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08-06-2018, 09:27 AM | #21 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 2,157
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Quote:
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09-18-2018, 09:59 AM | #22 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Virginia
Posts: 651
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This is awesome, I look forward to hearing how the ball bearings work out.
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__________________ My feedback: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...ck-thread.html My B/S/T List: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...erldr-bst.html |
10-16-2018, 11:18 AM | #23 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,402
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Hey, cool, someone else is trying to figure this particular puzzle out (I asked about magnets and the shelving earlier in the year).
Mine's still muddling along - I keep underestimating the size of magnets I need / can use with the stands. Initial tests show SOME adhesion, and they're definitely less prone to tipping than they are without the magnets, but it's not flawless. Still, pretty cool end result. |
10-16-2018, 12:20 PM | #24 |
A Makeupless Clown
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,270
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Since this thread has been brought back up, what became of the ball bearing test?
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Torso Adapters and Alternate Neck Pegs for MTF and BFS Figures Reproduction Vehicle Parts 3d-Printed Parts Gallery My BST Thread | My Feedback Thread | My Shapeways 3d Print Shop (1/18 scale creations) |
10-16-2018, 10:13 PM | #25 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
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Magnet study update 10/16/18:
Ball bearings: I bought a 25-pack of 3/32" chrome steel ball bearing offa the Amazon. They ended up being to small: needed to coat foot holes heavily with clear nail polish, and still slipped out. Also, has much less mass for magnetic attraction than previously used cut leg screws. Someone else is welcome to continue to explore the ball bearings (maybe bigger sizes), but it wasn't worth the waiting time and excess material for me to continue. Hollowed set screws: I never pursued and bought these. I didn't want to hassle with finding the right diameter and depth (especially since foot hole diameters and depths vary so much). Plus, I theorize that the lost mass of the hollowed screw would result in weaker magnetic attraction than the previous cut screws. Last, this idea was offered to resolve making the screws easier to remove--but the cut screws were found to be easy to remove, especially when heating the foot soft. Cut leg screws: Since these were successful in test runs, I went forward with this foot peg option for my updated O13 figures and T13 figures, and bought a hundred extra screws off ebar from an Asian seller. thread: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ngfang-13.html GiJoe_O13-13set-Classic25th_2018-0915dc by J Perez, on Flickr The figures stand fairly well. In some poses, they stand just as well as as with regular stands, depending on the pose, center of balance, and location of footpeg (fairly consisent with this particular set, but with others, that hole is all over the place). I can pic up this display stand with figures as posed and move them room to room at normal pace, with from two to no figures falling over. And they did fall over--since the magnets are locked in place, I can just float that figure over the approximate location and let the magnet tractor beam the figure in. Don't know if they'd survive a car ride, but again if they fall over, figures are easily reset. Best of all, the display and floors are nice and clean from stands--resulting in a cleaner display, but also giving me more freedom in positioning and spacing the figures on this narrow display stand. Still thinking of a use for all those cut screw heads... In the picture above, to get a nice filled out 16x9 photo, I had to get the back row guys crouching pretty low with Flash and Grand Slam heavily lurching forward. I was struggling to get this guys to stand in this position, so I tried a new option, detailed below: Footpeg magnets (new): When I started this magnet project study, from Hobby Lobby, I bought a pack of 1/8" diameter by 1/8" long tiny earth magnet pegs that were available right next to the other earth magnet disc packs. I mentioned these in earlier posts, and found that they were generally too wide in diameter for most modern Joe figures. However, I found that the peg-sized magnets can actually fit the Joe modern figures foot holes when the feet are