[Matt82]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kuh_rupht

Also I saw a lot of comments about eyes being frustrating. They are and can be a huge pain in the ass some days. All I can recommend is start removing factors that make it more difficult. Brush size too large, paint too thick, can’t see the area well enough. Doing eyes set me back about $120 in investments but I’m glad I did it. If you’re on the fence about the desk light/magnifier or getting a 000 brush size, if you buy them and practice you will see an improvement. I found a head that I painted close to three years ago when I got into customizing and I recently painted the same character (different head sculpt) and the results are night and day. I plan to post it in the next couple days showing both heads as a comparison.

Please do. A lot of posts on here have been helpful regarding eyes, but I'm still not at the point where I'm willing to really put the effort in. Maybe a good comparison shot of the results of continued practice will be enough encouragement for me. Also, your step by step process of applying paint to your brush is very detailed and helpful, thanks!

[ozzie92]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kuh_rupht

Probably the wrong type of glue, haha. I’ve tried a few different types (Krazy glue, hot glue, JB Weld, and a few others). All of them give me trouble. Here is an example of a situation that I always struggle with, say I cut the strap off a satchel from Marauder. Then if I want to glue the two ends together to make a loop it never sits right. I feel like I have to hold it on place for 5 minutes or it becomes “crusty” after it dries and looks like shit. Hot glue sometimes works but I prefer hot glue in areas I still want flexibility (filling joints, head sockets, foot pegs).




I may have to try insta-cure; that’s one I don’t think I’ve tried yet.

The 0.005 micron marker works well depending on the situation. I used that method for about 18 months while I was practicing with the brush. I think it produces good results since it can hit small areas. My only issue with it was it would bleed with topcoat and can be rubbed off eventually. Not sure why someone would be rubbing the figure’s eyes, haha.

It took me a bit to get used to the light magnifier and it’s not for everyone. I definitely had to modify the way I held the brush because of the angles I had to hold the figure at to move around the device. I’m sure it’s like most things where once you get accustomed to it then you’re good. I’ll admit that it still gets in the way sometimes but it produces better results for me than anything else I’ve tried.

For the paint not drying to the brush in 3-5 seconds. This was one of the trickiest things I’ve had to deal with. It used to piss me off so much and I hated painting faces because of that reason. I’m sure people have different tips for this but here is what I did to resolve that issue for the majority of the time. I’ll try to be specific as possible since there are a lot of factors that could produce different results.

1. I use Vallejo acrylic paint and shake the hell out it it so it’s mixed really well. (Shake for 30-45 seconds).
2. Let the paint settle in the bottle for about a minute. (This helps reduces bubbles and back pressure)
3. I use 2-3 drops of paint and 1 drop of water (I purchased a bottle of eye drops, dumped out the solution, cleaned it, filled with tap water. This method gave me better control/consistency of my water ratio)
4. Mix the paint well with a toothpick or whatever else you have that will get the job done. (I do not use the brush to mix with)
5. With my 000 brush, I put a good amount of paint on the bottom 2/3rds of the brush. Then I test a few strokes on a scratch paper or finger nail.
6. I reload the paint and retest step 5. Both times I use a very light hand and what I’m trying to do is saturate the brush. (This causes the paint to flow down as you use it, same principal as using a ballpoint pen)
7. Reload a little more paint, dabbing just the tip of the brush on your scratch so you don’t get an initial glob of paint. Then I finally make contact with the figure.
8. Technique differs from person to person on how they apply the paint (black first, white first, start side closer to the nose and move out, side closer to the ear and move in) I don’t know how much any of that matters because to me if you can’t control the amount of paint or prevent it from drying on the brush, then it’s probably going to look fucked up no matter what technique you choose, haha.

Okay that was a lot and I didn’t plan for it to be that wordy. I just feel like I’ve watched so many tutorials and it’s difficult to find one that is detailed on the prep work. They usually start with “okay let’s paint this part first”. Hopefully someone finds this beneficial.

Thanks for taking the time!

So...I use Model Master dullcoat spray and haven’t had it affect my micron pen’d eyes. Then again, I avoid all eyes as much as possible, so...perhaps I’ve forgotten. I HAVE smeared them before (doesn’t dry very well), and that’s no fun.

