|11-23-2008, 05:17 PM||#1|
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Midway, PA
I've been thinking about ways to improve the Modern-era Joes, as well as keeping them consistent, so I came up with the following. In a nutshell, it calls for more freedom of movement, more removable and better fitting accessories, while adding a couple of points of articulation. This is just how I would do it, that's all.
1.HEAD – The head should be allowed complete freedom of movement, unhindered by the base of the neck or any accessories, to be able to look forward in a prone (laying down) position or skyward while standing. The best way to do this is to keep the inside bottom of the neck joint hollowed as close to the base of the skull and jaw line as possible. All individual characters that are not “troopers” (a figure who is not an individual per se, but a group of individuals who form a force – e.g., Crimson Guard) should each have a unique and detailed head sculpt. Add-on accessories (such as Snake Eyes' night vision goggles) should be removable, while any head harness should draw attention away from the point which these accessories would attach to. Additionally, all helmets or other forms of headgear (aside from masks or glasses) should be removable. If the figure is to be a “trooper”, then the faces are allowed to be hidden by masks to prevent the need for multiple head sculpts, allowing them anonymous individuality when their helmets are removed (as with the armored Cobra Commander). Figures with hats or berets (such as Gung Ho or Flint) should also be removable.
2.UPPER TORSO – The upper torso should allow freedom of movement at the lower torso and upper arms. Any accessories (vests, protective gear, load bearing equipment, etc.) should be removable. Harnesses for backpacks should also be removable (such as Dusty or Firefly).
3.LOWER TORSO – Should also allow freedom of movement from side to side and front to back. The waist should allow for any belts to sit comfortably, while not hindering rotational movement above the pelvis.
4.PELVIS – A new point of articulation for the Modern G.I. Joe line, it would essentially either be a point where the waist would swivel, or could incorporate a sort of “ball joint” like the original ARAH line using rubber bands to keep the upper and lower body together. The second option may not be feasible with the amount of space taken up within the upper torso cavity. The pelvis should also allow the upper legs (still held in place by the “T-Bar”) a full range of rotation, making sitting and multiple other poses allowable (a lesson learned by the notorious “diaper crotch” of early 25th Anniversary G.I. Joe figures).
5.UPPER ARMS – The upper arms should be set out slightly farther from the upper torso to allow a better range of motion. Likewise, the lower arm connection point should leave room for the lower arms to bend at least at a 90 degree angle.
6.LOWER ARMS – The lower arms should be set out slightly farther from the upper arms to allow a better range of motion.
7.HANDS – Another new point of articulation for the Modern G.I. Joe line would be wrist joints that would not only allow the hands to swivel around, but also up and down (see the Marvel Legends line). The hands should be molded with slightly more hardened plastic, with the hands tight enough to securely hold the figures weapons, with their index finger extended enough to fit within the trigger guard (a modification I've had to make on nearly every figure I own).
8.UPPER LEGS – The “ball” area where the upper legs connect to the pelvis should be slightly smaller to allow a better range of motion, including sitting positions. Accessory holding devices (such as holsters and knife sheaths) should allow the accessory to fully seat within securely.
9.KNEE – This joint should typically be a “pad” type, unless the diameter of the characters legs are too small to accommodate (such as Scarlett), and should then be incorporated into the lower leg.
10.LOWER LEGS – These should attach to the knee joint securely. With figures wearing calf-length boots (which is the majority), they should have an extra point of articulation added here, where the length of leg above the boot would swivel independently from the rest of the boot.
11.FOOT – The foot should attach securely to the lower leg, while maintaining freedom of movement. The peg holes (for stands or accessories such as skis or flippers) should be placed at a point where the figure would be best suited to standing, in regards to their accessories (such as figure like Roadblock, who have a large amount of cumbersome gear).
12.ACCESSORIES – These should all be molded to fit the figure: guns should fit securely in their hands, helmets should sit securely on their heads, etc. Backpacks should allow stowage of equipment (where practical and applicable, such as Lt. Falcon's backpack setup), and all other accessories should be molded in accurate colors (such as guns in a gun metal gray, and not green).
13.FILECARDS – These should also be consistent and accurate, especially in regards to the figure's code name and specialty. The card information should also reflect the character's background at the point of reference from the figure's point in history (such as the Snake Eyes in the comic pack with the Hard Master).
|11-23-2008, 05:29 PM||#2|
Join Date: Jul 2008
An interesting set of guidelines. Unfortunately Hasbro isn't likely to listen.
|11-23-2008, 05:37 PM||#3|
Teenager from Mars
Join Date: Sep 2008
I like your guidelines. But as said, hasbro wouldnt ever listen unfortunately.
|11-23-2008, 09:59 PM||#4|
Toy Hunting Master
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Burbank, Ca.
Your guidelines are per se the perfect G.I. Joe figure. Unfortunatley, you can only do so much on a 4" figure. My only gripe with 25th Modern line is the inconsistancy of flesh. All head, arm and hands should be molded in flesh color instead of painted. Sometimes these ae painted to the point where you lose a lot of the details that went into the mold. Wave 4 & Comic Pack Wave 4 Dukes are good examples, so is Wave 1 Flint and Cobra Flint.
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