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12-21-2014, 05:36 AM | #1 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,064
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I’ve been asked for a while now about putting together a “How To” on my Tiger Stripe Camo Pattern so I finally got around to it… I hope that you all find this informative and it helps out with your own customs! I want to say thanks to Cloud Strife for setting me right in my initial attempts when I first tackled this pattern. I took critique and built upon the advice. By all means, this may not be the best way, but it works for me and is pretty tedious and time consuming… but the end product comes out nice.
Brushes: 10/0 Artists loft Vienna Liner Brush, Craft Smart Brushes 10/0, 5/0, 3/0, and 0 found at Michaels. Primer: I’ve used various primers with different results. I have had good luck with my local hobby shop brand in Black or Grey, but had to change since I moved and no longer have access to it. Tamiya is great as they offer two types of primers, one is a Fine Surface primer that won’t cover up small sculpted/cast details. One of the best primers I ever used was Formula P3, but I have not found it at my local hobby stores in a long time. However, both Tamiya and P3 are pricey! Especially Tamiya for the amount you get when compared to other options. I recently started using the Rustoleum 2X (R2X) Coverage primers and it works well, plus you get more for your money. The ONE complaint with any primer I have used is that certain soft plastics, typically the polyethylene, and wont dry leaving the surface feel tacky…even if you paint over it with acrylic paint. I did a test with the 25th Joe plastic web gear, which I believe is PVC, using the R2X and it fully dried. R2X does have a disclaimer that it will not adhere well to some soft plastics like the type that Lil’ Tykes Toys are made of. PRIMER UPDATE: June 21,2015 I recently picked up some Duplicolor Etch Primer, sold at Autozone or Advance Auto Parts, to try out as I had heard some pretty amazing things about it. It's intended use is for bare metal on automotive painting since it etches into the metal and creates an excellent adhesion bond for paint to stick to. I test sprayed a figure, to include the soft plastic, then waited for it to dry. I did absolutely no prep work to the figure regarding trimming joints or sanding. The primer dries rather quickly and is really durable if left to dry overnight. I then diluted some tamiya paint with windex and gave it a quick coat. The paint bonded really well with the primer and did not rub between the shoulder and elbow joints. I think the key factor was that the paint was diluted and not built up in the joint. Paints: Everyone has their favorite brand of paints, but I have used Tamiya, Testors Model Masters Acrylic TMMA, and Citadel Paints (CP) in all of my customs. I think each brand has pros and cons which Is why I don’t exclusively use one. I like TMMAs skin tones selection because it takes a lot of the guess work out of it. Tamiya NATO Green, Tamiya NATO Black, Tamiya Red Brown, and Citadel Kommando Khaki. (MGS Snake) Tamiya NATO Green, Tamiya Flat Black, Tamiya NATO Brown, and Citadel Kommando Khaki. (Modern TS) Or any variation of the four colors to match specific environments. Urban, Desert, etc… Thinners: I used to pay the $3 a bottle for Tamyia Thinner until the owner of the hobby store I used to shop at told me about Windex, since then I haven’t looked back! Again, it’s more for your money and has never affected paint application. I only use regular Windex though, not the fragrance versions… not sure if it would affect the paint, but just didn’t want to risk it. Experiment to find the right ratio for thinning you paints. I thin out the Khaki so it flows almost like ink when detailing the edges of the stripes. Primer Stage: Believe it or not, the color of primer chosen affects the overall colors painted over it and required number of coats for complete coverage without “caking” on layers of paint loosing small details on the figure or cast. I typically use a black primer for my green woodland or tiger stripe paint applications and a grey or white primer for desert/urban. Pattern: The Tiger stripe pattern typically consists of four colors. The base color is separated from the black and brown by the Khaki color. Now on to the paining... I mean painting. After priming, I lay down the base coat, in this case NATO Green, using the 0 brush. Then I use the 0 brush for the Kommando Khaki to line out where the black and brown will go. Use wider brush strokes if you want larger stripes. I try to maintain a 1/18th scale and tend to go with finer stripes and more detail which I’ll cover later. Using the 5/0 brush, I apply the Red Brown color around the Kommando Khaki. As I mentioned above, the khaki is supposed to keep the brown and black from touching the green. However, and this is just my preference, I will overlap the khaki in some places to get the varied widths in the pattern, then come back and line out the Khaki using my 10/0 liner brush. Next color stage is adding in the NATO Black using the 10/0 liner brush to the inside the Khaki to the torso in the first pic. I try to keep the black inside the khaki, except where I want it to flow into another stripe without entirely connecting the stripes. This keeps from overpowering the color balance with too much black. Lastly…Just like I mentioned above, I will come back and add final touches of khaki to line between black and green or black and brown as seen in the second torso pic. Adding the black.. Lining with Khaki Here’s a finished Desert Tiger Strip version so you can see the differences and how you can vary the color scheme for specific environments. Dullcoat: You can choose to spray a dullcoat/matte coat the figure if you'd like. I do with all my customs because it gives them a good uniform finish. I have used in the past Testors Dullcoat and Krylon Matte Finish. I have been using dull coat from The Army Painter as I heard it was top notch stuff... and it is, at $15 a can. Rustoleum has a 2X Coverage dullcoat I haven't tried yet, but if its anything like their 2X primer, it should be good to go. I give it a couple coats, lightly misting the figure from spraying about 10''-12'' away. SHORTCUT TIP, if you don't want to use the steps I did, you can save some time and paint green, then black, brown, and then finish off with khaki separating the colors and get the same results. I plan to do some Kryptek Mandrake/Nomad patterns next... stay tuned!
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12-21-2014, 11:40 AM | #2 |
Marauder Ruben
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,937
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Brother you are the man, thanks for your knowledge!
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12-21-2014, 01:32 PM | #3 |
H.A.T.E.
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pocatello, Idaho
Posts: 635
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Fantastic tutorial. Thank you!
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12-22-2014, 11:30 AM | #4 |
Snake Smasher!
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 4,965
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Sweet! That is awesome, bro!
-Todd
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12-22-2014, 11:39 AM | #5 |
Jungle Warfare Soldier
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 1,498
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Thats awesome knowledge Thanx.
Though do they still use this camo in modern day militairy???
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12-22-2014, 11:40 AM | #6 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 984
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awesome
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12-27-2014, 03:09 AM | #7 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,064
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Not US Forces...not officially at least.
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12-29-2014, 02:50 AM | #8 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: uk
Posts: 474
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Very cool i can see using this to do russian tiger stripe camo too
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01-09-2015, 01:30 AM | #9 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,064
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Absolutely! Good point, The technique and steps can easily be used for about ANY country's version of tiger stripe or similar camo pattern.
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01-09-2015, 02:33 AM | #10 |
80's Baby!
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Tampa
Posts: 2,050
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Bookmarked, saved and all that. Good ish!
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