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02-14-2016, 06:00 PM | #21 |
Yee Ha!
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,273
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Thanks guys, both were fun projects.
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02-14-2016, 06:24 PM | #22 |
Yee Ha!
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,273
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Quote:
That's some really nice work there. I'm trying to learn to work with styrene and seeing what guys like you can do makes it seem so daunting. Great looking figure and bike. If I could give one suggestion, hit that back tattoo with a quick spray of clear matte and you won't be able to see the sheen of the decal outline anymore. One pass will do it.
I also appreciate the advice on the decals. I did actually coat all of them with some clear matte, but it was lightly brushed on instead of sprayed. I'm not sure if that makes a difference or not, but I might try the spray next time to see. I think part of the problem is when looking at it in person, you can't really see anything, but after taking the pictures up close while on the super macro setting is kind of like looking at it through a microscope.
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02-16-2016, 12:32 AM | #23 |
Secret Ninja In My Pants
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,111
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This project is friggin' awesome because of a few things:
* New and inventive character. Simple, but detailed where it counts and with creative use of existing parts to suit YOUR vision of the figure, not limiting your vision of the custom based on the only parts you could get. Mad respect for that. * Customising a Dreadnok motorcycle. How often do we see figure customs that are then placed on those fantastic Maisto 1:18 bikes and the bikes have f*ckall done to 'em? Again, simple too. A basic machine gun and that awesome scythe (where did you GET that wonderful toy?) but the Behind The Scenes showing that they weren't that simple to create. Speaking of which... * Technique. Making the difficult bits look simple. The Styrene (which I've GOT to find and play with, it looks like it'll open up new worlds for me!) modelling, the cut-to-fit pieces of gear and the oh-so-subtle paint apps on the weapons and such. This is brilliant. Well done mate, and good onya for pushing the bounds with the matte finish and such. I'm stoked to see what's next (and I'd be double-stoked for email previews)!
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Originally Posted by My Wife
When you said you'd bring some toys to the bedroom, this is NOT what I expected.
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02-17-2016, 08:55 AM | #24 |
Yee Ha!
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,273
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Quote:
Thanks Judd! The sickle was scratch built out of metal and styrene. It's was actually pretty simple to make and the same technique can be used to make most any bladed weapon that is straight, but especially good for ones that have a curve to it. All you need to get started is a hammer and a flat hard surface, such an anvil or thick piece of steel. Some bench vises have an anvil like surface that will work fine. Mine is actually a crappy poor man's anvil(a short piece of railroad track). You also will need a short length of wire or 6 so inches long which makes it easier to hold on to, and a short piece of some kind of tubing that will fit over the wire. The wire I believe I used an 18 gauge wire that can be found at most any hardware store. I also used 3/32"(I think) styrene which can be found at some hobby stores or online. Other things, like a scrap of wire insulation could be substituted though. First off you take the piece of wire and bend one end into whatever shape you want. For this, I used a wooden dowel rod to bend the wire around to get the half circle shape of the sickle blade. Then start likely hammering it against the anvil as you move up and down along your proposed length of the blade area. You also need to flip it back and forth to do the both side of the blade to make it the most uniform. Think of the process of being a mini blacksmith(without the heat)and take your time lightly hammering it out until it forms a flat blade like surface as wide and thin as you want it to be. If you know you want a wider blade to begin with, then you might want to use a thicker gauge wire to hammer out. It's important that you don't hammer past the area that will be the handle area. After that, you can then snip off the very end of the bladed area into a pointed shape and file down any uneven areas along the blade edge if needed. The excess wire piece left round will fit into your tubing to form the handle. Then you just test out the length you want your handle to be, then cut it to that desired length. Slide it over that rounded end left on the wire and snip off the excess wire sticking out from the tube handle. Then all that's left is to polish out the blade surface if you want and put an edge on it with a small file. Paint your handle and that's pretty much it. Real steel for your custom. Hope all that made a little sense, lol! If there are any questions to clarify anything, feel free to ask.
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My BST: https://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-j...admos-bst.html My Feedback: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...og-readmo.html Last edited by Capt OG ReadMo; 02-17-2016 at 04:05 PM.. |
02-22-2016, 06:49 AM | #25 |
Secret Ninja In My Pants
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,111
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That is f*cking SICK man. So cool.
I've klooged some things in my time, but I've never hammered wire into a weapon for my Joes. This tutorial needs polished and stickied in the Customs forum. That is awesome. I can feel the need to make customised ninja swords for all my crew.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by My Wife
When you said you'd bring some toys to the bedroom, this is NOT what I expected.
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02-22-2016, 03:02 PM | #26 |
just a Marine
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: central PA
Posts: 1,681
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Very cool. "multi media" can really add to a piece. and the details, the one that gets me, is the button and wires to control the machine gun. So awesome that you considered that and put it in there.
FWIW, working with styrene is fun and fairly easy. You are pretty much limited by what you can imagine, and I think the hardest part is fastening/mating/gluing styrene to other plastics or materials. Styrene to Styrene is model cement, but Styrene to PVC or other materials can get trickier. It is sort of like casting. Sure, there are some tricks and tips that make them both easier, but I see guys make the most awesome customs and then say they don't known if they have the skills for styrene or casting. Honestly, building with styrene is far easier than the awesome paintjobs on this figure and bike. |
02-18-2018, 11:44 PM | #27 |
Yee Ha!
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 1,273
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Just reposting some more defunct Photobucket pics:
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02-19-2018, 12:35 AM | #28 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 14,837
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I still like it a lot!!!
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02-19-2018, 10:30 AM | #29 |
Snake Smasher!
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 4,965
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Don't remember seeing this one its first time around, but brother, that is a fantastic custom figure and bike set! The figure alone is amazing, but add that ride and you have a killer combo! Thanks for re-uploading the pix and sharing them (again) with us!
-Todd Shakka85
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Trader Feedback: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...tml#post554163 Customs for Sale/Sales List: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ml#post4873161 Joe Customs: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...es-thread.html MTF Customs: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...f-figures.html |
02-19-2018, 10:04 PM | #30 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 94
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Wow, what a killer custom! Love that tat, that bike and that figure. I have been thinking of creating an biker gang allied to the Dreadnoks.
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