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04-10-2019, 11:04 PM | #61 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
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More photo fun of some of the 1984 Cobra agents, taken when I did the Wild Weasel photos (since it was set up, and these guys where alreadly taken off the display shelf):
gCobra_25th_84-x3p2_2019-0327aa by J Perez, on Flickr gCobra_25th_84-xFirefly_2019-0327ab by J Perez, on Flickr gCobra_25th_84-xStormShadow_2019-0325ad by J Perez, on Flickr gCobra_25th_84-xZartan_2019-0326ab by J Perez, on Flickr In my last thread post, I showed the setup for these photos. Below is more info on the setup: Though I’ve got 3 desklamps set up, I only use the two side ones for these photos. The 2 side lamps are place as far back away from the camera phone as possible. The idea is to bring more highlights and shine on the figure to the edges, shadow the opposite edges of the figure. This helps the eye blend the image and the idea of the explosion behind the figure. Then the overall room light makes sure the front of the figure is not blackened//shadowed out. The Samsung S5 Camera phone is then set to HD mode, auto-calibrating all settings (exposure, iso, etc), and does a good enough job in giving a raw photo file that captures enough info (sculpt detail, basic color, shadow, highlights) to be workable for photo post-processing by freeware. The camera is on a small tripod, and set to snap the shot by vocal command. As a result, to camera is not touched during the snap to ensure a crisp image. The camera is set up close enough to limit digital zoom (which basically just crops the image file) to max 1.3 to 1.4x. Finally the camera is set at a height eye level (or slightly higher or lower) to the figure—meant to emulate the where a person photos another person in real life height. This limits distortion of the figure in the image. I am not quite satisfied with the size of the heads and upper torso when I have the figure leaning into the camera. The perspective distortion is a bit much because I am so close to the figure (for reasons above). For future figure photos of this style, I am looking to try some macro//wide angle clip on lenses to the camera (so that I don’t need to be so close and still eliminate digital zoom). More on the post processing and more photos this weekend (I hope). gCobra_25th_84-x6p1_2019-0327aa by J Perez, on Flickr |
04-11-2019, 06:52 AM | #62 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 3,026
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Great photos! I really love that Scrap Iron!
Jason |
04-11-2019, 07:35 AM | #63 |
Snake Smasher!
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 4,962
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Those photos are the bomb! Very cool, bro!
-Todd Shakka85
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Trader Feedback: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...tml#post554163 Customs for Sale/Sales List: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ml#post4873161 Joe Customs: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...es-thread.html MTF Customs: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...f-figures.html |
04-21-2019, 07:57 PM | #64 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
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Last three figure shots from previous photo shoot. I notice that the single figure portrait oriented shots really come in bigger than what I've normally been posting. I don't normally want or need people seeing these figures (especially customs or repaints) that closely! Oh well...
gCobra_25th_84-x3p3_2019-0327aa by J Perez, on Flickr And the singles: gCobra_25th_84-xCopperhead_2019-0327ab by J Perez, on Flickr In Copperhead's shot above, he is leaning towards the camera--so his head looks a little disproportionately big. For future shots, I've got to move the camera back and zoom in to minimize this effect (but lose pixels as the trade off). Destro will be the big test for that adjustment (going back to the 1983 guys). gCobra_25th_84-xScrapIron_2019-0325ab by J Perez, on Flickr This one above is my favorite, because of the figure and the color. Though it was influenced by the original carback art in pose, I decided that I wouldn't fully kneel the originals if they were kneeling, to help keep all shots more proportionately the same. gCobra_25th_84-xWildWeasel_2019-0325bb by J Perez, on Flickr Wild Weasel was the first taken of this batch, which is good because he was probably best for establishing the right high contrast lighting with his semi-gloss finished head. Both Copperhead and Wild Weasel's poses based loosely on the newer 25th Anniverary package art. gCobra_25th_84-x6p1_2019-0327ab by J Perez, on Flickr All 6 figures shot, this time with a mild retro filter applied. PROCESSING: Working with the setup and lighting described previously, the figures are shot with the Samsung phone camera, then immediately sent to my Samsumg S Tablet for review of the image in large format. Figures are immediately shot again if things are off in the pose, angle, or the figure's painting. Photos taken from the camera are simultaneously being uploaded to Goggle Photos autmatically. All instances are deleted except the last final raw shot. The shots were set to be taken with the phone's setting as HD, which I fully don't understand except that it seems to take multi shots with different settings and combines them as a hybrid to provide the most complete data of the picture's color, shade and shadow (when in this mode, most of these adjustable settings are now unadjustable). Final processing of these shots modified with editor setttings available for free in the Goggle Photos app. I use all the different sliders available for light and color (found by clicking the down arrow adjacent to the slider to uncompress). I typically don't use the vignette effect, but found it useful here to help blacken the edges around the explosions. I have also been using the "Pop" slider a lot in recent months. I wish I could find a more thorough explanation of how it does what it does, but the name "Pop" is fairly self descriptive. The Samsung's Pro Editor has a similar effect, but is labelled "Backlight". Both seem to give that effect of Hasbro's figure glamour shots when applied mildly. When applied extremely, you can get a more rendered effect, making the photo look like it was drawn graphically rather than photographed. The freely available photo editing apps from Google, as well as one my phone and tablet have taken care of my needs so far. I don't know if it's worth getting Photoshop, except when trying to composite images and graphics maybe--and something I am looking to explore in the future. Below is a before and after of Scrap Iron, for one last look behind the curtain. The main things in the raw photo are getting the shadowing in the right location, getting the lighting to not wash out color and getting some definition of edges and facets in the black areas--getting enough image data for the post-processors to enhance. PhotoGrid_1555887989872 by J Perez, on Flickr |
04-22-2019, 04:17 PM | #65 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 3,026
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I love seeing the before and after pics. Thanks for the information on using our smartphone camera.
