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07-18-2008, 11:22 PM | #1 |
Arrest me Officer!!
Join Date: Jul 2008
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Hello.
How Y'all doin? This site rules! I'm new here, and I have recently been bitten by the collector's bug. I love these 25th ann. figures. I've been eager to try my hand at customizing these toys. But I don't know what kind of paints and glues to use. I read through some of the stickies on this Custom section, and I was thinking that it would be nice if there was a all in one Kitbashersguide to customizing thread. Ya know, like what kind of supplies, tools, paints, and glues to use. Anyway just a suggestion. You guys will be seeing me around here a lot. Thanks! |
07-18-2008, 11:35 PM | #2 |
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Paints: can't go wrong with Tamiya, and Model Masters (by Testors) is also good, and easier to find than Tamiya! but BE SURE you get Acrylic... it's water based, so it dries faster (enamel, on the other hand, sometimes doesn't dry at all!!!), and it's easier to clean up spills... you don't even have to buy thinner... just use a jar of water!
Glues: Super glue works fine, but I personally use "Extreme Power" Cyanoacrylate glue, found in the model car section at Hobby Lobby in a clear tube with a green label. Tools: decent paintbrushes (not those crappy Model Car brushes... get one of those $7.99 Leow-Cornell brand brush packs at Hobby Lobby and you should be fine), X-Acto knife (and plenty of blades), small Philips head screwdriver, flat-head scrwedriver, and pretty much anything you may have laying around... Putty/Sculpting stuff: GreenStuff! I haven't been able to find any in stores... I get mine off e(vil)Bay.
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Xbox Live Gamertag: thenamescorey Wants/Haves list (UPDATED 9/6/09) http://www.hisstank.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10780 Feedback: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13133 Customs: Battle Damaged B.A.T.s FOR SALE! 1 http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...maged-b-t.html 2 & 3 http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...t-s-2-3-a.html Last edited by coreyrc; 07-18-2008 at 11:38 PM.. |
07-19-2008, 12:31 AM | #3 |
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I was under the impression that some paints actually melt the plastic. Is this true in some cases? Or any glues for that matter?
What are the ones to stay away from? |
07-19-2008, 12:34 AM | #4 |
Hisstank.Com General
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I have heard of this as well, but if you stick to acrylics, you will have no problems. No Acrylics should ever melt plastic
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07-19-2008, 04:16 PM | #5 |
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Model Car Glue (Testors Model Cement) melts plastic. Stick with normal Super Glue/Krazy Glue or Cyanoacrylate Glue and you'll be fine.
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Xbox Live Gamertag: thenamescorey Wants/Haves list (UPDATED 9/6/09) http://www.hisstank.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10780 Feedback: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13133 Customs: Battle Damaged B.A.T.s FOR SALE! 1 http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...maged-b-t.html 2 & 3 http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...t-s-2-3-a.html |
07-19-2008, 06:23 PM | #6 |
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Platic weld is actually a great way to go for glueing plastic together, because it melts the plastic. It's basically model glue that works on ABS and PVC, as well as polystyrene. The only plastic weld I have is made by Testors, and doesn't work that well on PVC. I use CA (super glue) because it holds to most things. I suggest getting CA from a hobby shop of some sort. I've never had much luck getting regular super glues to hold well.
I'll second the vote for Model Master paints. I've also recently had a chance to use vellejo paint, and I like it, as well. There are some clear enamels out there, that will attack clear plastics. I've also run across people who swear up and down that enamels will destroy plastic, over time. I've painted a number of models with different enamel paints, and over a decade later, they're still fine. If any plastic is going to be damaged by a paint, it's model styrene. How ever, you still don't want to use enamels on Joes, because it won't fully cure on the softer plastics used in newer Joes. It won't dry past being soft, sticky, and gummy. Model enamels tend to dry kind of soft, anyway. Just remember that not all acrylic paints are meant to be used on non porous surfaces, like plastic. This is why I generally stay away from craft paints, unless they're labeled as an acrylic enamel. |
07-19-2008, 06:42 PM | #7 |
Human Smoke Grenade
Join Date: May 2008
Location: North Carolina
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Welcome! Yes, any enamel paints will cause a reaction to most of the plastics used on Joes, and will cause it to remain tacky for years. Stick with the suggestions mentioned.
Now, that said, Run, Ronnie, run!
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07-19-2008, 06:48 PM | #8 |
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i haven't tried it yet but im a painter by trade, residential commercial production an what have you, an sherwin williams has a latex bondin primer, an i wanted to try it on vehicles an figures, then apply the top color paint, an i would clean the surface wit paint thinner rag, an let dry an not touch wit fingers. then spray the primer, in thin coat. i read someone sayin soap an water first, an i dont know how that works, paint dont adhere to soap an water cleaned surfaces. a bleach solution may be the other way i would try after paint thinner. i already sprayed a ferret frame wit that fusion stuff, two spots, one spot was cleaned wit thinner an the other not, i was nervouse of thinner meltin the plastic but it didnt, an thats a pvc type plastic. they have bonding primer in a can so you can actually buy a qt, an pour a lil in a cup an paint it by hand wit a lil art brush, but for vehicles i would spray . this is the approach im takin that an dyin. i jus need to figure out how to crack open a joe. oh an dont soak the rag in thinner you only need a lil bit, an rub all parts so the oils dissapear. an the paint bonds. clean surface is rule number one in paintin'!
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07-19-2008, 07:30 PM | #9 |
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I tend to wipe mine down with isopropyl alchohol, before I paint. It also cleans any oils and mold release agents off, and there's no fear if it damaging the plastic.
Is that bonding primer similar to the plastic adhesion inducer sold for autobody work? I'm always on the lookout for anything that will let paint stick to the handrails on my model train stuff. |
07-20-2008, 12:10 AM | #10 |
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Quote:
I tend to wipe mine down with isopropyl alchohol, before I paint. It also cleans any oils and mold release agents off, and there's no fear if it damaging the plastic.
Is that bonding primer similar to the plastic adhesion inducer sold for autobody work? I'm always on the lookout for anything that will let paint stick to the handrails on my model train stuff. |
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