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11-04-2017, 07:48 AM | #21 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 14,780
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Well that's disappointing. Thanks for the review.
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11-04-2017, 12:58 PM | #22 |
Monster Maker
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA.
Posts: 2,061
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You are welcome!
There are some tricks I normally use that I didn't for the review that might make the paint more resilient like using a hair dryer to speed up the curing process and sealing the paint with a finish like "Mr. Hobby super clear." It is possible that with a bit of time the paint will cure even more but following the directions just didn't have the effect I was hoping for. Oh well, "Now you know..."
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Personal sculpting blog: http://monster-zer0.blogspot.com/ Hisstank threads I've started about sculpting... General Sculpting http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ut-sculpt.html RTV mold http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...-tutorial.html The last thing you will hear is the cracking of your vertebrae, One... By... One! |
12-08-2017, 05:56 AM | #23 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,915
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have you tried using an adhesion promotor on the part before you paint?
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12-08-2017, 06:17 PM | #24 |
Monster Maker
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA.
Posts: 2,061
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Quote:
Will adhesion promoter work with it? Possibly, thought the need for one was not suggested with the product. I will say that it's been weeks now and the paint still has a rubbery, grippy feel to it as if it has not cured entirely. I will be adding a Mr. Surfacer clear matte coat over the top to help with chipping and application of pigments but I am still not convinced that on it's own it can stand up to heavy handling without chipping. It would be interesting to see if an adhesion promoter would work but I am wary as everything I have seen is aerosol based and may not interact with the water based paint.
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Personal sculpting blog: http://monster-zer0.blogspot.com/ Hisstank threads I've started about sculpting... General Sculpting http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ut-sculpt.html RTV mold http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...-tutorial.html The last thing you will hear is the cracking of your vertebrae, One... By... One! |
12-11-2017, 04:28 AM | #25 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,915
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i manage a body shop so i got access to all the good stuff. i have used rattle can adhesion promoter on custom vehicles before that had some age to them just bc i wasnt sure the state of the plastic. idk if it helped or not but i didnt have any troubles with the paint. cant remmeber if ive used it on a figure as i dont do many figure customs. id say it cant hurt to try on a scrap part?
when i get paint that will leave the part tacky i use floor wax (i think its pledge future or something like that i dont remember but the bottle goes a long way). i put it in the air brush and dust the parts. this usually works well. i have used clear coats before but its always been a roll of the dice. i've had clears react funny and ruin a custom. even if its the same brand paint and clear. then i have to spend hours sanding the parts down to try something else. the floor wax hasnt reacted with anything yet. might give that a try and see? thanks for your updates on this. i had such high hopes for the paint but i guess its just like all the rest. in the body shop we paint plastics all the time and i get some of the left over paint if its a color i like since its very hard for my guy to mix up a tiny tiny batch for vehicle especially for a figure but you can check with a local body shop for left overs. typically it just gets trashed into a recycle bin, im sure they would sell you some leftovers and make some money back off it. or what i have done also is get touch up paint for cars, thin the hell out of it and spray it from my airbrush. those you can get anywhere. |
12-12-2017, 10:43 AM | #26 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: florida U.S.A
Posts: 347
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I guess a non chipping water based paint is like warp 10. "Theoretically impossible". Thanks for your effort Reven its appreciated.
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01-17-2018, 01:23 AM | #27 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 1,035
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Quote:
No I did not, I wanted to give as close to an accurate review of the product directly as I could by following the directions of the product, so that meant using the paint right out of the bottle with no dilution like water or airbrush reducers. The only thing I did do was give the parts a washing in soap and water to remove any gunk on the parts a few days before the paint application.
Will adhesion promoter work with it? Possibly, thought the need for one was not suggested with the product. I will say that it's been weeks now and the paint still has a rubbery, grippy feel to it as if it has not cured entirely. I will be adding a Mr. Surfacer clear matte coat over the top to help with chipping and application of pigments but I am still not convinced that on it's own it can stand up to heavy handling without chipping. It would be interesting to see if an adhesion promoter would work but I am wary as everything I have seen is aerosol based and may not interact with the water based paint. |
01-17-2018, 10:18 AM | #28 |
WE COMMAND.
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Hasbro Land, Rhode Island
Posts: 1,429
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Merge with this thread: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...em-around.html
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