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11-06-2021, 04:56 PM | #11 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: midwest
Posts: 3,221
|
Thanks.
Most of my customs begin with spray paint, then get a wash of the same or near-same color to balance out any imperfections in the spray paint coat. The plastics used by the New Sculpt and Modern Era figures (as well as Star Wars, Indiana Jones, Star Trek, Adventure People, Jonny Quest) stay sticky and the paint will come off when touched, unless a wash coat goes over them. On this ARAH figure, I lucked out and the spray was very even, requiring just a few touch ups here and there, so I was able to skip the wash. The ARAH plastic bonds (and the epoxy used on the chest and for the hood) with the spray paint w no problems. Any rubber plastics, likes skirt pieces, get a goat of gloss acrylic paint before any spray paint goes on. The spray paint will stick to the gloss acrylic better than the plastic underneath it. I also do this to any epoxy bits. It can help fill the edges of the epoxy where it meets the plastic, making it a smooth surface. That's how I hide (as best I can) the epoxy that fills the shoulder rivets, elbow rivets, and thigh screw insets. Occasionally, there are figures that I just put acrylics directly on the figure and start painting. This is usually figures that have lower POA. My technique on detail painting is to underpaint things. For example, I paint the entire face, including the eyes flesh color. Then I add a slight wash, then paint details like the eyes on top of the flesh color. Then I'll go back with the solid flesh color to pick out areas that need more contrast against dark areas, like the edges of the mouth- and to tighten up any spillover white around the eyes and to narrow down the eyelashes. I work in many coats of acrylic paints for the detail stuff. After I put a coat down, I go back with a wet (no paint) brush and hit that area with just water. This levels out the paint when it dries, and prevents streak marks in it as well. For anything metallic, which Wheels doesn't happen to have, I paint a stand-in color for it before putting a clear coat on everything. Gold, for example, would be painted orange or yellow depending on what kind of gold I'm aiming for in the end. After the clear coat, I go back and put a metallic wash on whatever's going to be gold. The orange/yellow underpainting carries most of the work. I've never worked with an airbrush, and I'm told I'm missing out. I also use cheap acrylic paints, like Folk Art and Americana, and Craft Smart. They don't capture light as well or as richly as high-end paints do, like Tamiya (sp?), and require a bit of gloss/clear coating to really look decent. Not sure how far down the rabbit hole you wanted to go on that, but there you go! |
11-11-2021, 11:51 AM | #12 |
ORZO
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 2,135
|
Awesome job! Always impressed with o ring builders because putting those parts together never would have occurred to me but the build with your paint job make them epic together. Head is just so cool looking and then as mentioned by others, excellent paint job.
Loving him with the Action Force vehicle.
__________________
Orzo’s Custom Thread (GUIDE in 1st Post): http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...kitbashes.html Orzo’s Toy Photography & Appreciation Thread (GUIDE in 1st Post): https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...ml#post5391654 Orzo’s Dio-Stories & Comics (TOC in 1st Post): https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...ml#post5347693 |
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