their displays in all the stores around me so i HAVE to buy rustoleum shit.


another plus is that a proacryl bottle is supposedly the same thickness as a craft paint bottle, so if you're like me and made a paint holder the pro acryl will fit.

[firmpulse]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AxonRey

...As a Testors MM widower, I?ve gone through a bevy of different brands with varying results-Citadel, Army Painter, Vallejo, Tamiya- I?m finally sold on Monument Hobbies. Great coverage, good natural durability and adhesion. Their white is fantastic.

So just for anyone still lamenting the loss of Model Masters, that?s where I?m at

Quote:

Originally Posted by ozzie92

Although I am just about out of the game, that is really good to know for Testors MM addicts, like myself.

Cool. I will check them out. I just got onto ProAcryl and am totally smitten.