|
Community Links |
Social Groups |
Pictures & Albums |
Members List |
Search Forums |
Advanced Search |
Go to Page... |
|
Thread Tools |
03-07-2019, 10:57 PM | #11 |
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 10,010
|
Quote:
Honestly from all my experiences, I find citadel to wear off fairly easy and don't recommend it. Maybe its cause I play with and pose my figures a little more than others but it certainly does chip off easy.
I HIGHLY recommend using MODEL MASTER ACRYL. I think its by Testors. When I got into customs about ten years ago, I asked all the pros on here and they all recommended this and I've been using it ever since. Works great for me and doesn't chip off. |
03-07-2019, 10:57 PM | #12 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: MA
Posts: 216
|
cheap and easy Tamiya clear. You dont need a lot to cover. If you are painting joints be mindful that paint will make them stiffer/tighter so you may need to gently sand them before painting.
check out a decent wiki here for customizing: Customizing Guide - JCWiki https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Polyca...s%2C138&sr=8-4 |
03-07-2019, 11:13 PM | #13 |
Cobra Lab Rat
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: California
Posts: 3,042
|
Quote:
To answer your question I’ve used both Tamiya and Citadel. I found Citadel easier to work with on customs. To me Tamiya seem a little ‘runnier’ than Citadel. I found i needed more coats of Tamiya than Citadel. For a beginner i found Citadel far more forgiving in terms of covering areas easier and quicker. Regardless you will get a decent finish with both types.
Even when I got commissioned in the shop to paint Games Workshop minis, I tried to avoid Citadel paints. I actually prefer Tamiya paint being more runny to "THIN YOUR PAINTS!!!" https://1d4chan.org/images/6/69/2009_01_10_Fyrbrand.jpg Citadel is an all or nothing. You gotta use all of it once opened, or not use it at all since the bottles are terrible, there's enough for tons of minis but it never keeps long enough to be of use. I tried to avoid Enamel paints, Acrylic is better for almost anything. Enamel has a shiny look, so it's usage is niche. |
03-07-2019, 11:14 PM | #14 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 1,035
|
Use either Tamiya or Model Master Acryl as they adhere the best, failing those, Vallejo Game Color (which is formulated to be tough). If you can wait 24-72 hours between coats, the Vallejo Mecha line is very tough as well, but needs lots of cure time.
Tamiya and MM need good shaking and perhaps stirring for maximum strength. Tamiya will get you high with solvents and MM will get you high with ether! Vallejo will not get you high :p
__________________
Tarred and Feathered. Maybe even the ravings of a lunatic. You are on a Joe board after all. |
03-07-2019, 11:55 PM | #15 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
|
The paints I use, in the order I started to use them (all acrylic of course): Testors Model Master, Citadel, Vallejo, Tamiya. I added each as I found them available locally to me, based on testimonials from this and other forumns. I'll probably keep adding more as I here more positive experiences here (ie Reaper & Army Painter per RV88).
Rather than get a set from a specific brand, since you are just starting out, I say buy a bottle of a few brands above, each a different color of what you specifically want to do on a single or a few figures--just as a test ride of the whole painting experience to see if the whole process is worthwhile. I also say to buy not by brand, but by specific shade of color you looking for. Mixing for color is not recommended, only in that it is hard to remix to that hue if parts need repainting later (whether a day later or months later). That is the big reason I expand my brand palette--for specific tones I want. That is also why I like to check out the colors physically at a store. Also to have or get:
|
03-08-2019, 12:55 AM | #16 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Scotland
Posts: 57
|
Quote:
cheap and easy Tamiya clear. You dont need a lot to cover. If you are painting joints be mindful that paint will make them stiffer/tighter so you may need to gently sand them before painting.
check out a decent wiki here for customizing: Customizing Guide - JCWiki https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Polyca...s%2C138&sr=8-4 |
03-08-2019, 01:00 AM | #17 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Scotland
Posts: 57
|
Quote:
The paints I use, in the order I started to use them (all acrylic of course): Testors Model Master, Citadel, Vallejo, Tamiya. I added each as I found them available locally to me, based on testimonials from this and other forumns. I'll probably keep adding more as I here more positive experiences here (ie Reaper & Army Painter per RV88).
Rather than get a set from a specific brand, since you are just starting out, I say buy a bottle of a few brands above, each a different color of what you specifically want to do on a single or a few figures--just as a test ride of the whole painting experience to see if the whole process is worthwhile. I also say to buy not by brand, but by specific shade of color you looking for. Mixing for color is not recommended, only in that it is hard to remix to that hue if parts need repainting later (whether a day later or months later). That is the big reason I expand my brand palette--for specific tones I want. That is also why I like to check out the colors physically at a store. Also to have or get:
Is primer advisable, it seems some don't bother with it? The Jin tutorial said that testers doesn't need it but Vallejo and citadel does? *confused* What do you use for a varnish/clear (if any). Candy, alcohol and pliers - check, check and check! |
03-08-2019, 02:16 AM | #18 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
|
Quote:
Thanks, I'll do that and order a few brands. I have some grey DG dukes to experiment with...
