[jlw515]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jscott991

The Resolute torso is a big upgrade. I actually prefer the Resolute color scheme to the vintage, so I just need to learn to dremel to make my ultimate Scarlett.

I need a lot more Retro heads, though, to fit on all the Resolutes I have accumulated.

For an ARAH 82/83 Scarlett, I think the Shooter torso is great. Not perfect, but great. I think it has more of that leotard look to it than the Resolute body. Don't get me wrong, the Resolute body is my favorite sculpt, like an updated version of ARAH Scarlett, but I think the Shooter body with smooth lines is the best available torso to replicate a modern ARAH Scarlett.

That having been said, 46 Zone did a good job of matching the colors. It doesn't look like he painted the legs or boots. So, I am curious as to what color yellow and grey you used or did you have to blend colors to match? Thanks.

Jason

[46 Zone]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlw515

That having been said, 46 Zone did a good job of matching the colors. It doesn't look like he painted the legs or boots. So, I am curious as to what color yellow and grey you used or did you have to blend colors to match? Thanks.

Jason

Sorry. Had to look for the paint. The brand for both is Vallejo Model Color. The grey for the arms and neck is called Neutral Grey 70.992. The yellow is called Ice Yellow 70.858.

I know I mentioned that I did not use primer, but I remember now that I did use the Vallejo white primer on the torso first. That's another reason why my paint is so thick on her.

I didn't have to use any flesh paint as the Resolute skin tone is close to the retro skin tone. I didn't write down the red paint I used, but that shouldn't be that difficult to choose.

Hope that helps. I know the yellow is not perfect but close enough IMO. I'm not big on mixing paints. I'm too impatient for it.

[Jinx723]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adventure Fun

Looks great, but damn son, you gotsta thin that paint down. Something to help break the surface tension like Pledge Classic with Futura (or whatever it is called now). A trick I have found is that you need to let it intermingle with the paint for a few minutes before it forms nice layer. No water needed. The mixture will dry to a smooth surface if applied carefully. It the paint is matte it ends up a nice non glossy satin.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 46 Zone

Thanks. I had to apply a lot of paint as it wasn't covering, and the color underneath was coming through. I didn't use any primer, as I find, I need to apply that in multiple layers to cover the base color, that leads to the same thickness as above.

Maybe I'm just too impatient and don't want to wait for multiple thin layers to dry. That's probably why my paint jobs are so thick.

I was thinking the same thing. Nicely done, but it looked like you rushed the paint job. As you already clarified that you were impatient and used multiple thick coats.

[jlw515]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 46 Zone

Sorry. Had to look for the paint. The brand for both is Vallejo Model Color. The grey for the arms and neck is called Neutral Grey 70.992. The yellow is called Ice Yellow 70.858.

I know I mentioned that I did not use primer, but I remember now that I did use the Vallejo white primer on the torso first. That's another reason why my paint is so thick on her.

I didn't have to use any flesh paint as the Resolute skin tone is close to the retro skin tone. I didn't write down the red paint I used, but that shouldn't be that difficult to choose.

Hope that helps. I know the yellow is not perfect but close enough IMO. I'm not big on mixing paints. I'm too impatient for it.

Thanks for the info.

My idea for an updated ARAH Scarlett will use the retro body, but with some added features. I'm really wondering if I can use some thin fishing line to simulate the ridge and zipper on the leotard. I'm also thinking of a way to add the sling shot to the back pocket. Of course, it may just be pipe dream.

Jason