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06-25-2008, 11:42 AM | #21 |
Moderator
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Quote:
Another thought I could have is that we know that every Doc figure originally comes sealed and the majority of people who send them in will do so as such so there isn't much differential between them. There is a much greater chance of getting a wider margin between circulated and uncirculated figures than probably Doc. I know they are VERY strict on their uncirculated grades and with factory sealed cases they will only do it if they hear the "pop" when they open up the case. I have heard some cases where people buy the cases at a retail store and just slice the tape to account for 8 items without ever removing them from the box and they didn't receive an uncirculated grade.
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07-10-2008, 11:30 PM | #22 |
Lt. Falcon
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Miami
Posts: 2,162
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Does AFA work faster than their said time frame or slower?
Im thinking of doing the 6-8 week tier and was wondering if I can expect my figures sooner from them or will they actually take 6-8 weeks? |
07-10-2008, 11:33 PM | #23 |
Scarred Cobra Officer
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 4,612
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Standard service and custom cases could be slower. Express service standard figures may be a tad bit faster but not always.
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07-10-2008, 11:35 PM | #24 |
Lt. Falcon
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Miami
Posts: 2,162
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has anyone done the 6-8 week tier and recieved them earlier tho?
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07-11-2008, 01:05 AM | #25 |
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The turnaround times are for "business days" only which are M-F according to AFA's schedule and hours of operation. I just sent in a Wave 9 case this week with the 4-6 business day option so I will see how fast I get them back. I would believe that they should ship them back to me the 17th or 18th and I would receive them within 3 days of this (around the 20th) which would be a total of 10 days (counting weekends, transit time, etc). Basically, I would expect them to take the full 6-8 weeks if that is the option you are choosing to have them graded.
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07-11-2008, 01:52 AM | #26 |
Iron Grenadier
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Quote:
That's the point. If you had a score of 100, that would mean that you have the single best version of that figure in existence. The only way to confirm that would be to grade every since one that exists. Since that's impossible to verify, you can't call any one figure the "best" graded sample since it's always possible that someone could produce a better one.
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07-11-2008, 02:07 AM | #27 |
Lt. Falcon
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Miami
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Jeefrozup was your wave 9 box in good shape? do you do that option of having a minimum grade...example: anything below 85 you wouldnt want them to grade
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07-11-2008, 02:25 AM | #28 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 16
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I have never found the premium or express tiers to ship slower than the quoted number of days. I have had a couple instances where the standard service has taken longer than the 30-40 business days, however.
A crease in the card from the j-hook/punchtab to the card edge will give you an overall 80 unless the crease breaks color (ie, displays elements of white, unpainted cardboard cause it's so severe), in which case it'll get you an overall 75 if it's a minor break or 70 if it's major. It doesn't matter if the bubble and figure are immaculate. That's how it's going to be. If the veining takes place on the back alone, you can sometimes get by with an overall 85, but the card subgrade will be an 80. Veining corresponding with the top of the accessory bubble on the rear of the figure (vintage) is seldom penalized. You can still get an 85 with this veining. You probably won't get a 90 though. A tiny white bubble stress can -sometimes- slip by with an 85, but a dent or normal sized stress will cap you at an 80. A bubble crack is the worst thing that can happen to you if you're chasing grades. Cause the highest overall grade you'll get is a 70. A perfect unpunched vibrant card with a perfectly oriented and painted figure that has a tiny bubble crack will likely grade (90,60,90); overall 70. Don't bother grading something with a crack unless it's exceedingly rare or valuable. Similarly, a hang tab tear or staple/pin hole will cap your card subgrade and overall figure grade at 70. Unpunchedness doesn't matter much, if at all when calculating card grade. Price tags allegedly don't penalize, but I've seen very few 90s with tags. I wouldn't count on getting a 90 with a tag on your card. But unless you're sure you can get a price tag off a figure perfectly, don't mess with it. Cause any amount of paper tearing will knock you down to a 75 card sub. Never expect to get anything higher than an overall 85. I have seen 100s of graded figures and once you're in the (85+,85+,85+) range, there's seldom ever a perceivable difference. Consequentially, I place no extra value on a 90 as opposed to an 85 when bidding or collecting. They're really imperceptibly different. It's a dice roll. I've had things come back with 85, 90, and 95 subgrades and there's honestly no difference. I've happily traded off 90s to nutcases willing to pay outrageous premiums and kept 85s for myself. Any ink used to touch up a paper tear, around the hang tab or in the logo, will render your figure ungradeable. If you want to get a touched up figure graded, take a blade and scrape all the ink off. Even if it means further damaging the card. Vehicles are much more liberal in their grading. Things that would get a 70 or 75 if they were figures come back as 80s if they're vehicles. That said, vehicles' tape can't be resealed if they are to be graded. The vast majority of the allegedly MISB vintage vehicles on ebay have had the taped glued back down, and it's obvious upon inspection to serious collectors and to AFA. There is no option for "don't bill me for grading unless it's an 85+." (<- Edit: WRONG, see post below) The only thing remotely similar to this I've experienced was once I had an old vehicle that had a very dubious seal, and I got them to agree to grade it and case it at the appropriate custom price tier if it was authentically sealed and to bill me a standard figure rate and return it uncased if it wasn't. Edit: All my experience is related to vintage grading. AFA may very well be harsher on the new stuff. I didn't see which subcategory this was under. Last edited by bigjohnwoo; 07-11-2008 at 03:29 AM.. |
07-11-2008, 02:54 AM | #29 |
Lt. Falcon
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Miami
Posts: 2,162
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[QUOTE=bigjohnwoo;197921]
There is no option for "don't bill me for grading unless it's an 85+." The only thing remotely similar to this I've experienced was once I had an old vehicle that had a very dubious seal, and I got them to agree to grade it and case it at the appropriate custom price tier if it was authentically sealed and to bill me a standard figure rate and return it uncased if it wasn't.QUOTE] this is from AFA's site: Since it is impossible to determine the condition of the figures inside a sealed case we can screen figures from the case at the customers request. If you'd like us to screen the figures before grading them you should choose a minimum grade and we will grade and call only the figures that will fall within that criteria. Screening fees for figures submitted within the Uncirculated grade are as follows: Screening fees for sealed cases (based on what grade we are screening for): Grade of 95+ $5.00 per figure Grade of 90+ $4.00 per uncased figure Grade of 85+ $3.00 per uncased figure Grade of 80+ $2.00 per uncased figure These fees will be charged to your credit card first for all the figures in the case. Once we determine which figure will possibly grade out to the requested grade, we will charge the grading fees (minus the screening fees) for those figures along with the return shipping and insurance fees for all the figures. This will require you to submit a credit card number so there will not be a delay in the processing due to checking and money order processing times. Also, you can have all the figures graded if you so desire. When possible please package the case inside a separate shipping box to ensure added protection for your graded figures. |
07-11-2008, 03:18 AM | #30 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 16
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Interesting. I did not know anything about this. Collecting vintage, I'm not sending in too many unopened cases of 1982/1983 Joes.
This must be a relatively new thing to appeal to modern collectors. I've never come across this "screening procedure" copy on their site, and I've been grading stuff since before the subgrades. But I haven't sent anything in to be graded in the last year or so. Last edited by bigjohnwoo; 07-11-2008 at 03:20 AM.. |
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