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06-11-2017, 12:12 PM | #1 |
$9.99 for THAT on eBay!?
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Seattle http://cobraworkshop.tumblr.com/
Posts: 49
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Hey fellow tankers.
In Feb I asked some advice on restoring a 1983 Skystriker. See the link below for a before pic if you want. http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...on-advice.html Well, months later, it is finally complete. All I need now is to apply decals. I thought some of you guys may appreciate hearing about what I learned during the process, especially for bigger projects. In Feb I took it all apart (no broken tabs!!!), washed it, removed decals and Goo-Goned the crap out of it. However, one of the reasons it took months was I was stuck waiting for good weather. I couldn't get three or four days of sun for months and finally at the end of April we got it. I made up a batch of Retro-Brite and got the yellowing pieces covered. This was my second time doing a large item with RB and I have to say I am not impressed. Half way through applying it it started to dry out. I added a bit more H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) to it and quickly got everything sealed but it didn't matter. While sitting outside in the sun the stuff still dried out. I put the SS, covered in RB, inside tightly wrapped cling wrap then put it in a vacuum bag which I sealed, then used packaging tape to seal up any areas I thought air might get it. The next day I gave up after noticing the RB had STILL all dried out. After this I did a lot of research on RB and found a German website dedicated to restoring old computers. There I learned a lot about the chemistry behind what it going on. Their advice was to use a UV lamp and apply fresh RB every few hours. That wasn't going to happen. I didn't have the time or money to do that. They also said that the Oxyclean or powdered bleach really does nothing other than clean the plastic so it is NOT necessary. I will say on my first attempt to de-yellow the SS that, although the RB didn't do anything with the yellowing, it sure made the plastic feel clean and like new. I did use Oxyclean in my RB recipe so it is good for cleaning. They also said that stronger H2O2 does NOT mean better. Most people there suggested nothing greater than a 10% solution of H2O2. I was using 35%. Anything greater than 10% can cause blooming (burns to the plastic) which I did get with the Moray restore I did. So after two attempts to use RB I decided it was time to move on. I had recalled reading here someone once restored a Terror Drome and they used a ton of store bought H2O2. They also said that fully submerging the parts wasn't necessary and that the trapped gas was what was needed for the chemical reaction to place. After the first attempt was a bust we didn't have nice weather again until the end of May. As soon as we had a week of sun I bought a large clear storage bin at Target and three 32 ounce bottles of H2O2 (3% solution). I poured it all in the bin with the yellowing parts and then added a few cups of my 35% H2O2 to boost the percentage a bit. Put the lid on and sealed it tightly with packaging tape. I put it outback in the sun on top of some aluminum foil to reflect some sunlight onto the bottom parts and let it sit for two days. What came out was great and was a pleasant surprise. Although the plastic was only about 1/3 submerged the gasses did the trick and de-yellowed everything. Another thing I learned was store bought latex gloves may have tiny holes, even when new. I put on a new pair when taking everything out of the H2O2 bath and started rinsing everything. About 5 mins in I could feel some burning and sure enough when I took my glove off I had a white fingertip. The H2O2 was also good for nearly completely removing the "poop" smell on the canopies. it is still there if you really smell it but it is no longer pungent like it used to be. Side note about canopies. I have three SS canopies and all three are "vintage" but all three have different shades of darkness. Has anyone else noticed this? Is it a variation? Finally after getting the yellow removed I used Baby Oil to polish the pieces (48 hours with the baby oil before another deep clean) and then it was time to put it all back together. I am thrilled with what came out and can't wait to get some decals to finish the project. I even kept the bent small missile which I have had since the day I opened the box. It arrived that way and thought, "what the hell, it's the original one so I am keeping it". Last edited by Picmover; 06-11-2017 at 12:34 PM.. |
06-11-2017, 12:25 PM | #2 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Leeds, UK
Posts: 237
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Looks fantastic! Thanks for the RB info too.
I've noticed a couple of different shades of canopy but I assumed it was aging or different countries of origin.
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06-11-2017, 02:16 PM | #3 |
LNC Commander
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Sbartek's Guest Room
Posts: 24,577
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Oh geeze that looks amazing!
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06-11-2017, 02:48 PM | #4 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Secret underground complex
Posts: 7,025
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Thanks for the background on your project. I have heard some good and not so good things about RB. I also heard that submerging the item was a bad idea and that the evaporated gas was enough. I'm glad you confirmed that because I have a Crusader to work on.
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06-11-2017, 03:22 PM | #5 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: At the bottom of the pile!
Posts: 2,846
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Wow! This makes me want to do my vintage skystriker. I wonder if it would work without disassembling? I am just really scared to take it apart.
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06-11-2017, 05:30 PM | #6 |
$9.99 for THAT on eBay!?
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Seattle http://cobraworkshop.tumblr.com/
Posts: 49
|
Quote:
The only damaged piece was one of the wheel covers. Not the wheel door that has the spring on it but the piece that holds the actual wheel in place. They were a pain. They are tight and have three tabs. There is a small notch on the side of each one and I used an eyeglass flat screw driver that fit in the notch to pop them off. One did have a tab break so I'll need to replace it some day or just glue it in to place however, it "works" the way it is and will be fine for display. I don't see why you can't do the whole bird but I'm not sure how the springs or the screws will hold up in H2o2 or for that matter the rubber wheels. Let us know if you go for it. |
06-11-2017, 05:34 PM | #7 |
$9.99 for THAT on eBay!?
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Seattle http://cobraworkshop.tumblr.com/
Posts: 49
|
I've been watching Crusaders on eBay have been thinking about getting one that needs some work to restore it. The SS was such a success that I feel more comfortable now saving a few bucks if I can and getting one that will need some extra work but will look good in the end.
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06-12-2017, 10:29 AM | #8 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 337
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I have a slightly yellowed sky striker with perfect decals. Do I have to remove them to put it in the peroxide? I do realize getting wet and being in the heat may cause them to peel and fall off but it seems like a shame to take them off.
Also which replacement decals did you buy? I've heard that cobra stickers are good but the skystriker stickers arent quite a match to the originals. There is a black stripe instead of a white one after the word GI Joe and the names under the cockpit are different |
06-12-2017, 03:07 PM | #9 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Athens Al
Posts: 2,741
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Damn dude that is SWEETNESS
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Looking to trade for Vintage Iceberg and Frostbite 25th Mutt Just loose figs, no need for accessories. |
06-12-2017, 03:35 PM | #10 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 17,152
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Wow! Looking good!
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