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09-09-2016, 06:17 PM | #11 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Cobra Island & Massachusetts
Posts: 6,378
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Sorry for the lack in response. Apparently I never checked back into this thread. When using the pvc cleaner I did the swab test 1st with only moderate success but it took to much time and my patience ran out. I then just submerged which turned a Ret Jinx into mush. As for Using Rit dye my go to method has been working pretty well. I use the powder stuff mixed with water an a small amount of acetone in a crock pot on low. (Do this outside as I am sure the fumes aren't all that good for you ) Also DO NOT USE YOUR WIFES CROCK POT OR YOUR SCREWED! Again harder plastics take longer than softer ones but as long as you are using darker color dyes it will eventually take. I will post a pic of a Night Vulture that I have done recently.
Just his torso and crotch were dyed. The rest are parts swaps and or painted.
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09-09-2016, 07:59 PM | #12 |
A Makeupless Clown
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,271
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Quote:
Sorry for the lack in response. Apparently I never checked back into this thread. When using the pvc cleaner I did the swab test 1st with only moderate success but it took to much time and my patience ran out. I then just submerged which turned a Ret Jinx into mush. As for Using Rit dye my go to method has been working pretty well. I use the powder stuff mixed with water an a small amount of acetone in a crock pot on low. (Do this outside as I am sure the fumes aren't all that good for you ) Also DO NOT USE YOUR WIFES CROCK POT OR YOUR SCREWED! Again harder plastics take longer than softer ones but as long as you are using darker color dyes it will eventually take. I will post a pic of a Night Vulture that I have done recently.
Just his torso and crotch were dyed. The rest are parts swaps and or painted. My hard plastics will rub some color off if rubbed across cardboard (specifically, a white USPS Priority box is my test piece). The softer plastics don't rub anything off for me, just the hard plastics - and among those they differ between 25th and 50th anniversary figures as to how much the dye will actually take vs slide right off (as shown earlier with the difference between 50th Spirit and 25th Duke). I'd like to do your method for whole-part coloration if it's effective/durable. The method I am trying for is more about partial part coloration (and hopefully stenciling, if I can find something that can withstand the Oatey cleaner to block it from certain areas when I swipe the dye mix across them) without fear of paint rub. So it's not really my main intention to color whole parts this way, ultimately.
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09-09-2016, 08:23 PM | #13 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Cobra Island & Massachusetts
Posts: 6,378
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To be honest I've never rubbed one off onto cardboard;) seriously though I have only had one issue with the bleed outs & it was on a 50th Storm Shadow. What happened was after dying him and letting him dry for 24hrs like I normally do I wanted to paint some of finer details on him. I noticed that after holding him while painting I noticed I had some dye on my fingers. It wasn't noticeably missing on the figure just some residue on my finger tips. I ended up using some matte clear on him and never had the issue again. I typically only dye if I need to change the whole pieces color mostly like a base coat then I can paint the finer details and not worry about paint chipping. It works especially well for joints, knees and most other parts that I want to still be able to move around. In Night Vulture's case I dyed a whole Blue DG Shipwreck I left him in the pot for about four days I just kept adding more mix as the pot got low. His arms ended up a bit darker than I wanted so I swapped them out for a pair from the con set.
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09-13-2016, 08:25 AM | #14 |
A Makeupless Clown
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,271
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Quote:
To be honest I've never rubbed one off onto cardboard;) seriously though I have only had one issue with the bleed outs & it was on a 50th Storm Shadow. What happened was after dying him and letting him dry for 24hrs like I normally do I wanted to paint some of finer details on him. I noticed that after holding him while painting I noticed I had some dye on my fingers. It wasn't noticeably missing on the figure just some residue on my finger tips. I ended up using some matte clear on him and never had the issue again. I typically only dye if I need to change the whole pieces color mostly like a base coat then I can paint the finer details and not worry about paint chipping. It works especially well for joints, knees and most other parts that I want to still be able to move around. In Night Vulture's case I dyed a whole Blue DG Shipwreck I left him in the pot for about four days I just kept adding more mix as the pot got low. His arms ended up a bit darker than I wanted so I swapped them out for a pair from the con set.
