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03-27-2011, 02:42 PM | #1 |
COBRA NAVAL AVIATION
Join Date: May 2010
Location: COBRA Aircraft Carrier "Tyranny Rising"
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Hey all, Unclassified displayed an interest in learning how to scratchbuild or fabricate in styrene plastic. I've finally got the time to begin a tutorial on the basics and will be building a Dreadnok fan boat step by step to show the techniques in action. I will do my best to supply all the specs and measurements as I go so if you want to build along you can. Feel free to post any questions as this journey begins and progresses...
The basics First off you need a basic place to work. This has to be a place that can get messy and won't be a big deal if you slip with a knife or cut too deeply with one. It can be as basic as a piece of cardboard over a kitchen table or a purpose built one like the one shown, which is my current bench. You need plenty of light as well so you can see what you are doing especially with detailed work. This is my toolbox, which is full of all manner of specialized tools and stuff. This is the heart of any scratchbuilder's hobby; I have had my tools for years and each has a job and a purpose. Pictured above is the minimum amount of tools you will need to scratchbuild with in plastic. With these you can probably still build anything but it won't be easy. They are from left to right: a heavy file, sandpaper (you'll need multiple grits, 300 is shown), an X-acto knife (a razor knife will do, I have one, heck even a boxcutter will work) toothbrush (dollar store) for cleaning dust out of detailed parts you have made, a good ruler is a must have along with a triangle a pencil and some scissors. I will be using many more tools as the build gets underway and will introduce and explain them in turn. |
03-27-2011, 05:03 PM | #2 |
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oh , man, this is going to be so sick.. i can't wait to see a air boat come to life.. i been wanting to make one for so long.
freakintiger, when you begin, can you explain to us the different size gauges of styrene sheets, and what one you are particularly using? |
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03-27-2011, 05:41 PM | #3 |
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I am subscribing to this!!!!
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03-27-2011, 06:15 PM | #4 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Cool I always wanted to build with styrene.
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03-27-2011, 06:24 PM | #5 |
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How dio I subscribe to this thread?
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03-27-2011, 06:36 PM | #6 |
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03-27-2011, 08:13 PM | #7 |
COBRA NAVAL AVIATION
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Thanks all!
Unclassified: Yes, I will be posting the thicknesses of all plastics and the part numbers as well. Adhesives Pictured are all the adhesives you'll ever need for working in styrene and ABS as well. From the left are two Plastruct products. The first is Plastruct Bondene which in my opinion is the best chemical welder for styrene plastics (including ABS). I have used it for years and it really does produce a strong weld which the company claims makes two pieces of plastic as strong as one (I've only had about three occasions where I was doubtful of that). This is a fast working adhesive that fully cures in 30 minutes flat. I have found depending upon the amount used, and the nature of the assembly, it can be worked in 9 to 18 minutes. Next is Plastruct Plastic Weld which is used in joining different plastics. This is the welder you want to use for the newer ABS plastic 'Joe vehicle bodies when joining styrene details to them. It is a slower acting adhesive, but always produces a solid, strong bond. Plastruct, Inc. - Home Note: While Plastruct products are available from hobby stores you can order from them direct, you just have to make a $20 minimum order. There are other brands of welders out there. Testors makes a decent liquid cement. There is a product called Tenax-7R which is supposed to be very good. There are many more brands as well, which I have never used. At some point in the future I will be testing straight MEK from Home Depot to see how well it works. Beyond welders are "contact bond" adhesives like epoxies and cyanoacrylate or "superglue". These adhesives while strong do not produce a weld in which the plastic of both pieces joined comingles, therefore while strong their bonds are inferior and subject to breakage. What are they good for then? Well epoxies are good for joining other materials like wood (including balsa) and metals to your project. They are also good for attaching clear plastics to opaque ones, for canopies and windows. Use caution though, epoxies often will have a yellow tint from the catalyst or hardener and will produce heat as they cure. In sufficient quantity curing epoxy can warp plastics. Note: Have a good timer or clock around when you use epoxy so you can monitor mix and cure times as you work. Pictured is a cheap timer I got at Walmart. Devcon makes the best epoxies, they are nearly clear when cured. My choice if I have budget for them. Super glues are good for attaching small metal pieces to your work such as photo-etch and other metal hardware. They are also great for attaching resin detail parts to plastics as well. A note of caution about superglues: These products will "frost up" as they cure. They will frost clear plastics and should not be used with them. Insofar as general assembly is concerned Walmart stocked brands are fine for epoxy and superglue. Loctite General Purpose 5 Minute Epoxy is there and Krazy Glue is sufficient for your cyanoacrylate needs. Once you open a container of superglue it is doomed. The large containers you see at Hobby Stores often will harden before you get a chance to use it all. Not so with the small and inexpensive Krazy glue packages. Plus Walmart is open 24/7 unlike the funky hours at your local HobbyTown USA. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: All of these products produce fumes. These fumes can really mess you up. The fumes from Bondene are strong as are the ones from plastic Weld which reek of Acetone. The fumes from epoxy resin will take you by surprise as they are very heavy or thick but creep up on you. Epoxy and superglue fumes are corrosive, superglue will burn your eyes especially if spilled. USE ADEQUATE VENTILATION. The welder types are highly flammable so don't use them near open flame or smoke around them while you work. If you elect to get some Plastruct adhesive you will need to make some sort of holder for the easy to tip over and spill glass bottles. I made this one using a Taco Bell container. If you spill a bottle of this stuff it is like unleashing Hell especially if you spill it on your clothes. If this happens to you get out of the affected clothes immediately as this stuff absorbs through your skin. This has happened to me twice over the years being sloppy. |
03-27-2011, 08:56 PM | #8 |
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this is so awesome, you just answered glue questions i had since 08..
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03-27-2011, 09:02 PM | #9 |
Knight of Spear
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Front page and sticky this!
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03-27-2011, 09:13 PM | #10 |
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sticky, yes, it should be. front page, it will just get pushed away. his work should all be front paged, his work should all be stickied. this thread should definitely be stickied.. this is one of the best threads ever created..
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