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04-02-2010, 02:05 PM | #821 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Philippines
Posts: 506
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That's a great idea !!! It would look god as a command station for the Flagg
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04-02-2010, 06:58 PM | #822 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: new york
Posts: 508
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I am in New York, to get to Wayne is a pain in the Arse having to take the Cross Bronx which really should be named the Constantly Broke, and then going over the G.W.B. Buttttt if it's that good I might have to take a peek over the summer on a weekend. We'll see maybe I'll get some other toy geeks to go with me lol.
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04-02-2010, 09:51 PM | #823 |
Red Two
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: 村八分
Posts: 1,025
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Looking good, Zoomie! But instead of Danny, you might want to keep the Michelle Pfeiffer pic...
jpdraven - don't know if you've seen this, Instructions/Downloads - 6mmFlyRC.com I don't remember who exactly posted it, but it might be what you're looking for. |
04-03-2010, 02:41 AM | #824 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: new york
Posts: 508
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Quote:
Looking good, Zoomie! But instead of Danny, you might want to keep the Michelle Pfeiffer pic...
jpdraven - don't know if you've seen this, Instructions/Downloads - 6mmFlyRC.com I don't remember who exactly posted it, but it might be what you're looking for. Clear decal paper is what most people are using. In reality I needs to find an ALPS color printer that can print in white. With that printer I could make phenomenal decals. Making your own decals on an inkjet or laser printer doesn't always render great results. Truth be told I might have to resort to waterslide decals which I don't want to use BUT always could. It just takes so much friggin time to use those. Another option is using my airbrush that funny enough I need a compressor for to stencil certain graphics like tail fin graphics. The clear decal paper would be awesome for lettering type decals, rescue decals, beware of blast, no step, Carrier F-14 is stationed on EX: USS ENTERPRISE, and the BUNO numbers. I very well might go for a combination of things. LASTLY and probably most important is sealing the decals with the plane. I figure after the decals are on the aircraft I can seal it with a matte finish clearcoat, a few coats of it. Dunno yet, have to "experiment" lol |
04-03-2010, 02:56 AM | #825 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: new york
Posts: 508
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[QUOTE=Skipper;1536026]Thanks JPDraven, that would be cool as hell to have the proper exhaust cowls, it would amp up an already cool jet.
Skipper my man I think it'd be really cool to have GE 110 Exhaust for the Skystriker. In any real VF F-14 Carrier wing there were a mix of F-14A F-14B and F-14D's. The only noticeable outer difference between an F-14A and f-14B are the Exhaust Nozzles. The Chin Pod is identical on both models. The F-14D has an updated dual Chin Pod, the GE-110 Engines with the cooler Turkey Wing Exhaust Nozzles, and some very small triangular and rectangular antenna just behind the cockpit. Other then that all the F-14D upgrades are internal in nature and don't matter for this project, HOWEVER I am gonna try to amp up the cockpit of the F-14's. I have been sketching plans to add a HUD and Stick for the pilot, and a HUD, control panel, and Stick for the RIO or Radar Intercept Officer. If the True Heroes F-18 can have this there is NO reason why the SkyStriker can't. Could it be a molded piece? maybeeee. I am going to totally cheat and get a 1:32 model kit, hopefully something open or beat up and see if I can take the cockpit and retool it to fit on the skystriker. I figure if it can be reduced in width to fit and cut into 2 pieces to extend it so you truly can fit 2 pilots in the plane that it can be glued in place from the inside. Since the skystriker is going to be taken apart for painting, I could in essence seal it with that autobody bondo that comes in the small yellow tube... can't remember what it's called offhand. Also ther is one more addition I am almost certainly gonna have to do... The Cockpit Glass on the real F-14 is actually 2 pieces of which only 3/4 of the glass actually opens, the very front section is a permanent fixture to the front of the plane that the pilot's HUD is located under. The skystriker has that cheesy control panel molded INTO the top section of the plane. I am going to have to dremel that out, then cut a cockpit glass in the correct spot, mount the NEW control panel and HUD and then mount the front glass permanently over the HUD. Can it be done? I AM SURE OF IT! Just really got to take my time. This is another reason why I want to make molds of certain parts like the cockpit glass. If I can effectively make a 2 piece cockpit glass assembly that is EASY to glue in place then that is going to to make a very big difference in how the plane looks. I really don;t wanna screw with original