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12-11-2008, 02:06 AM | #11 |
So much drama 'n the LBCs
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 4,844
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Work under good lighting. Also, if you want to catch spots that you missed, take a pic with the flash on. You'll quickly find any and all flaws that you can't see with the naked eye. And if you're like me and don't fix the flaws, they will DRIVE. YOU. NUTS.
Natural sunlight is often the best lighting for novice photographers. Flashes often look terrible because they can blow out a photo and make a hot spot and your paint jobs, although looking factory, will look like bad customs (even though I'm guilty of this because I'm lazy and rarely home during the daylight hours). |
12-11-2008, 02:07 AM | #12 |
a series of tubes
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Northern IN
Posts: 5,551
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12-11-2008, 02:26 AM | #13 |
We Sleep, They Live
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 1,653
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Alright cool. Ill hit my hobby shop up. You spray after they are assembled?
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12-11-2008, 02:39 AM | #14 |
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: No answer
Posts: 6,187
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Instead of boil and pop on new sculpt/25th figures. Use a hairdryer. The hair dryer is by far the best tool for swapping upper arms, feet, and limbs.
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12-11-2008, 02:59 AM | #15 |
Zarana's lover
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lajas, P.R.
Posts: 706
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I want to say this tip to hisstankers in general whol like to take pics of their loved action figures with digital cameras: for the love of God don't use the flash when taking pics of them in such a narrow distance. All the photos you took with flash in a distance of about 3 feet or less will always look washed out. Try instead pushing the ISO in your camera so you can take a good picture of your figure in a room that lacks some light. Sure pushing the ISO could make your pictures look kind of grainy but what is best, a picture without little to no details because your flash wash off the objective or a picture with a bit of grains but still detailed and well iluminated?
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12-11-2008, 03:21 AM | #16 |
Dremel Happy!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Tukwila WA
Posts: 2,051
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Best paint I have found for my customs, figures and vehicles, is Tamiya...
The best base is using Tamiya spray. It's not enamel, nor is it acrylic. I hate acrylic, but it does work well. Tamiya Spray is a laqure (spelling) that gets super hard and sprays thin, most of the time with good coverage... I even use it on the figures when they are apart. You will need to look at the cans to see if it is flat/matt/simi/or gloss... They make tones of colors and they match the little acry bottles they also make... They cost about $7 a can now. They work on everything. Metal, plastic, you name it....
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S/T/W Tread: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...tml#post239748 My feedback: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...1-skyhawk.html |
12-11-2008, 03:54 AM | #17 |
Cult of the No-Ring
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Stuck filling out useless information on the details page
Posts: 778
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There is no problem. The vipers' wrists are molded into a bent pose, to give them a very realistic two handed rifle grip. The use of this on a nameless troop is a shear stroke of genius on Hasbro's part. People seem to think that they need to be starightened. I don't understand that mindset.
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12-11-2008, 03:56 AM | #18 |
^No Step^
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Argentina
Posts: 9,056
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Quote:
Those little tiny ass brushes are worthless after painting once or twice with them. No matter how much you pay for them, if they look like they're made from 11 hairs, they'll fray almost immediately. I've found the BEST brush is a small, chisel-tip/chisel-edge brush. Dragging it through a clean line of paint then wiping it off on plastic (extra clear plastic works wonders for this) gives you a blade-sharp edge and a sharp point, great for corners. Use toothpicks for very tiny spots, like eyes or buttons on clothing.
Also: To avoid having loose hair pasted on the painting, you can put a drop of superglue on the base of the brush, where the hair is hold by metal. You can also use pincers on them, pressing hard where the hair is hold. That would keep them in place, and make them flat. I found that flat brushes are way better that round. You can glue a brush; this will make a good tool for small details like logos or letters, as the point of the brush will be slightly flexible.Also, you can have another glued brush, but you can bend the hair when the glue is drying; this will make a good tool for those places that a straigth brush wouldn't do it. Overall, hard-hair brushes are better than soft ones. Work on a high surface. I usually have a simple small can. That way i have my arms resting on the table, and my hands on the small can, wihich gives me better pulse (a can of 5 inches/15 cm high, works perfect for me) You can also make a square with wire (about 4-6 inches), make a loop on the base so the square could stand, and now you can hang there whatever you're painting for safe drying (arms or legs for example). |
12-11-2008, 03:59 AM | #19 |
^No Step^
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Argentina
Posts: 9,056
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Quote:
There is no problem. The vipers' wrists are molded into a bent pose, to give them a very realistic two handed rifle grip. The use of this on a nameless troop is a shear stroke of genius on Hasbro's part. People seem to think that they need to be starightened. I don't understand that mindset.
*searchs for a pic* LoL yeah, they're cool, but if they're not holding weapons they look like fairies. Bah, thay don't need fixing, hands can be swapped in any case. Or if you feel brave, with a bit of Xacto cutting, you can add an articulation on the wrist. Btw, this thread is very useful...should be stickied |
12-11-2008, 08:20 AM | #20 |
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Methuen , MA
Posts: 231
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thank you and how do i sticky the thread?
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Barbecue68 |
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