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08-17-2017, 04:49 AM | #11 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 14,837
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Thanks!!! I await your review of the paint and to see if it solves joint rub!!!
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08-28-2017, 04:25 AM | #12 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,915
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awesome news. my local hobby shop is great, im going to email them and ask if he is going to carry them.
i almost always use the tamiya paints because they self level and mix well and thin easy for my airbrush or paint gun. my back up is testors, tho my hobby shop guy thinks i'm nuts for airbrushing with it. he says it's to hard to thin properly but if you know how to do it its very easy. i'd love to give this stuff a try. seems like its a plug and play thing. i've used every kinda of paint you can think of from water based, to lacquers, and solvents. they all have their issues when it comes to models. if this is going to stick and not chip id just got with this always. i manage a large body shop and have access to any paint or color you can think of and use them sometimes if there is left overs that would be trashed anyway but mostly i use the tamiya stuff. having access to high end equipment my customs are painted with a cheap double action Testors air brush you can get at any hobby store or online. if your not an airbrusher for a living you dont need anything expensive or fancy and chances are your going to drop this thing, bang it around, etc so get something cheap. i like double action the best because i can control paint and airflow with the touch of a finger. i dont have to zoom in or out with the airbrush. and they have diffent sized jars for bigger jobs. an average size joe vehicle i can get with one large jar. i keep the old tamiya jars and put the thinned airbrush paint in there for use later. biggest thing with this airbrush is it has an external jar that plugs into it so when you set it down be very careful it does not fall over, or unplug the jar so it dont. if the gun falls you may damage the needle. if your good with a file you can usually fix it, ask me how i know lol. the other big thing is as soon as your done clean this thing. take it apart,its super simple, and takes a few seconds. but that goes for any airbrush really. even if i am doing a second coat or another color and i know the gun will be sitting for awhile. pull the needle and wash it off along with the spring. clogs suck! your not painting when you want to or you will get spatters. and check the paint you are using. no clumps of any kind. this will stop up a airbrush gun and have you pissed in seconds. keep an eye on your jars paint level. you get to close to running out and you will get spatters. i take the airbrush apart when storing it so i dont damage the needle. the needle, the spring, and the tip i put in an empty airbrush paint jar so its secured and i know where it is. toss everything in a big zip lock and put it on the shelf. airbrushing is great. it lays down a super thin and even coat. i used it on vehicles and figures. any air compressor will work you dont need one made just for an airbrush. i got a small i think its 3 gallon one cheap at xmas time. its small and portable so if i want to paint outside i just grab it. i dont have to link a bunch of hoses's together. i can take it places easy to. plus it comes in handy around the house so its a win win. make sure you have a pressure regulator. you do not want to run 100 psi through a airbrush gun. read the manual for your gun it will tell you its tolerances. mine is 20-40 psi, i run it at 30 because of the flow rate of my paint when i mix it how i like to. a water seperator is nice but not needed. my compressor isnt running all day enough to get major condensation in it. when i am done i open the release valvue and drain the air and leave the valvue open during storage. this eliminates condensation building inside causing damage to the tank and putting water in the line next time you use it. you may need an adapter to go from the gun to the compressor also but those are cheap and easy to get at harbor frieght or home depot, its a standard item for air comprsessors. just some random airbrush thoughts off the top of my head i though may help. any questions feel free to ask. Last edited by Voice of Reason; 08-28-2017 at 04:30 AM.. |
09-12-2017, 02:35 PM | #13 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 14,837
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So I just saw these at Hobbytown!!! Any updates on whether this holds up to joint wear?
I want to know before I invest in an airbrush. And VOR, thanks for the airbrush tips.
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09-14-2017, 02:09 PM | #14 |
Monster Maker
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA.
Posts: 2,061
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Quote:
I've got a project waiting for the rest of the paint to show up so once they arrive I'll try them out. Believe it or not the actual airbrush itself isn't as much as they used to be, as I mentioned before you can get them at Harbor Freight for about $20 USD, it's the air compressor that can get a bit expensive. You will want one with a reservoir tank otherwise the compressor will have to continually run. And playing around with the air pressure is something to keep in mind also; too high and you'll blast all the paint in no time and too low will lead to clogs. I highly suggest getting a cheap brush first just to get the hang of it, also to get an idea of how they work. You will need to get a good understanding of how to disassemble and reassemble the brush as well as recognizing where a problem in the air or paint flow is occurring if things start to get screwy. If a problem happens it can be incredibly frustrating trying to track the problem down but but if you stick with it the paint apps will be noticeably different.
__________________
Personal sculpting blog: http://monster-zer0.blogspot.com/ Hisstank threads I've started about sculpting... General Sculpting http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ut-sculpt.html RTV mold http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...-tutorial.html The last thing you will hear is the cracking of your vertebrae, One... By... One! |
09-30-2017, 03:46 AM | #15 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,915
|
Quote:
your welcome. try it and you will never go back to brushing big things again. i even like it for base coats on figures since it puts a thin coat down then add my details with a brush |
10-01-2017, 10:43 AM | #16 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,915
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any field testing to share??
Quote:
I just got some of my order in the mail yesterday, there is one caveat that was not listed in the original description and that is a 24 hour cure time for the paint. So that's going to really slow things down a lot but if I don't have to worry about joint rub again I'll take it.
