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02-23-2018, 12:45 AM | #1 |
Filecard Maker
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,300
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Working on a custom could use a tutorial or advice on completely disassembling a Rattler.
I mean seriously...like even taking out the cockpit disassembly. That hull is seemingly fused together. |
02-25-2018, 09:53 AM | #2 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,915
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i've done a few and it can be a pain because the halves snap together. its hard to explain but i would suggested going to yojoe and looking at the directions and do them backwards.
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02-25-2018, 10:10 AM | #3 |
twitter viper
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: SD
Posts: 4,909
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__________________
Take a load off and watch some GIJOE videos. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYF...fZnzjMATv1_JGg That's the way the Pogo Ballistic Battle Ball bounces. |
03-24-2018, 01:10 PM | #4 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Spring Branch, TX
Posts: 120
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Not sure if this is helpful at all, but one that I decided to try this one was not very salvageable anyway. Also to note is this too nearly a week to do, as you will have to walk away after fighting with it without totally going Hulk on it. Some days you will only get a few inches of progress battling it all day. All I can say is Cobra should have kicked the snot out of Joe, as there vehicles were so much tougher. Also do not attempt this if you are looking for something without stress marks, as the blue plastic at the end of this epic battle will not be stress mark free no matter how careful you are. Also be warned that my attempt was not free of sections breaking. Nothing like the nose of the plane or something like that, but in the glued seam giving away and taking more on one side than the other, as the seams are thin. Might also get a few cracks form trying this.
Anyway, not sure if there are any tutorial on replacing the gun and front gear, but found them to be the easiest part in all of this to be done. Not going to get into detail on this. Also to attempt splitting the fuselage of course you will need to remove everything that is not glued to it. Should have took pictures. I used the hot/cold method to weaken the glue bonds. Though with any plastic too much heat will/can deform things if you are not careful. Also if you do not have a pot big enough to place the whole fuselage into, then you have to work in sections. Also ask before doing this, as the female folk of the house get crazy when you use thing to cook food in for things like this. Though its straight forward in just heat area. Then apply force to heated glue bond by ether pushing/pulling seam. Not too much, as this can be done with only your hands. Then apply cold by placing in freezer, then repeat with push/pull seam again. You will do this all around the entire fuselage making sure all seams are free along the outside. As the next part is the most difficult and will require cutting, if they don't free themselves. This next step will be much of the same hot then cold, but you will have to apply force and pry apart little by little and carefully not to get carried away with ether too much heat and/or force. I didn't deform anything on my attempt, but did get a few cracks where I didn't want any to be. Though did get 3 of the big glued pins/pegs inside of fuselage to free up, but gave up when the cracks started and just cut the last few free. If you try this and have any questions feel free to drop me a line. momaw nadon |
03-24-2018, 07:33 PM | #5 |
Christian Soldier
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,245
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Hey Momaw, , any tips on taking off the rubber nose and tail parts, and the under belly, and the rings on the back engine?
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I submit to You, Lord. I lay it at your feet. Turner's Customs Sell Thread Feedback |
03-24-2018, 10:37 PM | #6 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Spring Branch, TX
Posts: 120
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The rubber pieces are easy. If they are a little stiff, all you need to do would be heat some water in the microwave. Let sit for a few and just pop off. They water doesn't have to be boiling, but should be about as hot as a cup of coffee or more. Don't need to worry about damage as you only need a minute or 2 in the water.
Belly pan can be a pain, watch that video above as they take it off to replace the rear gear. Not sure I would be able to talk you though it without pictures. The rings are held on with the clip pin things. You need to depress the pin inward as you work on popping it off. If I remember the space between those pin clip things are not very big, so you will not have much worry on pressing them together too much to break them, but you have the other worry in not being able to get them depressed enough to pop it without breaking them. They can be tricky and you should use some form of padding on the tools you use. I would think that Retroblasting from Youtube would have a video something similar. Hope that helps, momaw nadon |
03-24-2018, 10:54 PM | #7 |
Christian Soldier
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,245
|
Thanks man
__________________
I submit to You, Lord. I lay it at your feet. Turner's Customs Sell Thread Feedback |
03-25-2018, 11:11 AM | #8 |
Christian Soldier
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,245
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The front and rear nose cones came off using a flat scoring knife covered in painters tape and a small flat head screwdriver. The ring on the front of the rear engine came off, and the underbelly (worked at the area where the side lights had been). The rear ring of the rear engine is the last one that needs doing. I couldn’t seem to find my needle nose pliers to pinch the peg together, however it looked pretty close together when I was putting pressure on the ring. Maybe I’ll try heating it up with a hairdryer (I usually use the hairdryer on modern figures rather than boiling water so maybe that would do it).
__________________
I submit to You, Lord. I lay it at your feet. Turner's Customs Sell Thread Feedback |
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