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05-01-2008, 05:07 PM | #11 |
Cult of the No-Ring
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Stuck filling out useless information on the details page
Posts: 778
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Thanks. I did a little more work on it, last night. I'm feeling a little more comfortable with it. It's still a totally different beast than customizing Transformers.
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08-02-2008, 12:16 AM | #12 |
Dremel Happy!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Tukwila WA
Posts: 2,051
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I have worked with Resin parts for them. I have built over 200 model cars over the years and have another 200-250 in the works (dont ask).
Just wondering if any of you have messed with Resin parts with Joe's yet?
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08-03-2008, 11:05 PM | #13 |
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Last edited by daremo; 07-12-2012 at 08:39 PM.. |
08-30-2008, 01:22 AM | #14 |
Sniper
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Monett, MO
Posts: 122
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thanks! is there a tutorial like this for plastic casting? interested in dabbling
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08-31-2008, 10:44 AM | #15 |
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Last edited by daremo; 07-12-2012 at 08:39 PM.. |
09-17-2008, 11:04 PM | #16 |
1# Porno Moderentor
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: The Deadzone aka Los Banos, CA
Posts: 243
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awesome tips, thx for sharing!
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"TOO BAD LIFE CAN'T BE LIKE A PORNO MOVIE" |
11-11-2008, 05:15 PM | #17 |
^No Step^
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Argentina
Posts: 9,056
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Whoa, cool and useful thread, thanks.
I'll see if can get the green stuff. Right now i'm using a similar material called "Parsec", an epoxi two-component clay. Seems to be very similar, but the problem with Parsec is that when it start to harden, it gets really sticky and flaccid, and you have to wait a bit and then work quickly before it finally gets hard (now that sounds nasty :P ) Also, once is dry, it's quite thought to scrap rough edges or the like, and is not flexible. The good thing is that the surface is very good for painting, and it comes in several colours, so you can have a base of green or brown (or whatever the colour you need), and then just paint details. The few tricks i use: -before modeling, i wet my hands, and usually the tools too. If i'm going to do a lot of modeling, i coat my hands with some oil (cooking oil is good, no jokes ) -Since the clay usually starts to dry with heat, is a good trick to wrap half of the blob you made in plastic and put it in the freezer. That'll give you a few moer hours (though you'll have to squeeze it again t'll it gets softs again). This works with most of clays, but i dunno with this green stuuf -A good trick is copying. You can copy portions or full pieces with clay. For example, a face: coat the face/head you want with oil, and make a stamp with soft clay. Press good against the surface and let it for a moment t'll it gets a bit hard.Take the stamp out and let it dry. Later, you can use indifenitely,as long as you remember to put in the mold you made some oily stuff! This is useful for doing cobra soldiers for example, or if you want common details like bags and pockets. |
11-11-2008, 05:30 PM | #18 |
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Last edited by daremo; 07-12-2012 at 08:39 PM.. |
11-11-2008, 05:43 PM | #19 |
^No Step^
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Argentina
Posts: 9,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daremo
You can paint, sand, cut, and drill the heck out of it too. And depending how much hardener (the blue part) you add, it can be either flexible or solid. Very useful material for customs. I've been told about that a long time ago, and completely forgot! I should do that with the parsec. That trick is good for hands specially, since fingers need a bit of flexibility. I've found my old Rock n roll '82 v1 torso. Since i have Breaker, i'l try to use the stamp/mold trick on the rest of the figure, to see if i can restore it. RnR was my childhood favourite toy, along with Stalker, he deserves it Btw, is there a way to make translucent things? Some clay or the like? |
11-11-2008, 05:58 PM | #20 |
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Last edited by daremo; 07-12-2012 at 08:39 PM.. |
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