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07-09-2010, 03:56 AM | #1 |
a game designer
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sol III
Posts: 911
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kfsps83's HISS V5 Painting Tutorial
Yo ho ho. Today I acquired another HISS V5. As the last HISS I painted was in a desert scheme, I have decided that this one will be painted to look appropriate in an urban or industrial setting. This tutorial will cover pretty much everything, from the basics to finishing touches. APOLOGIES BEFOREHAND FOR PICTURE QUALITY - my camera is old and is finnicky about focussing correctly in dark settings. I dunno wtf its problem is. Pictures of the finished product will be posted in the morning, when I have better natural light. always cut AWAY from yourself. I use Citadel Colours. Citadel makes the paint sold in Games Workshop stores. It is LUDICROUSLY expensive, but old habits die hard. At four bucks a pop, you're going to want to be very careful not to waste any! Their brushes are ridiculously expensive, but if I don't buy them at GW, I have to go way out of my way to a crafts store to get any. Note that I use three different brush sizes: tiny, large, and wtf huge. I need a medium brush. >.> Somtimes, plastic models will feel oily when you first handle them. This is, as far as I know, leftover residue from the chemicals used to remove casts from molds in the toy factory. It seems to be most evident on ROC Baroness figures. It will prevent your paint from applying properly, so you should remove it before you start. Removal is as simple as lightly scrubbing the affected areas with warm water and a sponge. If you don't feel like making it over to the sink, you can "scrub" the toy with a rag, napkin, or something similar, but you'll have to scrub harder. Fortunately, the HISS seems to be mostly clean, so pre-painting cleanup is minimal. Ideally, your painting should be done before assembling the toy. This keeps those hard-to-reach places from being any harder to reach than necessary. Start with an undercoat. Remember that the undercoat is going to do two things for you: first, it increases the ease with which you can apply your paint, and second, it will affect the overall tone (light or dark) of any further paint applications. If your main colors are going to be bright, you should use a light undercoat; if they will be dark, use a dark undercoat. Generally this means either 100% white (like citadel Skull White) or 100% black (like citadel Chaos Black). It may also be a good idea to use a color that is more in line with your overall paint scheme. For example, on my first HISS, I used a dark brown as the base coat because the main colors were light browns and dark yellows. Another reason against using pure white or black is that if you miss areas that they cover, then you will be able to see it! This is especially true with white undercoats - you must be very careful to hit everything with your paints or there will be specks of white visible, and they will detract from the feel of the model BIG TIME. On the other hand, if you use a basecoat color similar to your overall scheme, you're less likely to notice areas that you missed. For the curious: when simulating chipped paint on a metallic surface, the best thing to do is to apply the metallic paint LAST, rather than wasting it as a basecoat and painting over it (which looks horrible anyway, in my opinion). Yes, I did learn this the hard way. When applying paint to large surfaces, the best option is to use spray paint. If you are going this route, make sure to apply it lightly, or you'll lose details with overspray. I have had this happen to me. I don't use spray paint anymore. Instead, I use my largest brush. Fortunately, Citadel paints apply smoothly and evenly, and a little bit goes a long way. For this project, I have decided to use light brown (specifically, Bestial Brown) as an undercoat. When I drybrush over crevices with lighter colors, the brown will look like dirt or grease, which will help to make this vehicle look like it is being used. This is the feeling that I am attempting to achieve, so win/win for me. Look at that paint dry! For undercoats, it isn't necessary (usually) to get a nice, even coat, particularly if you know you're going to be applying multiple coats of paint. As with the first HISS I did, I have decided that the elevator mechanism will remain mostly black. This is so that when the tank is in the elevated position, the elevator won't draw your attention away from the rest of the vehicle. Also, since it's the underside of the vehicle, it SHOULD look dirty, greasy, and oily. I gave it a light coat of brown. Later, I will give it a light coat of a dark metallic to bring out some of the details. I paint the hatches, guns, and other pieces the same way as the rest of the tank in order to maintain uniformity. I will leave the cables black and drybrush a metallic on them later. Once the basecoat dries, it's time to apply your first coat. Depending on what kind of color scheme you're using, this may be the only coat besides the basecoat. In this case, I'm going to drybrush on a dark grey (Shadow Grey), followed by a lighter coat of grey (in this case, Codex Grey). This will hopefully cause the central parts of the panels on the tank to look sunbleached to some extent, and should work fine, as I have used a similar technique back in my Warhammer days. The first coat will be applied with a damp brush, but in the drybrush style, meaning with light, quick strokes angled perpendicular to things like crevices on panels. The reason I will be using a slightly damp brush is to increase the mileage of the paint that I will be using, since paint on a dry brush tends not to spread very far. Applying Shadow Grey to the HISS.