I figured some paint thinning was involved, but your brush saturation method was new to me. ‘Preciate it!

[kuh_rupht]

No problem Oz but in all honesty, you’re way more of a pro than I am. You already know I’m a fan of your work and you’ve had multiple pieces place in contest. It’s always nice seeing what new concept you bring to the table.

Hopefully the tip I put out there helps someone. I personally wrote it because I wish it was something I learned early on instead of trial and error for as long as I did. I still have plenty of room to grow but I always appreciate hearing super detailed explanations on how people pull off the amazing shit they make.

I should also add for anyone that might get discouraged, in high school my worst class/grade was art. Specifically because I couldn’t paint for shit. It always bothered me that I struggled so much and it almost prevented me from trying customizing altogether.

[HissHissFangFan]

Eyes. Eyes aren't easy! But thanks to tips from this forum, I've gotten better at techniques for acceptable results. I first paint sclera, using my Vallejo light grey surface primer (I read somewhere that a pure white is not needed and can actually look unnatural, and I agree). The second step is hardest for me: waiting for enough time for that sclera to dry. Honestly, I can never wait which almost always botches my first pass.

Third step, applying the iris/pupil, I mostly use a micron pen 005, either black or sepia (brown). I got a 4-pack Figma set from Hobby Lobby specificaly for testing out eye application techniques, and works well. After the iris/pupil, I'll get the upper eyelid (a staple look for 1/18 modern Hasbro figures). Then clean up with an exacto knife. I'll thin the upper eyelid and clean up the bottom eyelid. Usually I'll do the lower eyelid first, and hope to get lucky in getting a bit of the iris dark color to spread a slight thin line at the bottom eyelid. Though we don't have lower eyelashes (I had to double check this in the mirror just now), we do have a nice shadowline down there. I slight line can also help to get a tougher slight squint to the eyes, and aid in eliminating the eyes having the upward stare look.

Sometimes I will go back to my old technique of using a slightly dulled wood toothpick for the iris (with watered down paint. Using the toothpick, you can start with a smaller iris with a few dabs, then eliminate the cross-eyed looked by added more dabs away from the nose while not getting too large on the iris. I'll usually test the paint and pick on a piece of paper or custom fodder lying about for the right paint consistency and pick sharpness. Also, I'll do some test dabs without paint on the actual figure head to make sure there are no suprises in the shape and mold (will also do these practice jabs if using Micron pen for final).

I final bit I do is use a dark flesh (PC1092 Nectar), and apply to the lower eyelids, and between eyebrows and upper eyelid. I sometimes also apply to other faces recesses (betwen eyebrows if mean furrows are sculpted, around nose and mouth, cheekbones if older figure). Its like a dark wash effect, but very subtle, like Hollywood makeup on men.

I actually find eyebrows to be more difficult to do than the eyes. I'm not set in a dedictated technique--micron pen, tootpick, small brush--it depends on how successful or stressful I was on my most recent figure. Maybe a topic for the future...

I have been using a small mounted magnifying glass for almost 2 years now, and recently bought a larger one from Hobby Lobby out of boredom. It definitely helps with eyes, eybrows and other small areas. The downside is that it unveils a larger world of fixes over the entire figure that you won't ever discover (unless you you take large HD photos with no backgrounds so all eyes are on the details of the figures).

Back to the eyes, other than the waiting time betwen sclera and iris, my second biggest issue is dealing with heads with painted flesh. Those heads are harder to clean up with an exacto knife for a finished look (for both eyes and eyebrows). You also have to deal with more factory applied paint around the eyes instead of nice clean bare mold. So instead of using the exacto knife, you repaint around the eyes for the clean look--which brings up my my nagging current issue: flesh paint.