well heated to softness with a hair dryer or hot water, and a little extra manual pressure. Also, for a lot of other figures (like some of my T13 figures), the foot holes were a little too large for the cut screw pegs, which made them more ideal for the peg-sized magnets. If the foot can accommodate the peg-sized magnet, this is the best way to go: the grip to the base is absolutely fantastic, and allows for more off-balancing posing than previous foot peg options. With a little digging online, I see that there are also 3/32" dia by 3/32" deep peg-size magnets available (though not from Hobby Lobby). I plan to buy a pack of these smaller size magnets in the near future, and will report back later. Here's my T13 Roadblock, set with one peg-sized in each foot: 20181016_192407 by J Perez, on Flickr The ideal foot peg location is at the center of the foot. Unfortunately, this and many other figures have the footpeg located way at the back of the foot. This is not good for resisting tipping backwards, but great for resisting tipping forwards as shown. I bought a bunch extra 1/4" dia disc magnets offa the Amazon and a much cheaper price than Hobby Lobby's price. But I noticed that the center of attraction for these discs were not centered to the disc--the poles seem way off compared to the Hobby Lobby ones. As a result, I recommend buying the Hobby Lobby ones (test and approved), or other sellers that clearly specify pole direction and location. But going back to those cheap magnets--they may actually help balance a figure is back heavly and whose foot peg is set way back at the foot heel. This Roadblock has that newer foot to ankle joinery found in the most recent and later figures. This joinery allows for better foot tilt but also had a terribly shallow footpeg (one that doesn't even accommodate normal stands). To solve the depth problem for normal foot pegs and for the peg-size magnets, remove the foot by heating, and drill the peg hole all the way through the foot. The new hole is never really visible when reattached to the leg. Why Hasbro didn't just do this in the first place is beyond by understanding. Pic of peg magnets installed: 20181016_192519 by J Perez, on Flickr Pic of deeper hole in foot, as well as size of peg magnet for reference 20181016_193043 by J Perez, on Flickr Foot on the right has magnet in place; magnet alone is in front of foot on right, couldn't keep it away from foot on right with magnet: For pic below, Roadblock and GungHo have peg-size magnets, all the rest have cut screw pegs for now (but will switch as many out for future pics): GiJoe_T13-13set_2018-0810ab by J Perez, on Flickr For future pics, go here: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...sfangfang.html Note: I am having trouble with Lady Jaye standing as successfully as all others, even with the magnets. Her peg holes are pretty short, so smaller cut screws, and small feet. Hopefully the smaller 3/32 peg magnets will help to improve this figure's magnetized stability. Currently I'm looking at these site for the magnets: http://titan-magnetics.com/product/c...2mm-n35-20pcs/ http://www.magnet4less.com/index.php?cPath=1_11 |
10-16-2018, 10:32 PM | #26 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
|
Quote:
Hey, cool, someone else is trying to figure this particular puzzle out (I asked about magnets and the shelving earlier in the year).
Mine's still muddling along - I keep underestimating the size of magnets I need / can use with the stands. Initial tests show SOME adhesion, and they're definitely less prone to tipping than they are without the magnets, but it's not flawless. Still, pretty cool end result. For your particular case, what exactly are you trying to do? Are you just trying to super-stabilize the stand? If so, I'm trying out an idea for that right now (heating up the glue gun)... |
10-17-2018, 12:11 AM | #27 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Kansas
Posts: 981
|
Quote:
I went back and found your thread, and putting a link here: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...they-work.html
For your particular case, what exactly are you trying to do? Are you just trying to super-stabilize the stand? If so, I'm trying out an idea for that right now (heating up the glue gun)... 20181016_213714 by J Perez, on Flickr 1. Get a clear acrylic box like above. Or something similar (clear thin lid) 2. Locate 1/8" thick magnets on top and bottom of lid. For the test, I was looking at testing the power of the smallest magnets, and the least amount. You'll want at least a pair of locations, one pair at front and back of stand for preventing tipping over forward or backward. Magnets on inside of lid are merely to hold the top side magnets in desired location//formation. Any disc or magnet diameter will do, as long as thickness EQUALS 1/8" or 3mm. 2. You can flip the lid open and move the magnets around for best positioning (advantage of the see-through//clear box lid). 