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07-09-2010, 03:56 AM | #2 |
a game designer
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sol III
Posts: 911
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Whether or not your first coat of paint should be uniform and complete depends on how many more layers (of other colors or patterns) will be going over it. Generally speaking, the more layers you'll have, the less uniform the bottom layers can be, but don't underdo it.
I will apply two coats of Shadow Grey before moving on to Codex Grey, since I don't plan on having very many layers of paint. Applying Codex Grey At this point, you might as well attach the cockpit hatches if you haven't yet done so. They are much easier to paint when they're installed. Notice in the picture above that drybrushing the light grey over the dark grey produces a streaking effect. This isn't what I'm after. The reason I'm drybrushing the light grey on is to avoid filling in the crevices between panels and other details. On the armor around the tracks, I left the light grey kind of streaky to lend to the feel of a dirty surface. I didn't do this as much on the main surfaces of the body because it's unlikely that dirt would gather on a smooth surface, though I did leave the underside a little rougher. Details! Sorry about the camera flash. The next step is to apply a further highlight. To highlight light grey, I'm going to use a mix of Codex Grey and Skull White (which is a 100% white). A mix of 1 part grey to 2 parts white should do the trick. When mixing paints, if you don't have a container to keep them in, you'll need to work quickly. An expendable surface such as a paper plate makes a good palette, but in my case I just use the tops of the Citadel paint jars since they have a depression on the lid. applying the highlights. More camera flash. blugh.
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My B/S/T Feedback thread: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...-feedback.html Best Themesong EVER http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlUyq...eature=related Last edited by kfsps83; 07-09-2010 at 03:59 AM.. Reason: tutorial, hiss, painting |
07-09-2010, 03:57 AM | #3 |
a game designer
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sol III
Posts: 911
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The highlights were applied in two different ways: drybrushing at a 45 degree angle, and lightly dragging the edge of the brush against the hard edges on the tank. If you go slowly and carefully, you should get some good results.
Highlights! In person, they are subtle, but the camera flash blows them out quite a bit and makes them look much more prominent than they actually are. Next, I will apply some metallic paint. I have two that I am going to use, both by Citadel. The first is a darker, dirtier metal called Boltgun Metal. The second is shinier and called Chainmail. Essentially, I will use the former as a basecoat for the latter. These colors will be used very sparingly on the vehicle: the bolts on the wheels, the top of the "engine block" area between the top gun mounts, and on the elevator chassis. The tracks. I used a base of Chaos Black, then drybrush highlighted with Shadow Grey, and then Codex Grey. To keep this HISS distinct from the other one, I'm not going to muddy up the tracks. Now that the highlights are done, I am going to apply the stickers. The reason I do this before the weathering is that a lot of the stickers lay where I want to add weathering, and things like the "step" sign should look weathered too, particularly if people are stepping on it! Before applying stickers, make sure your fingertips are clean. The adhesive is strong enough to pull paint off your fingertips, which may interfere with the clean application of the stickers to the tank. Stickers can be difficult to line up. I use the tip of my knife to peel the stickers from the sheet and then carefully apply them to the tank. If your alignment is off, CAREFULLY peel the sticker away using a knife or tweezers. Note that the stickers are at least two layers; if the layers split you may end up pulling off the top layer (which is clear), taking the ink of the sticker with it. Unfortunately I had this happen on the driver's cockpit hatch on this HISS, but the upshot is that it just looks like it's weathered, so...A win for me. Again, my apologies for the poor focus. Better pictures will be coming in a few hours, when it's light out. This time around I'm going to go easy on the weathering. Since this tank is operating in an urban environment, it's not likely to encounter the kind of weather that would strip the paint off the hull. I'm going to apply just a bit of brown for dirt and the tinest bit of chainmail for the very few places that the paint might strip off. before weathering
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My B/S/T Feedback thread: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...-feedback.html Best Themesong EVER http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlUyq...eature=related Last edited by kfsps83; 07-09-2010 at 04:04 AM.. Reason: tutorial, hiss tank, paint |
07-09-2010, 03:59 AM | #4 |
a game designer
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sol III
Posts: 911
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To apply the metallic paint, just get a little dab on a dry brush and very gently apply it to wherever you want to have the bare metal look.
