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04-16-2018, 01:57 PM | #1 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 485
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1984 Baroness
Thought I should change the o-ring, but now figure won't stay together at shoulders regardless of which size o-ring I use. Was fine before. |
04-16-2018, 02:10 PM | #2 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: New York
Posts: 4,069
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She should come back together. There are various reasons why she may not, including a stripped screw-hole. Or certain parts like the neck-tabs, shoulder slots, or o-ring being out of alignment
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04-16-2018, 02:25 PM | #3 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 17,156
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The other reason is the type of shoulder joint. Early release had a 90 degree angle at the end and it would bite into the elastic. The later ones had angled internal shoulder joint so it would have room for the elastic. Check which one you have. If you have the flat one, then put the elastic on, and then put the arm on and ensure the arm can go in all the way. It'll likely bite into the elastic. If the arm is in all the way, then it should all fit and you'll be fine.
However, if the thread is stripped on her front torso, then the only way you can fix it is possibly find a slightly thicker screw.
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Nighthawk's Feedback | HasLab figures FS Wants: female Hiss driver from HISS Haslab My Ebay auctions: kalwin_woo | eBay |
04-16-2018, 10:56 PM | #4 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 486
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Out of curiosity, try to assemble her top half (chest/back, arms, head) WITHOUT the o-ring just to see if it is indeed the o-ring that's causing the issue. If you can put her together and there are no longer any gaps in the shoulder then you know it's the o-ring's fault. If the gaps in the shoulder remain, then you know it's the fault of something else.
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04-17-2018, 11:48 AM | #5 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 485
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Marty, I did that before posting, and the chest comes together perfectly. That's why I didn't know what could be wrong.
I didn't know about the angled vs. square joints. That's what's doing it. |
04-18-2018, 12:58 AM | #6 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 485
|
I'm getting this figure, Cobra Comm., and CG carded.
I put new o-rings on them, and I used the thin o-ring because I thought it would put less stress on the figure. I'm looking to get them to last a long time, since they'll be sealed. This is the one I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Thin-O-Ring...72.m2749.l2649 Good idea or go with the standard thick ones? Thanks for any help. |
04-18-2018, 01:47 AM | #7 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 17,156
|
Try putting the boring on the figure without the arms. Then wiggle the arm onto the back and get it to fit on the back half. If the oring pushes the arm back out then while pushing the arm joint all the way back and roll the oring forward slightly k that when you let go, it'll hold in place and the arm sits properly in the socket. Not sure if that makes sense but that's how I did I to make sure the oring isn't pushing the arm out.
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Nighthawk's Feedback | HasLab figures FS Wants: female Hiss driver from HISS Haslab My Ebay auctions: kalwin_woo | eBay |
04-18-2018, 06:01 AM | #8 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Classified
Posts: 8,376
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I have have had this problem and I blamed the screw. My solution was to use crazy gel glue and fill the front of the body screw hole completely and pack it in with a toothpick before removing ANY excess glue anywhere around the hole. <--- important
Then I let it dry for a long time. Like 24 hours even. Then put the body back together and take one of the pointy GI Joe screws and screw it back in applying good pressure to get it to thread into the now solid area created by the glue. Haven't had any problems since.
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"If ignorance is bliss, then knock the smile off my face." ~ ZDLR |
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