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01-05-2014, 03:55 PM | #11 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,548
|
the down side to is not all plastics work. Chemical weld works on plastics that break at some point when you bend them, plastics that don not reach a breaking point will not weld, for those I screw them in place if possible and if not then I screw them to a piece of styrene or other hard plastic and glue the styrene on.
I personally use all purpose plumbing cement like you get at the lumber yard or Wal-Mart for about $3 a can (should also get the precleaner which is about the same price and helps with a stronger weld in my experience). It is probably over kill but I have dropped my vehicles and they have not broken, The one break I had was a fin on a missile, dropped it and the fin broke but the weld was still solid. It comes with a large applicator and is therefor sloppy which does not bother me because I am sloppy anyway. I assume that if you use a smaller applicator it would be less sloppy. It is a slow glue, it gets solid shortly but really needs 24 hours to really cure because it essentially melts the plastics together and they take several hours to fully harden again. Freakingtiger swears by Plastruct Bondiene which I have looked at on Ebay and mean to try but just have not pushed myself to do it yet. All of your styrene selling sites insist on chemical weld rather then super glue. I have actually replaced any superglue I use (metal to plastic and no way to use screws) with a tube called Jewelry glue from the craft section of Wal-Mart. Not sure how it is going to do over the duration of time but is an amazingly strong superglue and is a very thick gel. If you have not read Freakingtiger's thread on Styrene scratch build I would highly recommend it. About post number 5 or so discusses glues. http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...cs-beyond.html |
01-05-2014, 04:25 PM | #12 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: snohomish wa
Posts: 1,062
|
you have done alot this year! you have taken alot of risks on different vehicles to customize, yet the out come as been amazing! great job! keep up the great work!
when i say risk. i say this cuz when im out and about. looking at toys at thrift stores i pass, cuz of the risk they wont turn out right. |
01-05-2014, 06:11 PM | #13 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,548
|
Quote:
you have done alot this year! you have taken alot of risks on different vehicles to customize, yet the out come as been amazing! great job! keep up the great work!
when i say risk. i say this cuz when im out and about. looking at toys at thrift stores i pass, cuz of the risk they wont turn out right. A good example of this is the Mini Monster. It was a Bratz Mini, the wheels were useless and when I bought it I had no idea what I would do with it, just knew it was pretty close to scale. I came across a pair of wheels and said those big wheels might look cool on that Mini. I built the structure and then discovered they did not work but still looked good. I then went looking and found the larger wheels that I put on it. Still had no idea what I was doing with it but had just received an Armadillo in a lot of toys. looked at it and realized that it was almost a perfect fit. I just let the vehicle lead me. Similar story for the fan boat I was wanting to make a totally different fan boat out of it (similar to the movie boat) but stumbled across the Fan and seat while looking for other parts in my junk box and it was just too perfect. The Dreadnok pick-up is another example. I did not know what to do with it because it was missing its doors, started piecing away at it slowly as I got inspired. In fact the gunner cage was something I scrap built with hopes of mounting on the front of the fan boat but realized it was way too big for that vehicle, then ended up being the piece that completed my truck. The ICBM truck is another good example. It started life as a 1:18 scale diecast toyota pick up without any wheels. I picked it up for like $1 but had no idea what to do with it because I do not like working with diecast. I then discovered that I could remove the diecast body and have wonderful plastic truck frame to build off of. I slowly started scratch building the top half a little at a time as I got inspired to. I currently have several vehicles that are sitting about 75% done because I have been searching for the right pieces to finish them. Mainly frame and cage building bars. I think I found a cheap supply of this type of material which will never run out. Roll cage and frame material is critical to most of my builds and I would go broke if I bought it all from model companies. I am getting ready to test the plastic card stands that floral shops use. It is square but I can deal with that if it glues up fine like I think it will. I have a lot of fodder sitting around but at thrift store prices it isnt a big deal if I never figure out something to do with a vehicle. And then I have some pieces sitting around that I know will be able to do something awesome but just have not had anything grab me yet for the vehicle. |
01-16-2014, 05:49 PM | #14 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,548
|
OK, so a couple of weeks ago Phantro asked me about bonding agents for permanent structure.
I talked about plumbing all purpose cement (looks like snot if you grabbed the right can) which I have been using and mentioned that I was told that Plastruct Bondene was top of the line but I had not tried it. Well I bought a bottle and tried it. It works. It likely works better then Testors cement. It is a liquid not a gel (I prefer the gel but that is personal preference). It is a LOT less messy then the plumbing cement but I would say the hold does not even compare to what you get with plumbing cement. The chemical melt of the plastics that plumbing cement does is a whole different level from what Bondene accomplishes. I will definitely use the Bondene on occasion but my GOTO product is still plumbing cement. Yes it is a little messy and usually requires some sanding and clean up before painting but the hold is second to none and it also works on a larger selection of plastics then the bondene. Is it overkill?? Yes in many cases it probably is but the piece of mind knowing that it is will hold up to play that I get from the bond I know it forms is worth any extra sanding I have to do to get rid of the excess. |
01-16-2014, 10:32 PM | #15 |
G.I. Joe/ Autobot liaison
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Texas
Posts: 7,669
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Interesting and great to know, more tools I can add to my bag of tricks. Less messy is better for me so I will check it out
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01-16-2014, 10:48 PM | #16 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Missouri
Posts: 1,548
|
I do not like the mess, it makes for extra work but the hold that the plumbing cement gives is beyond absolute. Hell it holds pipes together under the house for years and years with constant water pressure.
The truth is I doubt that the plumbing cement has to be as messy as it is when I use it but I am a messy person by nature. I think that if you had a container and bursh like the bondene comes in (I actually plan on using the bondene bottle when it gets empty) rather then the huge swab that is used for plumbing that it would likely be much less messy. I think that the main factor in the sloppiness is the applicator. |
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