FLESH PAINT:
All year I've wanted to clean up my flesh painting technique, and find the right paint to meet 4 criteria (3/4 ok):
1. I want a middle of the road tone, not as light as early 25th figures, maybe an MTF tone slightly lighter (maybe a mix so that it works for both).
2. I want to have a premix that I can store for a few years for constant cleanup of figures, with a mix of consistent tone I can use at any given time for the next few years or so.
3. I want a deep strong mix that requires little or no primer. Usually the paint will be applied to already flesh molded parts or factory flesh painted parts that don' match in tone.
4. I want a strong mix that requires little or no sealer finish. This requirement becomes less important if the requirements 1 to 3 are met. I just don't want a thick buildup of primer, paint, sealer, that almost inevitably chips or rubs, requiring a repaint (with 3 more additional layers) that requires a repaint of all flesh areas for tone matching of the new repaint.

Testors sort met items 3 and 4. However I've had to mix two different tones to get a nice blend (that I can never rematch for future touchup). Plus one or both jars (or a dedicated mix) always end up drying up faster than other jars (burnt sienna is another culprit). Further, with Testors bowing out of the business, I've already abandoned them for flesh color.

Vallejo had promise. I am still working a dedicated mix bottle, but it's hard to judge the right mix since it can be a totally different tone when first wet compared to when it's dry. A light primer helps it apply with ligher coats with a nice color, but Vallejo is not very durable I find. I've tried the Vallejo finishes, and I've also tried Futura Floor finish, then the Vallejo matte finish--still not durable as required in areas that are not joints but get lots of wear through contact.

I won't even bother with Citadel, with mix of issues with Testors and Vallejo above.

Tamiya paints seems to be my last strong option. My hobby store was out of stock last time I was there last month, will check again tomorrow (online prices were not even comparable to the hobby store prices).

Figuring this out was a goal of mine to start last Nov 2019, using GI Joe reduxes 1983 and beyond (mainly Flint, Lady Jaye, Falcon, Hawk, Tunnel Rat). After a few weeks, most have failed typical durability. I got frustrated, and turned to 1983 figures, 1984 Blowtorch and Ripcord--all/most of which didn't have to deal with any/much flesh.
Then jumped to Cobra 1983 redos (again no flesh). But I know I got to get back to the flesh painting situation.

Any suggestions and testimonials on this are greatly appreciated...

[SPECTER]

Im doing my first vehicle wash, honestly all my years doing customs and it was way too intimidating to even attempt.
I finally got a great vehicle with a poor paintjob for such a good price that I finally started it.

[biggs]

Question for the experts: What varnish do you use to seal the paint?

I made a note of Vallejo 26518 Matt Acrylic Varnish at some point, but can't remember who recommended it.

When i painted (soft plastic) miniatures years ago, i remember using Testors Dullcote, but had some troubles with it becoming tacky. I was a novice though, so i might've done something "wrong".

[axonrey]

Quote:

Originally Posted by biggs

Question for the experts: What varnish do you use to seal the paint?

I made a note of Vallejo 26518 Matt Acrylic Varnish at some point, but can't remember who recommended it.

When i painted (soft plastic) miniatures years ago, i remember using Testors Dullcote, but had some troubles with it becoming tacky. I was a novice though, so i might've done something "wrong".

I use the Vallejo one, but I also only use it to dull a gloss or over VAllejo paint.

I generally use Testors Model MAster that's pretty durable without an overcoat.

[biggs]

Quote:

Originally Posted by axonrey

I use the Vallejo one, but I also only use it to dull a gloss or over VAllejo paint.

I generally use Testors Model MAster that's pretty durable without an overcoat.

Thanks

Testors is going out of production though, right?

I'd be too scared of scratches to not applying a coat of some sort. But i'm really unsure of what to choose. Looking just at Vallejo, they have the acrylic resin varnish and a polyurethane varnish. Would any of them be okay to use with acrylic paints and action figures?

[46 Zone]

Quote:

Originally Posted by biggs

Thanks

Testors is going out of production though, right?

I'd be too scared of scratches to not applying a coat of some sort. But i'm really unsure of what to choose. Looking just at Vallejo, they have the acrylic resin varnish and a polyurethane varnish. Would any of them be okay to use with acrylic paints and action figures?

I use the Matte Vallajo Acrylic resin Varnish w/ all my figures. I feel it makes my painting look more like factory plastic. I have used the Glossy version of that for visors and goggles.

[biggs]

I think i'll go with the acrylic resin varnish then. Thank you for the inputs.