after weathering. I applied Chainmail to the edge of the wheels. Before bare metal look. after bare metal look. It was applied to the bottom corners; again, I know, the focus is lousy. I have limited the bare metal look to the steps and the edge of the cockpit, where hands and feet are likely to make contact while the pilot hoists himself into our out of the HISS. I was thinking of metal playground equipment: the bars kids climb up are always worn down to bare metal, while the rest of the paint job is usually intact. Note the bare metal look applied to just under the edge of the canopy; this is where I imagine the driver's boots would be scraping against the hull and wearing away the paint.
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My B/S/T Feedback thread: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...-feedback.html Best Themesong EVER http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlUyq...eature=related Last edited by kfsps83; 07-09-2010 at 04:09 AM.. Reason: tutorial, hiss tank, painting |
07-09-2010, 04:05 AM | #5 |
a game designer
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sol III
Posts: 911
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Next I will paint on exhaust residue. This can be done by dabbing black or dark grey onto the panelling just aft of the exhaust ports on the side of the tank. Don't overdo it, though. If the residue effect looks too dark or out of place, try lightening it up with some browns.
Exhaust! dirty More dirt! Dirt around the exposed parts of the top of the tank. In the above pics, I have painted brown in areas that might accumulate dirt or drip grease. And that's pretty much it! Someone asked what tools I used...To be honest, just what you saw in the first two pictures of this thread (knife, brushes, paint). Please feel free to ask questions or make observations in this thread. It's 1:14am. Later today, when it's light out, I'll post some quality pictures of the finished tank in this thread. Until then, take care!
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My B/S/T Feedback thread: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...-feedback.html Best Themesong EVER http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlUyq...eature=related Last edited by kfsps83; 07-09-2010 at 04:15 AM.. Reason: tutorial, painting, hiss tank |
07-09-2010, 04:15 AM | #6 |
a game designer
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sol III
Posts: 911
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Well, I should have reserved more than one post, but I forgot that you can only link 4 pictures per, so I combined a few into single images using...Paint. Yeah. No photoshop on this machine yet. x.x
Side by side of the tracks and hull. Note the bare metal look on the edge of the canopy, where crew members would be hoisting themselves into the tank while the hatch is up. The elevator chassis. This was painted using drybrushing only. Side by side of the exterior and the gun mounts. I didn't mention it in the tutorial, but the ammo belt was basecoated with Chainmail and then Burnished Gold was applied to the 'brass' portions of the ammo. This is the one time I would say it's good to use metallic paint as a basecoat. Although Burnished Gold is a very bright color, on black basecoats it shows up very dark, as you can see on the ammo belt in the pics of the first HISS I did. I like them both, but I think that the color scheme of the desert HISS lends itself better to showing bare-metal weathering. What do you think? Thanks for looking, guys! I hope this has been informative.
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My B/S/T Feedback thread: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...-feedback.html Best Themesong EVER http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlUyq...eature=related Last edited by kfsps83; 07-09-2010 at 01:36 PM.. Reason: hiss tank, custom, tutorial, painting, paint |
07-09-2010, 06:24 AM | #7 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Edmonton, Canada
Posts: 9,585
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And here I thought I was the only one on this site to use citadel colour!
Awesome tutorial, it looks great. I've favorited this thread and will be coming back to it when I find one of these suckers.
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07-09-2010, 08:21 AM | #8 |
Merkin 4 the weekend!
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Sac-BR0-mento, California
Posts: 2,303
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Awesome tutorial man! Definitely going to use this as a model for when I paint mine.
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MY CUSTOM ARCHIVE: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...m-archive.html B/S/T List: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ml#post2322559 FEEDBACK: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...ml#post2319332 |
07-09-2010, 08:25 AM | #9 |
Ex-Pharisee
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: 742 Evergreen Terrace
Posts: 12,216
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I sooooo can't wait to find one of these. Thanks for the pics and the tutorial!
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Feedback thread: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...lyguy-1-a.html Jesus is my Lord and Savior!!! Www.startswithamousetravel.com |
07-09-2010, 01:47 PM | #10 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 3,932
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The result is just incredible.
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See my customs here http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...s-customs.html My Feedback http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...-feedback.html |
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