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10-18-2017, 03:53 PM | #1 |
A Makeupless Clown
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 5,232
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OK, so if you're like me, then you get irritated at a lot of Marvel figures with ball-hinged leg/thigh connections. You can't move the legs both forward/backward AND in/out at the same time. Frustration abounds.
So here's a way to fix it... First, do the old "boil-and-pop" thing on the upper torso to remove it from the lower torso. Once you have the upper torso out of the way you will be able to crack the lower torso... Once you have cracked open the lower torso you will see something basically like this: Get those out legs out of the way, find a "donor" T-bar and set of legs, and get out your Dremel. You have two options for this replacement. The first (and FAR easier) method is to cut the top of the T-bar off: And just drill a hole straight through the lower torso in the appropriate spot in the crotch, which will look something like this: This quick-and-dirty method will get your new legs installed with minimal effort. However, since the T-bar has no upper post there is nothing to keep the entire T-bar from rotating in the socket, which means moving one leg often means the other moves with it and the legs can slide a bit side-to-side. So if you want a bit better installation, leave the T-bar unmolested and get to work on your figure's lower torso. Your goal will end up turning what you see on the left, into what you see on the right: To start with, you will want to open up a channel for the upper post above the hole you would have drilled for the trimmed T-bar method mentioned above. When you're done it will look something like this: After that you will have a problem still from the large ball at the top of the T-bar. The torso halves (front and back) won't be able to close around the T-bar. To fix that, you will need to hollow out a bit of the inside of the lower torso halves (front and back) to allow the ball and T-bar to fit between them. You'll want to take this part slowly so that you don't take away too much material and end up with a loose fit around the T-bar (which would allow unwanted shifting of the T-bar). This is what my hollowing-out looked like: Once your fit is good, glue the lower torso back together: Put back together again, it will look like this: Then "boil/pop" the upper torso back on and enjoy your new-found freedom of leg movement.
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Torso Adapters and Alternate Neck Pegs for MTF and BFS Figures Reproduction Vehicle Parts 3d-Printed Parts Gallery My BST Thread | My Feedback Thread | My Shapeways 3d Print Shop (1/18 scale creations) Last edited by Zap Rowsdower; 10-18-2017 at 03:55 PM.. |
10-18-2017, 04:10 PM | #2 |
Not a mod
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: In the 1980's
Posts: 5,683
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Dammit, now I've gone and actually learned something today.
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10-18-2017, 04:15 PM | #3 |
H.A.T.E.
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Pocatello, Idaho
Posts: 635
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Great tutorial. If you are going to use the 1st method I recommend using the T-bar of an O-ring figure since they are much easier to obtain.
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