|06-26-2009, 11:39 PM||#1|
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Victoria, BC
Alright, here's a text version of the tutorial. It's all pretty straight forward, pictures will follow.
What you'll need:
- ball head pins
- round toothpicks
- masking tape
- **lego levers** (sorry to those who don't have them, but BrickLink Items For Sale - Parts - Category Lever can help you out. Or try using something else at this scale with a ball joint that fit's inside a 1:18 hand.
- pin vice. http://www.alwayshobbies.com/UserDat...s/003981_0.jpg
This is the one thing some of you might have to go and get. It's the best tool I've got in my arsenal. I use my pin vice for almost everything now, it's basically a hand dremel when you add some bits. Works great for fragile stuff like hollowing out helmets, or quickly drilling holes without getting the whole machine going. Ahem, anyways...
- drill bits: 1. toothpick sized (for the legs)
2. lever ball head sized (for the hands)
3. smaller one for pin ball head,
First, heat and remove hands and feet from figure.
A. Ball Jointed hands
- cut off the posts.
- using your drill bit that's the size of the lego lever, drill into the hand. you want to drill as near to the center bottom of the hand as the ball joint+ hole will allow. If you drill in the center of the hands on fists, it will look quite strange. Gloves work though.go too much in the center the hands will look a little strange from some angles.
- once you've drilled straight in, carefully drill in a small diagonal circle, in order to make a larger cavity inside the hand than the opening you drilled.
- test fit on a lever. don't put too much pressure on them sideways, because they will break.
- cut a lever to the length of the arm hole. Always cut it too long, and then cut it down to size.
- use a small strip of masking tape around the end of the lever to get it to fit in the existing arm hole. I put a dab of superglue on the last bit of tape and then twist it on
- Superglue the lever/tape post into arm holes.
optional - paint levers to match arm or hand colours. I usually paint them because they are noticeable, but I always do this before painting a figure, so it's never a problem.
- optional - Sometimes I drill a deeper hole, and I've noticed no difference between those that use the factory holes and those I've drilled deeper. The most important thing is getting the right amount of tape around the lever right at the cuff of the arm, so that when you're taking hands on and off the lever won't have too much give and snap.
I've had a few snap on me, I'll admit that up front.
But sometimes it's as easy as grabbing the stub of the lever with pliers and pulling it out of the superglued tape, or other times you just have to drill the old lever out, which is quite easy. Most of the time they've broken was when I wasn't being careful enough.
Ball Jointed Feet
Ball joint post:
- take a toothpick and cut most of the pointy ends off. The idea is to get a snug fit in the pin hole you'll drill by making it a bit smaller than the toothpick and jamming it in there with superglue.
- Find two pin head the same colour or close to the colour of the feet your're using.
- bend them into "L's" and pull the pin out of the plastic.
- drill holes just smaller than the toothpicks
- superglue the balls onto both ends of the toothpick and then cut the toothpick in half. Do not trim yet.
- slice the posts holding the discs in the feet with a knife, being careful not to cut anything but the post.
- pull the disc out and cut off the post that used to attach it to the leg. Cut it a little bit flat so you'll have something to drill into. Cut only a little bit off. If you cut too much you might not be able to hide the joint.
- superglue the disc back into the foot with the flat part on top. The idea is to fuse the foot into one mass that you can then drill into. I generally use a lot of glue and then squeeze the sides together, just wipe it off the excess glue quickly with my fingers.
- let dry for about and hour. If you're patient, or have different glue, let it dry for as long as you like/the glue needs.
- using your drillbit that's just about the size of the pin head drill a hole down into the center of the foot.
- I bought a dremel bit ((Dremel 107) which I paid way too much for, because I found it here for $3: Dremel Engraving Cutter, 3/32" # 107 by Dremel) that i use inside the foot, to make it a little bit bigger than the hole. The diagonal circle method from the hands might work as well.
The trick with the feet is not to get them to look too stretched with the ball joint inside, so you need to carefully carve away inside the foot.
- use your ball joint posts to test the fit of the holes you're drilling
- when they fit together snugly, you're done [color=red]If your hole is too big, use some superglue and work it into the joint and then pulling the ball joint out so they can dry separately, then testing them again. You can build up layers this way.
- drill a hole in the legs for the toothpicks,
- put the feet on the ball joints, and trim the toothpicks posts down a bit until the feet fit perfectly with the holes you;ve drilled in the legs
- use some masking tape if the toothpicks aren't tight in the holes.
- super glue.
You can paint the posts if you feel like they're too noticable. I just went ahead and bought about 40 levers, took 20 of them and put them between two layers of duct tape so i could handle the whole lot, and painted them all up with a few layers of fleshtone and sealed them. Some are rubbing, and some aren't. It depends on the how hard the plastic in the hands is.
I'm sure I'll think of more to add to this. I'm off to take some pictures of the process in action thanks to some packages received from some kind Hisstankers.
My b/s/t: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...ack-loose.html
My feedback: http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...-feedback.html
|04-07-2012, 09:38 PM||#2|
Join Date: Jun 2009
this is great information. i know this thread is old as dirt. but i just ran across it. very excited to try this out.
Metroglobal Edict Enforcement Committee Squad
link to all my customs: http://www.flickr.com/photos/46779949@N08/
|04-07-2012, 09:47 PM||#3|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: NW Tennessee
Wow, 3 years and no one replied. Great info and I will also try this out of I get the chance.
|04-07-2012, 10:25 PM||#4|
Join Date: Oct 2008
If you guys try it out, post some pics or a video on YouTube. This information is fantastic, but I'm more of a visual learner, so I'd like to see it before I start hacking away at hands and feet.
|04-07-2012, 10:32 PM||#5|
Join Date: Mar 2008
Yeah... I don't think I'd try to "angle cut" any holes. The idea sounds ok, but the usable range of motion will not be as great as drilling the hand-hole straight on. A straight hole gives the extra space for the hand to pivot around the ball to a greater extent.
I've been doing it since 2005/6 roughly... has never failed me.
For the feet, the "rocker" ankles are much better to have AND are really easy to make - imo. Although you do need the pivot w/peg donor parts. Newer MU ankles are perfect, as are the Ren Scarlett ankles. But... to each their own.
|04-07-2012, 10:45 PM||#6|
Join Date: May 2011
Another option for the hands are the shoulders from the Human Alliance TF humans (I think). I'm going to try it in about a week when I get some more mold stuff.
Come check out the newest customs site Vortious Custom Accessories Customizers, and Collectors of all scales welcome
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