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Thread
: Discussion
Retro Figure (Vietnam Mold) Swaps and Breakdowns
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07-03-2021, 07:33 PM
HissHissFangFan
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
Quote:
Originally Posted by
germ
I noticed on my Stalker that his arms don't go all the way down which annoys the hell out of me. Cant put him in as many poses and he cant hold his gun with both hands because of it.
Has anyone experimented with dremeling in the sides a little bit, like underneath his arm pits? Probably would need a grove going straight up and down like on the other modern Joes. Was wondering if any one has tried this or just how dremeling the figure in general turns out - like does it turn out fine or does it damage the figure too much?
Modifying the torso so his arms lay flatter to the body was one of the first things I did, for less awkward looking vanilla poses. It is easy to do, and probably easier than doing it on modern figures. I also do this on all my POC/30th SE/CT/FF figures.
On all pictures of Retro Stalker//OG13 I shown up to this point (this thread and GI Joe O13 by HHFF), all have varying degrees of the mod. On earlier pics I was a little shy about how much to cut, and than later kept pushing for more cut--especially to better fit the Zap//SF harness.
20210703_180236
by
HissHissFangFang
, on Flickr
Above is my Zap (left) along with a new Stalker I'm prepping for ??? today. I carved out a curved section behind the front pecs, cutting as deep as needed for fit--the front pecs will hide anything behind it from view, especially when arm is down. I use a standard exacto knife, this soft plastic carves like hard butter.
I wouldn't recommend dremelling--this plastic seems to bruise easily and you'll likely get a rough and white finish that won't sand down easily (may need to do multiple sand apps changing the grit to finer grit each iteration, then felt rub). With a knife, you can get a clean smooth cut (or smooth enough). Also you don't need to heat the plastic or anything. The plastic becomes too soft and doesn't cut as nicely. Finally, I recommend heating up and prying off the arm as shown. This made it a lot easier to work with the area to be cut. When I found out the arms pop out easily, that's when I got bolder in the depth of cut.
20210703_180018
by
HissHissFangFang
, on Flickr
Above is a comparison view from the front, to show how the pecs hide the area behind. You'll also notice a bit on the unmodified version that sticks out unnecessarily instead of caving in. I feel that bit was making the torso look wider than it needed to be (already pretty wide). The thing to watch out for is how the finished work looks up against the side top of the lower torso.
20210703_180501
by
HissHissFangFang
, on Flickr
The last thing is that the area being cut is all solid soft plastic and there is no joint thru the side--different from the previous modern molds. When I first did this, I was worried I'd be shaving down thin hollow parts to nothing, but it's all solid through here.
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