Jason |
08-14-2019, 06:01 AM | #66 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Scotland
Posts: 57
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Question. Your Firefly 50th - did you paint his boots and gloves or is it just the lighting? I avoided this one because of the contrast of his boots and gloves being too light compared to the ARAH original, but seeing yours I might have to replace my 2007 Grey Firefly!
Amazing work on every single figure as always! |
08-14-2019, 09:12 PM | #67 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
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Quote:
Question. Your Firefly 50th - did you paint his boots and gloves or is it just the lighting? I avoided this one because of the contrast of his boots and gloves being too light compared to the ARAH original, but seeing yours I might have to replace my 2007 Grey Firefly!
Amazing work on every single figure as always! For Firefly, I just used the paint wash to darken the entire figure, with a uniform application, not wiped off, and left to dry. The lighting and auto-adjustments of the camera do come into effect, as is seen from pics from post #10 and #36. There are two pictures in post #10 with two different shades of background grey but same lighting, while another pic from post #36 has different lighting, but same background as one from #10. But with all three, you might be able to get an idea if doing this paint wash app is acceptable for tweaks to your own figures. Last thing: For this Firefly figure build as put together for Hasbro (and also used for 50th Flint): I have come to the conclusion that they installed the knee pieces switched--wrong knee piece on lower legs, should be reversed. Check yours out closely and share if you agree! I've switched all mine only last week. More on this in my GI Joe 1983+ thread in the days to come... |
08-15-2019, 05:45 PM | #68 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Scotland
Posts: 57
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Thanks for the info on the wash. Now I know...
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08-29-2019, 12:02 PM | #69 |
Christian Soldier
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,244
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Quote:
I decided to repaint my 50th Anniversary style Scrap Iron last week, and was able to a few photos today:
gCobra_25th_84-ScrapIron_2018-0324a by J Perez, on Flickr This time I went with the darker blue and red. Previously I guess I was burnt out on all the dark blue from my Cobra 1982 OG13 set, but it is more in line with the vintage figure. The dark blue this time is Tamiya Flat Blue instead of Citadel Kantor Blue. I also went with a darker red (Citadel Khorne Red), and painted more parts in this secondary color. I changed the silver accent bits to gold, to help further set him apart from the blueshirts (now that his blue BDU’s matched theirs), and offset the darker colors. I later remembered that Hasbro also did the gold thing on their POC Snake Trax ATV version—so there is some precedence to it. Topped it off with cobra sigil waterslide decals from ebay. Here's a side by side with last year's paint version. Same build (Retaliation 3pack Firefly body), darker paints (but also more lighting control). gCobra_25th_84-ScrapIron_2018-0324b by J Perez, on Flickr Comparison of blue shades, CC in Citadel Kantor, SI in Tamiya. gCobra_25th_84-ScrapIron_2018-0324c by J Perez, on Flickr I was actually hoping for more of a noticeable difference in blue, since these two are typically in the same display set. The Tamiya applied well without primer (for thinner paint layers than previous), but had an uneven finish--very flat when dried, but very glossy where/when handled a lot (hand oil, or just moisture?). I used a Vallejo Satin Varnish to even it all out, and keep a plastic toy look. Side by side with the vintage original, then and now (at least for me): gCobra_25th_84-ScrapIron_2018-0324d by J Perez, on Flickr So the kid in me is happy with the new blue (though the new red is darker, but acceptable). The gold bits, when side by side with the original may look a bit too much? After looking at this for a while, I believe that the original would look good with them as well. I was tempted to add them to my original but I'm holding back for now. Instead, below is a simple mockup study with the gold: gCobra_25th_84-ScrapIron_2018-0324e by J Perez, on Flickr
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05-14-2021, 01:49 AM | #70 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
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I thought that the Walmart Retro Collection Baroness would my $28 solution to upgrading my 1984 Baroness.
I almost posted the figure along with paint and hair tweaks. That went out the window when I got an unexpected//pleasant suprise from hisstanker//castor paraviper//cobra1678. 20210513_212841 (1) by HissHissFangFang, on Flickr Preview for now. Figure is pretty done, still I need to heal my arm (Covacc2), finish taxes, take more pics and write up. But I am really pleased with what I've got so far... |
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