Is primer advisable, it seems some don't bother with it? The Jin tutorial said that testers doesn't need it but Vallejo and citadel does? *confused* What do you use for a varnish/clear (if any). Candy, alcohol and pliers - check, check and check! For Valejo and Citadel, I agree with Jin, and wish I had heeded this advice when first using these brands. When painting Wild Weasel red, I didn't like the reds available from Testors so I had to go to with Vallejo or Citadel. The primer coat made applying the red a lot easier and made the color really pop, and required less red layers for a uniform look. But those brands also needed additional clear varnish coats to keep from normal paint rub just due to figure handling. So the downside of these paints is overall number of painting applications required counting the primer and finish (also making the joints more susceptable to paint rub due to net paint buildup). Testors Model Masters seems to require less total paint applications by eliminating the primer, and only needed slight clear finish to increase or knock down glossiness. Regarding Tamiya, I am still learning to master this brand. I think I don't shake and mix enough before using, and don't know the best amount of water to mix in. As a result, I get uneven consistency, which also seems to vary per jar and/or color. The bigger thing I can't manage is the finish or brightness. When the paint dries, its seems a lot different in brightness or darkness than in the jar (I think they dry darker, from my first experiences on my O13 25th Clutch). Also, the finish is super flat (zero sheen) when it first dries. But when you rub down the pieces with your fingers a little, the natural oils and moisture of your fingers makes the piece shiny--almost too shiny. So it is hard to get a sense of what Tamiya paints sheen really is, and what clear finish is needed for the final desired look. If anyone has any more info regarding Tamiya, I'm definitely listening, as I like the colors and opaqueness. And smell... |
03-08-2019, 03:12 AM | #19 |
Soldier of Misfortune
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Out of direct sunlight
Posts: 4,014
|
I've only used Tamiya acrylics so far. So I can't give a comparative analysis. But I am enjoying it for the most part. A few observations:
__________________
"Wazard" with an "A" Currently trying to sell off a ton of my Joe collection, across all eras, and some other odds and ends. Please take a look! B/S/T B/S/T Feedback My 3D-printed battlefield props and dio accessories thread (mostly on hiatus) Photo albums on Flickr: Battlefield/Diorama/Scenery Accessories Weapons Restoration & mod parts "WHY is HissTank?" |
03-08-2019, 03:21 AM | #20 |
Range Viper
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Joeverse
Posts: 10,474
|
Quote:
I've no problems using most Testors Model Masters without primer, but it probably depends on the original color you're painting over and the color of the new paint job. The primer paint might help when painting a lighter color over a dark original.
For Valejo and Citadel, I agree with Jin, and wish I had heeded this advice when first using these brands. When painting Wild Weasel red, I didn't like the reds available from Testors so I had to go to with Vallejo or Citadel. The primer coat made applying the red a lot easier and made the color really pop, and required less red layers for a uniform look. But those brands also needed additional clear varnish coats to keep from normal paint rub just due to figure handling. So the downside of these paints is overall number of painting applications required counting the primer and finish (also making the joints more susceptable to paint rub due to net paint buildup). Testors Model Masters seems to require less total paint applications by eliminating the primer, and only needed slight clear finish to increase or knock down glossiness. Regarding Tamiya, I am still learning to master this brand. I think I don't shake and mix enough before using, and don't know the best amount of water to mix in. As a result, I get uneven consistency, which also seems to vary per jar and/or color. The bigger thing I can't manage is the finish or brightness. When the paint dries, its seems a lot different in brightness or darkness than in the jar (I think they dry darker, from my first experiences on my O13 25th Clutch). Also, the finish is super flat (zero sheen) when it first dries. But when you rub down the pieces with your fingers a little, the natural oils and moisture of your fingers makes the piece shiny--almost too shiny. So it is hard to get a sense of what Tamiya paints sheen really is, and what clear finish is needed for the final desired look. If anyone has any more info regarding Tamiya, I'm definitely listening, as I like the colors and opaqueness. And smell...
__________________
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Questions Opinion on Tamiya Spray Paints | BIG BUFF | G.I. Joe Customs General Discussion | 5 | 04-04-2015 10:08 PM |
Questions Tamiya paints??? | SE 55 | G.I. Joe Customs General Discussion | 19 | 06-23-2011 12:22 AM |
Dioramas WIP Cobra Citadel | duneheritage | G.I. Joe Customs Works In Progress | 13 | 10-07-2010 09:10 PM |
Custom question: Citadel paint | NC Joe | G.I. Joe Customs General Discussion | 10 | 06-29-2009 11:58 AM |
|
|
Recent Off Topic Threads |
What song are you listening to? |
1:18 Airwolf kickstarter |
4" Fortnite from Jazwares |
JazWares 18th Halo |
Marvel Universe 3.75" figures |