3. Magnets at the top side of the clear box will end up being glued in place to the stand--magnets should be located to avoid raised imprint text located on the bottom of the stand so that they remain flush and the figure stand can lay flat on the shelf. 4. Add a dab of superglue to the top of the magnets on the topside//outside of the box lid [I tried hot glue, but wasn't strong enough to hold magnets--magnets glued to the lid ripped off by attraction to each other--though honestly I didn't wait around very long]. 20181016_214643 by J Perez, on Flickr 5. Take the stand, and press firmly on top of lid and top side magnets. Hold til dry. Then remove figure stand, with magnet glued in place to the bottom of stand. 6. Test it out! Place magnets on bottom side of shelf stand. If not strong enough, glue in more locations, and/or use larger magnet diameters (1/4 or 1/2). Also, for magnets at the bottom side, you can stack as many discs//pegs as needed for clamping power. Below are a few pics of the basic test, minimal earth magnetic power (4 1/8" dia magnets total). 20181016_215045 by J Perez, on Flickr 20181016_215706 by J Perez, on Flickr The next quick test was to try a thicker "shelf" material, in this case one of my display racks. For this test, the minimum mag power was not strong enough to hold this position, so on the rack backside, I upgraded to two 1/4" dia discs, stacked at each location below the 1/8" dia disc previously glued to stand. So below, 6 magnets total, (2) 1/8" glued to stand, (4) 1/4" at backside of rack//shelf: 20181016_221155 by J Perez, on Flickr For this configuration, the figure/stand was stable, but not particularly strong, and would likely tip with a shake of the system (though in the upright position, the figure's gravity and weight wouldn't add to the tipping force as it is here, and would actually help to stabize against tipping). In any case, gluing larger or more 1/8" magnets to the bottom of the stand (say 2 front, 2 back) would make the system much stronger. Also, when trying this on the thicker horizontal surface of the rack (with the in-place rubber lining mat), clamp was a lot weaker--and more/larger magnets are definitely needed. Geoff, looking at the stand you may be using, I would maybe use at least (6) 1/4" dia x 1/8" thick magnets, with 3 glued locations per stand and matching magnets below the rack, doubling and stacking more below each location as required. Process for gluing on the magnets is the same as described above. If this is the direction you end up going, and you do a test stand, please post you results in your thread, and maybe link back here. Thanks! NOTE: The figure used in this tests and in the photos is a work in progress traditional Falcon--just testing out the head, harness, and neck piece (with torso collar shaved downed for better fit). I want arms with no shoulder armor among other things, and play around with this figure between other projects with no real timetable for completing him. |
10-17-2018, 04:09 PM | #28 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,402
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Awesome. Yeah, I'll play around with the idea some more. I think I'm gonna have a LOT of gluing in my future....
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10-17-2018, 04:28 PM | #29 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 330
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Inspirational stuff! Keep up the great work guys.
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12-11-2018, 01:58 PM | #30 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Toronto
Posts: 2,402
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Finally got my magnets in from Aliexpress' sale.
The good news is that this works VERY well for my purposes with 25th stands. All you need to do is glue two 1mm thick magnets to your shelf (has to be on the upper surface, however), let those dry, then place 1 or 2 magnets on top of the stand. I used 8mm diameter magnets but 12mms appear to work just as well in the "gaps" in the stand. The cavity in the bottom of the 25th stand easily holds the magnets, and it prevents all but the most aggressive actions (EG, physically picking up the shelf and tipping it) from tipping over the figures. You can glue the magnet to the stand for even more stability (otherwise it has a tendency to fly off when you're re-arranging the figures), although I can see not wanting to if you don't want to mess up your stands. But I tested this with one of the most unstable figures I know - Jungle Viper - and it worked well. Last edited by GeoffDes; 12-12-2018 at 01:26 PM.. |
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