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01-02-2009, 06:30 PM | #21 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 665
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Kneadatite or Greenstuff can lose adhesion over time, and the green colour can bleed through surface paints.
I use milliput for face sculpts, and milliput black more recently for vests/ Both the hats and vests of these two are from milliput black... Here's a face/body sculpted Rihanna... and for those Brits who know him, a Harry Hill facesculpt |
01-04-2009, 12:13 PM | #22 |
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Last edited by daremo; 07-12-2012 at 08:39 PM.. |
01-04-2009, 01:33 PM | #23 |
Sigma 6 Aficionado
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Dirty Jersey
Posts: 482
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I just bought some millupt white...
i'm nervous to start sculpting but i need to for a custom... |
01-04-2009, 01:45 PM | #24 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ohio, USA
Posts: 73
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Quote:
I have been using Kneadatite in various capacities from miniatures to car repair for a number of years. None of it ever lost adhesion, nor did the green ever bleed through on the painted items. I have some painted items that are more than 10 years old now... ~Eric |
01-16-2009, 11:20 AM | #25 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: May 2008
Location: michigan
Posts: 4,470
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does it matter if you get green stuff in a roll or tube? because i was just going to buy it in tube form since thats all i can find.
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01-16-2009, 12:27 PM | #26 |
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Last edited by daremo; 07-12-2012 at 08:39 PM.. |
01-16-2009, 12:47 PM | #27 |
"The Mayor"
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Central SD
Posts: 4,022
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My biggest hangup is getting small amounts of the plastic for molding. I don't want to buy a huge amount from the manufacturer only to discover I hat doing it. I haven't had any luck getting the plastic or even green stuff from Michaels or Hobby Lobby (which are still 200 miles away).
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01-17-2009, 06:07 PM | #28 |
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Flint, MI
Posts: 3,351
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I got some aves apoxie the other day at the ole hobby shop and it works wonders. The transition from sculpy to greenstuff hasn't been as smooth as I wanted it to be. I switched to Apoxie and it's awesome. easier to manipulate like sculpey but doesn't chip and dried rock hard. Takes paint well too.
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01-20-2009, 05:03 PM | #29 |
Devil Viper
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: MD
Posts: 1,529
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Question to you gentlemen (and/or lady[ies]):
After you're done sculpting the piece out of "green stuff," how are you attaching it to the figure? I don't imagine it's as simple as pressing onto the fig because a) the item you're attaching should already be dried and b) if it is not already dried, you would smush what you just sculpted. Are you simply super-gluing? (I have bad, bad history with super glue). |
01-20-2009, 06:03 PM | #30 |
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Flint, MI
Posts: 3,351
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typically what I do is sculpt it right on the figure. If it's a piece that requires to fit but removeable too, some use vaseline on the figure and sculpt it on top.
Let's say you don't want to sculpt it on the figure, you can sculpt it on a piece of wax paper and wait 4-5 hours, remove it and glue it on with super glue. I use the super glue gel because it's easier to control and not nearly as messy. any extra unused pieces of greenstuff I usually roll into thin sheets onto a waxy/non stick surface and allow it to dry. later on, I can make armor pieces by cutting and gluing. |
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