[firmpulse]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ako Roshi

Excellent work!

I'm going to have to try this. I want to use the SW X-wing helmet for a project, but that visor will not take paint....

I followed this method to a tee. The one detail he sort of skims over is you need to almost soak the piece in Alcohol. Or just soak a rag and slather it on. But man does it ever work. I jumped up and was fist pumping in the backyard while my wife watched me from the kitchen window, smiling and sipping coffee. LOL

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ako Roshi

I just ran out of my Krylon Matte Finish that I have been using to "seal" my work after painting. It's been ok and I really don't have any complaints, but I'm curious what you all are using and/or recommend. In short, is there something else I should be using?

I'm super late with this response but I use Mr Super Clear Matte on everything. It's expensive but damn near impossible to mess up and the results are stellar. It goes on in an ultra-fine mist. Be warned. Once you use this you WILL be spoiled.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/crafts-ho...ray/p/81021110

[Hard-er Master]

Quote:

Originally Posted by firmpulse

I followed this method to a tee. The one detail he sort of skims over is you need to almost soak the piece in Alcohol. Or just soak a rag and slather it on. But man does it ever work. I jumped up and was fist pumping in the backyard while my wife watched me from the kitchen window, smiling and sipping coffee. LOL

Crafts Man does it again!

HM

[firmpulse]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hard-er Master

Crafts Man does it again!

HM

To quote Sataninjaku,"CrafsMan is a national treasure."

I only found out about him 6 months ago. Since that time I've watched most of his vids.

[AxonRey]

So, in summary, light torching, alcohol rub down, and paint?

[sisco]

Wonder what the actual temp the plastic needs to hit for this method and if a small toaster oven would provide easier to control temps to anneal the plastic than the torch. Like how sculpey has to hit 275 F.

[Hard-er Master]

Someone mentioned using Classified Quick Kick's backpack for a V1 Jinx backpack; a quick dye bath, and it works great:


A little paint added for detailing:


Hope this helps!

HM

[SlicesCustoms]

Quote:

Originally Posted by sisco

Wonder what the actual temp the plastic needs to hit for this method and if a small toaster oven would provide easier to control temps to anneal the plastic than the torch. Like how sculpey has to hit 275 F.

The warm water method is silly as can be and a mess.

15 seconds in front of a warmer and youre good to go to remove almost all of your plastic arm leg neck or part.

You heard it here first.

[AxonRey]

Quote:

Originally Posted by SlicesCustoms

The warm water method is silly as can be and a mess.

15 seconds in front of a warmer and youre good to go to remove almost all of your plastic arm leg neck or part.

You heard it here first.

What are you talking about, Slice?

[AxonRey]

Also, do you think one of those grill/candle lighters would work, or do they not burn hot enough?

[firmpulse]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AxonRey

So, in summary, light torching, alcohol rub down, and paint?

Quote:

Originally Posted by sisco

Wonder what the actual temp the plastic needs to hit for this method and if a small toaster oven would provide easier to control temps to anneal the plastic than the torch. Like how sculpey has to hit 275 F.

I think it has something to do with being exposed to an actual flame. While I was researching it I watched a video from a plastic cup production line. They dropped the cups through a ring of fire, then passed through an alcohol bath then onto tampo printing.