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08-09-2017, 08:45 PM | #1 |
Hiss Tank Mechanic
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 63
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To say that I am an inexperienced novice would be understating it. I have never customized but always enjoyed others endeavors, occasionally even purchasing some on-line. I've been reading blogs and watching you-tube videos but nothing has been definitive for me. So I'm starting this thread in the hopes of getting some solid advice. I welcome all opinions. I'm going to start with vehicles and hopefully venture into figures eventually.
My first project is going to be a Cobra Stun that I'd like to customize as a Crimson Strike Stun for the 2009 Convention Set type figures. I'd like to paint it the same color as the 25th Anniversary Crimson Guard Uniforms, with dull silver and black accents. I have many questions such as: Spray Paint or Airbrush? Clear Coat afterwards or not? Krylon Fusion, Testors, or something else? How many coats for spray, how many coats for airbrush? Baby Oil or Novos for scratches and polish? Baby Oil or WD-40 for old sticker removal that won't be reused? What Techniques, what brushes for small spaces, what to avoid? Should Automotive Primer, or something else be used before I start with the chosen paint? I welcome all input. I'm completely clueless what the first steps should be and I don't want to screw this up. Thanks 'Tankers!
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08-09-2017, 09:38 PM | #2 |
I just want foam gliders.
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Tooele (two-willa), Utah
Posts: 18,727
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The good thing about vehicles is they are somewhat easy to repaint if you mess up, so don't worry too much about that.
I'm not a fan of spray paint only because I'm not very good at it, I end up missing areas or overspraying and end up with paint dripping off. So all my vehicle customs have been hand painted with small bottles of paint. To remove decals and their residual adhesives, I'd recommend Goo Gone. Just do not use it on anything clear like canopies or windows, it will cause it to haze. I've seen others use baby oil, I have yet to try it. I've since moved on to figures and the one thing I would suggest is clear coat, clear coat, clear coat! I use a flat clear coat. It makes the figure look better and helps with scratches and chips. Best advice... just give it a go and have fun.
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08-09-2017, 11:53 PM | #3 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: NW Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 880
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Joecustomswiki has many tips. Customizing Guide - JCWiki
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08-10-2017, 01:31 AM | #4 |
Red Guardian
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Independence, KS
Posts: 330
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I've used WD-40 on removing stickers. Using an airbrush or spray can is not the best, because if you start then stop and restart again, you'll end up with alittle light and dark areas and if you go alittle heavy, you'll get runs. I also use those little bottles of paint. On brushes, if you're putting details on it or small areas, use the arts and crafts type of paintbrushes, because they are useful for detailing and small areas. White paint primer works best if you're painting over a dark color, because depending on the color you're putting on it without the primer might make it look a shade darker than the ideal color you're wanting on it, also without the primer, you might end up putting a few coats of paint on it, because the color you're painting over will somewhat bleed thru and will tint the color you're putting on it. If you paint over 2 different colors that are right next to eachother, like one light and the other dark, then you might end up with a light and alittle dark of whatever color you plan on using. Clear coating it will protect your painted object from getting ruined by anything liquid like water and the best clear coat is what you would put on hard surface floors. The best paint to use is acrylic paint. Like Xerofall said, just give it a go and have fun, plus he's right about the canopies and windows.
Sorry that this is alittle lengthy and hope it helps.
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Red Guardian |
08-10-2017, 01:33 AM | #5 |
The Man You Know & Love
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: In The Middle of a Late Night Crew Orgy
Posts: 28,210
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I love customizing vehicles. I use the Krylon Fusion spray paint for plastics. It adheres very well. Like Xero said, clear coat, clear coat, clear coat! I only add additional coats of the paint color I'm spray painting with as needed. I purchased an old raggedy Stun and it only required one coat for me. To remove stickers I use rubbing alcohol.
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08-10-2017, 07:53 AM | #6 |
JARHEAD
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Grand Ledge, Michigan
Posts: 2,984
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Ok,
I have done to date a dozen vehicles, here is a short, to the point step list. 1. Rubbing alcohol to remove adhesive residue, used in small amounts with a fine cloth rag until residue is gone, then go over entire part to remove fine dust and debris. 2. Fully primer the piece your wanting to paint, I use self etching primer ( greenish gray ) for pieces I'm painting with a dark color such as black or OD Green. I use a flat white automotive primer for pieces I'm painting a lighter color ( white, yellow) 3. I use rattle can for paint work ( I hate brush strokes ) the trick is keeping the can 3-4 inches away from piece and apply two to three light coats to avoid running, also I allow each coat to dry at least an hour or two ( depending on the temp I'm painting in outside) Also if you are masking off any areas with masking tape be careful to get them out of the heat of the sun to dry or you risk getting the masking tape adhesive residue on your freshly painted piece. 4. For small details I use fine tip brushes ranging from needle tip to toothpick tip bristle fullness, you can pick these us at comic and hobby shops that have miniatures like warhammer or D&D parts. 5. As for paints, I always use acrylics, from Testors, to Tamyia. As for spray paint you can't go wrong with Krylon fusion. And yes I will agree and support strongly to CLEAR COAT the piece when done, I use a Testors dull coat to reduce shine. Hope this helps, and like the guys said, just have fun win it!!! |
08-10-2017, 08:13 AM | #7 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 562
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I use naphtha (old fashioned lighter fluid) to remove adhesive. It is quick and easy. It will clean up so fast that it won't even hurt the plastic.
I have used Krylon Fusion for plastic and love it. However, my more recent conversions I have used automotive spray paint. The color selection is much better. |
08-10-2017, 08:18 AM | #8 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 1,441
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I would also suggest Rustoleum 2X spray paints. They cover better than anything I've ever used. I use it on football helmets and figures. Like said above, don't feel like you have to cover on the first coat. Give it a light coat (Rustoleum will cover pretty well on the first), let it dry completely, then, if needed, go over it again.
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08-10-2017, 10:52 AM | #9 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Pflugerville, TX
Posts: 40
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I have a related question about spray paints.
I've noticed Krylon doesn't seem to be making the Fusion line anymore, but now the regular cans say they can be used on plastic. This seems to be the same with Rustoleum. What are your experiences with the "new" paints, do they bond as well as the Fusion did? |
08-10-2017, 11:11 AM | #10 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: KY
Posts: 1,683
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Quote:
I have a related question about spray paints.
I've noticed Krylon doesn't seem to be making the Fusion line anymore, but now the regular cans say they can be used on plastic. This seems to be the same with Rustoleum. What are your experiences with the "new" paints, do they bond as well as the Fusion did?
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