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10-27-2008, 08:39 AM | #91 |
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Where is a good place to buy styrene for making custom parts, and where can i learn to work with it?
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10-27-2008, 08:47 AM | #92 |
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Styrene can usually be had at hobby shops. If you've got a place around that caters to sign makers, and the like, I've heard you buy huge sheets of it, relatively cheaply, there.
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10-27-2008, 06:06 PM | #93 |
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Quote:
pyro on dying, the hard lil discs that have the point that goes inside the arm lets say, the actual elbo or shoulder, that paice takes dye good or no! an the soft plastic lke the arms im sure take it very well, what bout the chest part? an i read before bout the painted ares! i was wonderin' mostly bout the the hard plastic elbows an knee caps! i noticed paint dont stick to that plastic to well! the slightest rub an it peels!
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10-27-2008, 06:32 PM | #94 |
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Quote:
They have a branch local to me, and I'm at a sign shop, so it's relatively easy for me to pick up. They're international, so perhaps they can just ship it to you. Styrene is easy to work with. You can cut it with an x-acto or even with a pair of scissors (depending on thickness). |
10-27-2008, 06:42 PM | #95 |
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Okay, perhaps dumb question, I breezed through the thread but didn't see the answer, so if it's obvious, I apologize in advance for being a 'tard.
Is there a good paint "THINNER"? Or something to remove paint? I have TF Duke that I want to remove the red from his collar and the flag on his sleeve so I can make a toon-Flint. I know removing paint from TFs can be a pain and thinner is dangerous, but didn't know what was good to remove paint from 25th Joes without jeopardizing the plastic. |
10-27-2008, 06:56 PM | #96 |
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Quote:
Okay, perhaps dumb question, I breezed through the thread but didn't see the answer, so if it's obvious, I apologize in advance for being a 'tard.
Is there a good paint "THINNER"? Or something to remove paint? I have TF Duke that I want to remove the red from his collar and the flag on his sleeve so I can make a toon-Flint. I know removing paint from TFs can be a pain and thinner is dangerous, but didn't know what was good to remove paint from 25th Joes without jeopardizing the plastic. |
10-27-2008, 07:44 PM | #97 |
So much drama 'n the LBCs
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Yeah, I learned the hard way about paint thinner on some TF customs. If it doesn't melt the plastic, it crumbles later on and gets milky white. |
10-27-2008, 08:36 PM | #98 |
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Denatured alcohol is the stuff you get in the hardware section. It's perfect for the removal of paint and adhesives.
Isopropyl (Rubbing) Alcohol can work in a pinch but since it's weak, it willl take a lot more elbow grease to remove anything. Better to just get a small container of the denatured. |
10-27-2008, 10:24 PM | #99 |
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Quote:
Thanks. What's the difference between denatured and regular alcohol? Is it store-bought (as in regular Target/Walmart/Walgreens retail)?
Yeah, I learned the hard way about paint thinner on some TF customs. If it doesn't melt the plastic, it crumbles later on and gets milky white. |
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10-27-2008, 10:25 PM | #100 |
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That's exactly why I use dying for darker figures in addition to painting. The knees, ankles, elbows & shoulders became black aafter two dips in the dye bath. The arms and lower legs took slightly longer. The thighs and chest took many repeated dyes to take the black. I have not dyed heads yet. That is what I did when I made the Cobra de Aco commission from a Flash figure (Which is lighter than Grand Slam) and what I did for Road Pig's legs since his knees were Serpentor Green.
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