If I mailed some shoulder/elbow rings out to you, would you mind giving them a dye treatment with your method and mailing them back? I would like to test color durability and color matching and such without having to go buy a crock pot and make a complete dye station in case it turns out not to be viable for my use. Alternatively, do you still have the over-dyed DG Shippy arms (and are you willing to part with them)? I want to break some more eggs for this omelet.
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09-13-2016, 01:20 PM | #15 |
Filecard Maker
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,300
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My experience with dye was a disaster.
Tried dying a ROC Stormshadow...complete waste of time...I'm sticking with acrylic paints. |
11-16-2016, 12:55 AM | #16 |
A Makeupless Clown
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,271
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I ran a small brush-on dye test today. Here are the "before" images, showing everything that I will be testing in this run:
All but one of these particular pieces are donations, courtesy of MJjoe4life and MagicWazard (thanks, gents!): And these are some of my own parts I want to customize: I didn't get through most of these parts yet (I ran out of time before my kids started snooping around) but here are the results from the parts I tested on in that lot so far: The 3D printed material took the dye just fine, but due to the strand construction there was actually bleed-through to the other side of the part as you can see on the 55-gallon drum lid part. I stripped the paint off of Leatherneck's cap before I did the brush-on dye. I left the paint ON the Retaliation Joe Colton arms, and I think that ended up being detrimental, as the dye color has not overcome the paint. I noticed a similar problem when I did the 50th Spirit arms as well. All in all, the brush-on dye has worked flawlessly on each of these parts (no rub-off, good adhesion/color) on everything OTHER THAN the shoulder pin on the Colton arm and the leg pieces on Leatherneck. The shoulder pin's lack of success was not unexpected, but the leg pieces' issue I believe to be a result of another variable. In the first place, the dye I used this time around was a dried-up remnant in the bottom of a glass jar from my first dye test job a back in early September. (I wanted to see how it would work if I "revived" it.) This dried-up stuff had no stinky diesel odor at all, and the parts painted with it are likewise odorless (yay!). The only parts I had to mix new dye for were the leg pieces of Leatherneck because I ran out of the old stuff before I got to them. Those leg pieces are holding the dye, but they exhibit some minor rub-off. I don't think that's a coincidence, but it will take some time to make a new aired-out, dried-up batch of pigment from the dye so I won't be able to paint up the other leg pieces for comparison for a little while (possibly weeks). It takes a LONG time for the stink to go away, and I want to try to match the dried-out sample I used this time as closely as possible when I paint the other leg pieces so I can make a better judgement on whether or not that is a crucial difference just for odor, or if it also has bearing on the rub-off factor as well. For now, I can safely say that the use of the "old" dye did nothing to help the shoulder pin on the Colton arm. That plastic just won't hold the dye from this method so far. The only other thing I can think of to try to impact that is to do a hot solution dye bath for those bits so maybe I'll try that sometime down the line. If the weather cooperates tomorrow I might try adding fresh-mixed dye onto the HISS driver's hips in a clean spot to see if if has any rub issues that the "old" dye did not, even on the same piece. That may give a bit of insight to the properties of the "old" dye while I wait for another dried batch to be ready.
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11-16-2016, 11:51 AM | #17 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 92
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You also might want to try some fresh dye on a figure, and let it sit for a couple weeks, before doing the rub test...
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11-16-2016, 12:09 PM | #18 |
A Makeupless Clown
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,271
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I may try that again, but I did that in the first round with Duke's body. I waited a solid week on part of it before touching it and it still bled like a stuck pig. The way this method is *intended* to work, it should be stable as soon as it dries, which is a matter of seconds.
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11-17-2016, 08:13 PM | #19 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 92
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Sorry! I didn't read back through each of the posts, and missed that. Good luck with the experimenting!
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11-17-2016, 08:34 PM | #20 |
A Makeupless Clown
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,271
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No worries. I'm not sure I even mentioned it in earlier posts.
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