I've got a project waiting for the rest of the paint to show up so once they arrive I'll try them out. Believe it or not the actual airbrush itself isn't as much as they used to be, as I mentioned before you can get them at Harbor Freight for about $20 USD, it's the air compressor that can get a bit expensive. You will want one with a reservoir tank otherwise the compressor will have to continually run. And playing around with the air pressure is something to keep in mind also; too high and you'll blast all the paint in no time and too low will lead to clogs. I highly suggest getting a cheap brush first just to get the hang of it, also to get an idea of how they work. You will need to get a good understanding of how to disassemble and reassemble the brush as well as recognizing where a problem in the air or paint flow is occurring if things start to get screwy. If a problem happens it can be incredibly frustrating trying to track the problem down but but if you stick with it the paint apps will be noticeably different. |
11-01-2017, 06:13 PM | #17 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 14,837
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Hey Raven. So does this paint work? Does it prevent joint rub? There are some online reviews showing that it holds up to scratching from toothpick, but I want to see if the joint paint holds up.
Thanks.
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11-02-2017, 04:04 AM | #18 |
Monster Maker
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA.
Posts: 2,061
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Uuuugh! Sorry for the late reply, there was a hold-up with my pre-order and I didn't get it in until early October, that and I've been caught up with a deadline for work so thank you for your continued interest and getting me off my ass to do this otherwise it probably would have been forever before I got motivated to get at it.
My current project I had set aside for this test is a 1:18th scale samurai themed Boba Fett made from a Legacy Boba Fett, anniversary Low Light and Anniversary Budo. I've taken apart the figure and done all the sanding on the joints to help cut down on the rub but knowing how things work there's always going to be some issue with the paint getting scraped off somewhere so we'll see if this paint can stand up to it. It's especially important to me for the paint to be able to withstand handling as I will be giving this to a friends for a present I and I don't want to be embarrassed by paint chipping off. 1: The paint is ready for the airbrush right out of the bottle. I tried out three different colors this evening and all were properly thinned down so that cuts down on the need to mix paint and thinner to get the right consistency. This also means that you need to be aware of your compressors air pressure, I normally operate at 20psi but dropped it down to 15psi for better coverage. Also since the paint is thin I suggest several coats instead of trying to cover it all in one shot. I don't know how using a regular brush with these paints works out yet but I'll find out later when I get to the detailing stage. 2: The color is vibrant. Even though I have only used a muted pallet of colors so far, (Stone Grey, Green Blue, Grey Sand) all the colors really pop which makes sense since these paints look to be mimicking Gundam colors and colors seem to play a heavy roll in the character concepts. I'll be doing ink washes and pigment applications to the primary paint colors to add depth but the colors on their own are nice and solid. 3: Coverage is smooth. No problems with clumping or gumming up the airbrush nozzle. The parts look evenly covered with no obscuring of the detail. It also seems to cover both plastic and cast resin parts equally well but we'll see if it has problem to adhering to the resin by tomorrow. 4: Smell. The paint does have a faint odor when used in the airbrush which means some kind of respirator or breather mask is a good idea. These paints are a water based acrylic which means they are less toxic then enamels but it's probably wise to prevent this stuff from getting into your lungs. One last thing you may want to get is a stand system for your parts to dry without touching them. I'm using kebab sticks with alligator clamps attached to the end that I stick into a block of insulation foam. That way I can be sure I don't get fingerprints in the paint job. I'll be checking out the parts tomorrow to see how they feel. Right now the test piece is a little tacky/rubbery and I am hoping it is just part of the curing process. Once the final coat is on and cured I'll begin to reassemble the figure and see how things hold up to moving around.
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Personal sculpting blog: http://monster-zer0.blogspot.com/ Hisstank threads I've started about sculpting... General Sculpting http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ut-sculpt.html RTV mold http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...-tutorial.html The last thing you will hear is the cracking of your vertebrae, One... By... One! Last edited by r3v3n63; 11-02-2017 at 04:08 AM.. |
11-02-2017, 05:51 AM | #19 |
Hisstank.Com General
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 14,837
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Thanks for the update Raven!!!!
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11-04-2017, 04:29 AM | #20 |
Monster Maker
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Vancouver, WA.
Posts: 2,061
|
Okey-Dokey, I've been messing around with the paints for the past few evenings and I think I can give a better review and so far it's not that good...
The bonuses that I mentioned before still stand and that is the colors are bright, ready to use out of the bottle, goes on smooth and it's pretty easy to clean up. But as far as being a tough paint it's no better then Testors Model master Acrylics line, it is more rugged then base coloring with Games Workshop colors but it still chips and scrapes on areas like knees, ankles, elbows and shoulders. The 24 hour cure time is a huge drawback and will probably turn people off about using it especially if they don'e read the directions first. So far it looks as if it adheres to ABS plastics and resin better then it does to the softer vinyl-like parts that biceps, forearms, and shins are made from and I honestly did not expect any real breakthrough with polypropylene parts so no big surprise there that it had issues. Painting out of the bottle is not the best either. Whatever they are using to thin the paint for the airbrush seems to have the opposite effect with regular brushes. It does not go on smooth and does seem to clump a bit. Keeping your brush moist is a big deal when working with these paints in that manner. The texture is odd too, even after sitting for the allotted time it still feels slightly rubbery. As a staple I would advise not investing in this as a core paint system. So far Testors Model Masters Acrylic and Tamiya brands are better in my opinion but the Mecha Color line would make for excellent highlight choices if using fade effects where you transition between colors. So if you are looking for something better then what's out on the market already for our hobby I don't think this is going to do much for you. It's a nice addition to what we have but I don't think it's going to replace it.
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Personal sculpting blog: http://monster-zer0.blogspot.com/ Hisstank threads I've started about sculpting... General Sculpting http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ut-sculpt.html RTV mold http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...-tutorial.html The last thing you will hear is the cracking of your vertebrae, One... By... One! Last edited by r3v3n63; 11-04-2017 at 04:31 AM.. |
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