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07-28-2013, 07:02 PM | #1 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 348
|
I bought a 1984 Storm Shadow recently and he came with this wonderful screw jammed in his leg:
No doubt the seller was trying to be nice by replacing a rusty screw. It reminded me of a 1983 Tripwire I got recently that had an ill-fitting back screw forced into it that actually broke the screw casing: Oh, and there was the 1989 TARGAT that also had a replacement screw that split the screw casing: In years of collecting, the number of figures damaged and ruined by poorly fitting replacement screws that I've come across is staggering. It seems like people think that forcing replacement screws into a figure is fine as long as they fit. They ignore the sound of cracking and the bits of plastic dropping to the ground. And then they sell it to me. And I want to strangle them. So I decided to put together a comparison of the original screws from 1982-1989 with some of the replacement screws that I've run across. Most of these screws come from my childhood collection, so I am sure they are original, but if anything doesn't agree with what you've seen, please let me know. The key for the replacement screws: 1) The most commonly available screw from a certain well-known GI Joe site. 2) The screw that broke my Tripwire. 3) A cassette tape screw (these are often recommended for some strange reason). 4) The screw that was in my Storm Shadow's leg. A few things worth noting: From 1983 to 1986, pointy screws (sheet metal screws) were used. In 1982 and from 1987 blunt screws (machine screws) were used. The replacement screws available from a certain popular website are blunt screws, and their tips are too wide to be put in a figure that's had a pointy screw as the screw casing might split or break off from the added stress. I haven't noticed any real differences between the leg and back screws. There is some variation within a year, but I think it's due to Hasbro manufacturing inconsistencies. Even for years when blunt screws were used, the threading on the replacement screws does not match. Notice not only the spacing of the threads (the pitch), but also the thread angle. If either of these is even slightly off, you will end up re-threading the screw hole, which will weaken the plastic. You might end up with the good old ever-turning screw that never tightens if you strip the threading completely. I'm sure some of you are thinking: "But I've been using replacement screws for years and I've never had any problems!" That might be true, but unless you've found the mythical perfect-fitting screw, you're likely re-threading the holes. If they're for your collection and you don't mind potentially damaging your figure, then by all means, go ahead. But if you're planning on selling it, please think twice. I would much rather buy a figure with a rusty screw than one with a replacement screw. I am now becoming suspicious of sellers who advertise "brand new rust-free screws". The worst part is that most of the time, it's not even necessary to replace the screw. If it's rusty, throw it in some WD-40 or Coke and then sand the head and it will look fine. If the screw head is stripped and you must replace the screw, or you really want that shiny look, then find a junk figure from the same year and scavenge the screws. |
07-28-2013, 07:09 PM | #2 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: dallas tx
Posts: 9,107
|
I don't blame replacement screws. I believe the culprit to be ignorance by thinking all g I joe figures use the same screws. For example putting a 1987 figure back screw in a 1982 figure. Same goes for leg screws.
__________________
feedback http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...-feedback.html MY BUY/SELL/TRADE http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...cessories.html My Collection http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ollection.html |
07-28-2013, 08:01 PM | #3 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: May 2008
Location: South Lyon
Posts: 308
|
Great writeup and great pics. Informative and helpful. Great job!
|
07-28-2013, 08:34 PM | #4 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 348
|
Quote:
Thanks! |
07-28-2013, 08:58 PM | #5 |
Christian Soldier
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,244
|
Good info, thank you for posting this. Re threading is a concern to me as well.
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I submit to You, Lord. I lay it at your feet. Turner's Customs Sell Thread Feedback |
07-28-2013, 09:04 PM | #6 |
Master of Disguise
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 302
|
Thanks man, I was thinking about this recently and wondering what were the right replacements so this just answers it all.
Awesome work!!!
__________________
|
07-28-2013, 10:02 PM | #7 |
Bounty Hunter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Montreal, QC
Posts: 4,502
|
Cool! Thank you for posting this SV
__________________
''Play it straight, or there's no doubt, I'll turn your eyeballs inside out..'' 5h4rK's B/S/T 5h4rK's feedback |
07-28-2013, 10:28 PM | #8 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Fallston, Md.
Posts: 253
|
has anyone who has bought those replacement screws that are shown in these pictures ever had problems with them stripping really easily. with the ones i've bought it seems like almost every one strips and it's basically worthless. it's like they're made out of really cheap metal
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07-29-2013, 02:45 PM | #9 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Lima, Ohio
Posts: 174
|
Thanks for the info. I just got some figures that had really chewed up or missing screws and wondered about replacement.I put a post up just before you did about it, and this is a major eye opener. Thanks again.
Quote:
I bought a 1984 Storm Shadow recently and he came with this wonderful screw jammed in his leg:
No doubt the seller was trying to be nice by replacing a rusty screw. It reminded me of a 1983 Tripwire I got recently that had an ill-fitting back screw forced into it that actually broke the screw casing: Oh, and there was the 1989 TARGAT that also had a replacement screw that split the screw casing: In years of collecting, the number of figures damaged and ruined by poorly fitting replacement screws that I've come across is staggering. It seems like people think that forcing replacement screws into a figure is fine as long as they fit. They ignore the sound of cracking and the bits of plastic dropping to the ground. And then they sell it to me. And I want to strangle them. So I decided to put together a comparison of the original screws from 1982-1989 with some of the replacement screws that I've run across. Most of these screws come from my childhood collection, so I am sure they are original, but if anything doesn't agree with what you've seen, please let me know. The key for the replacement screws: 1) The most commonly available screw from a certain well-known GI Joe site. 2) The screw that broke my Tripwire. 3) A cassette tape screw (these are often recommended for some strange reason). 4) The screw that was in my Storm Shadow's leg. A few things worth noting: From 1983 to 1986, pointy screws (sheet metal screws) were used. In 1982 and from 1987 blunt screws (machine screws) were used. The replacement screws available from a certain popular website are blunt screws, and their tips are too wide to be put in a figure that's had a pointy screw as the screw casing might split or break off from the added stress. I haven't noticed any real differences between the leg and back screws. There is some variation within a year, but I think it's due to Hasbro manufacturing inconsistencies. Even for years when blunt screws were used, the threading on the replacement screws does not match. Notice not only the spacing of the threads (the pitch), but also the thread angle. If either of these is even slightly off, you will end up re-threading the screw hole, which will weaken the plastic. You might end up with the good old ever-turning screw that never tightens if you strip the threading completely. I'm sure some of you are thinking: "But I've been using replacement screws for years and I've never had any problems!" That might be true, but unless you've found the mythical perfect-fitting screw, you're likely re-threading the holes. If they're for your collection and you don't mind potentially damaging your figure, then by all means, go ahead. But if you're planning on selling it, please think twice. I would much rather buy a figure with a rusty screw than one with a replacement screw. I am now becoming suspicious of sellers who advertise "brand new rust-free screws". The worst part is that most of the time, it's not even necessary to replace the screw. If it's rusty, throw it in some WD-40 or Coke and then sand the head and it will look fine. If the screw head is stripped and you must replace the screw, or you really want that shiny look, then find a junk figure from the same year and scavenge the screws. |
07-29-2013, 03:15 PM | #10 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Indiana
Posts: 348
|
I often see lots on ebay of figures in poor condition that go $10 or $15 for 10 figures. They're perfect for replacement screws if you match the years up, as long as you check with the seller beforehand to make sure they aren't rusted. You can even make some of your money back by selling the t-bars.
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