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01-31-2014, 04:17 PM | #1 |
Steel Brigade
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hungary
Posts: 932
|
As you remember my previous thread about molding:
http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...hunmarine.html I promised to use another method/epoxy for molding. At previous time I used a Moment epoxy wich has its own mixing tube, but was harden too fast. This time I used Bison 2 component Epoxy with a medical syrenge as a mixing "bottle": DSCN2944 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr So this time - I copied a beret. Maradeur's Falcon's beret so to have a beret for my Retaliation Ultimate Flint. (Its hard for me to get any new figure, thx to my location...so instead of buying a wave 1 Flint...I decided to mold a new beret) |
01-31-2014, 04:20 PM | #2 |
Steel Brigade
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hungary
Posts: 932
|
As you remember the 1st step is a plastiline molding forms:
DSCN3047 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr Step 2: took apart your syrenge and push some epoxy (both components) inside it (use little cuts-out from drinking straw tubes to make it easy): DSCN3048 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr Than mix the components inside it until you won't get a one colored mix (it takes nearly 5 min of mixing): DSCN3049 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr |
01-31-2014, 04:24 PM | #3 |
Steel Brigade
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hungary
Posts: 932
|
Step 3:
Assemble your syrenge with the mix and slowly push it out into the forms: DSCN3050 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr Thx to Bison epoxy - it gives you a lot of time to arrange eveything, and work with more forms at the same time. Its harden a bit longer than the Moment...but its worth it. Push together the forms and leave it harden nearly for 6-8 hours: DSCN3051 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr |
01-31-2014, 04:27 PM | #4 |
Steel Brigade
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hungary
Posts: 932
|
|
01-31-2014, 04:34 PM | #5 |
Steel Brigade
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hungary
Posts: 932
|
As you can see some sanding was required:
DSCN3097 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr I decided to paint it black. And printed a 2 mm x 2 mm decal of te new g.i.joe logo. Even with this little size - it look a bit big on the beret. So this is the finished product: DSCN3098 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr DSCN3099 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr DSCN3100 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr On RB's head =) The M249 in his hand - was copied by the same method. DSCN3101 by HUNMARINE, on Flickr So as a final thought: You have to decide for yourself what is better for you. If you have to copy 1 model (gun, beret or anything else) - you can use a fast harden epoxys...but if you need time and trying to do several molds...Bison is good for that. Try it out...experience with different epoxys and find out your own way of cast and molding =) Hope you liked it, and as always - thanks for watching! |
02-01-2014, 04:47 AM | #6 |
G.I. Joe/ Autobot liaison
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,669
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wow man
you just have loads of practical talent. these Ideas are golden brother |
02-01-2014, 04:56 AM | #7 |
Steel Brigade
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hungary
Posts: 932
|
Quote:
This isn't the best way of molding. But helps out if you need something to copy fast. And definetly - it won't be necessary to do, after everyone will get its own 3D printer. But until than...its some sort of a fun =)) |
02-01-2014, 04:59 PM | #8 |
Grand Master
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: illinios
Posts: 5,716
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why not just sculpt in on with the green stuff and pop it off?
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02-02-2014, 04:01 AM | #9 |
Steel Brigade
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Hungary
Posts: 932
|
Quote:
The 2nd one - If I don't know how to do something, I'll try something out wich don't damage the figure at any levels. Thx to my far away location - buying new figures is a headache for me. The 3rd reason - With this method I already copying weapons time to time for fun. I just want to show - that this method can give you an opportunity to copy headgear. In part 3 of my fast and dirty copy method - I'll try to copy backpacks. Anyway - thx for your comment =) |
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