cockpits if I can avoid it, they're too hard to come by to start chopping them up. Skystriker shells I can get for $15 bucks a pop, that's nothing and don't mind doing some exploratory cutting and sanding to those. I need a caring soul to donate some cockpit parts from 1:32 scale models for me. F-14 and F-18 2 seater cockpits would work. Ejection seats I can make buy or modify to look like F-14 Ejection Seats. Not worried if seats look a little different no ones ever gonna notice that. Now for the Easter Egg I wasn't gonna post about YET but just cannot help....... LED LIGHTS IN THE COCKPIT!!! I figure that LED lights could be placed in the model UNDER the cockpit assembly since it'll be installed with the airframe apart. SO EASY TO DO right? decide what's gonna light up, buttons just drill out with a tiny tiny tiny bit, under them glue a piece of colored transfer paper, red, blue, green, orange, yellow, purple even if U like. To make the radar and other screens light up you could basically cut those areas out and glue in colored plastic NOT transfer paper, OR make a small slit in the plastic where those screens live on the bottom o the screen, then overlay your colored plastic. I think you'd have to raise the colored plastic at least 1mm to get the light to shine through and light the displays up BUT that's easy. NOW for the HUD. The HUD lives up above the control panel and is trickier to pull off. I figure getting a solid piece of plastic that has some thickness to it. Where the HUD would mount to the top of the control panel you again create a slit BUT the HUD would slide into this slit just barely..... enough that the the light underneath WILL illuminate the Plastic if it has enough width to it. I can make a diagram of this if need be it's all in my head as we speak. Think about how they illuminate sheets of glass, they do it from the bottom up and the light filters through the glass giving it hues of the color being shown through it. You see this in bars and clubs a lot. If lighted HUD and such done work then I'll simply use colored transfer paper and a paint technique called under laying. Basically, paint the area white, then overlay the colored transfer paper. Since the background is white, the colored transfer paper's color will POP tremendously AND it'll be shiny and look like glass even being reflective in direct light! Yes I have really been thinking about this stuff. But it's the small details that make a project stand out so much more and I don;t mind sharing the ideas to people, that's how we all grow. Battery operated, with a toggle on off switch somewhere in the rear of the plane OR right up top next to the landing gear slide. I have not planned that out yet because I have not gotten to the cockpit or it's issues that are gonna arise in creating it, BUT how sick would that be!? I figure if all goes well I can devise lights on the skystriker somehow but it's gotta be clean, accurate, and affordable so it can be reproduced. Tail fins are too thin to add wiring grrrrrrrrrr........We'll see. LOTS OF PLANS, TONS OF RESEARCH, and slowly compiling the materials. Sometimes I wish I had help on this lol. I WANT the lighted cockpit and my guinea pig is going to be the True Heroes F-22 I have since it has a decent cockpit design and is still readily available here in Toys R Us and so are the Blackhawks, navy seal boat, the chopper that looks like the tomahawk, a small rubber seal boat and chopper, and a headquarters play set....and Big Lots here has the World Peacekeepers Outpost, u know that really cool house that comes with the bunk beds. A few people posted pics on here of it, and for $30 bucks it really was VERY VERY cool, but I have no use for it. Last edited by jpdraven; 04-03-2010 at 03:28 AM.. |
04-04-2010, 12:56 AM | #826 |
From Parts Unknown!
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 830
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Some interesting and tantalizing offers you have on the table, there. All of these things sound quite feasible, if not somewhat expensive and time-consuming to prototype. My only real concern with the Skystriker is that without a complete redesign of the ejection seats, you'll never get 25th Figures (with longer legs) into a Skystriker. O-ring Joes have little short stems, so they fit easily, but the newer figures (which are actually 4" as opposed to true 3 3/4") won't fit with the old seats.
The workaround, for which I incidentally have been planning, is to redesign the seats. The problem is that the Skystriker (like mentioned before) is 1/32 scale, so space is at a premium. I have a few ideas on how to make 25th figures fit, but it's going to take some hands-on sculpting to make it a reality. If you already have a workaround, I'm glad, because I might avail your services in the long run to save myself time...
__________________
"Often imitated, Never Duplicated, Always Lubricated." |
04-05-2010, 11:40 PM | #827 |
From Parts Unknown!
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 830
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The elevators are, I think, the second most important part of the carrier. They're one of main inspirations for starting this project and they have to be functional and aesthetic. The motorized elevator, while impressive would have required much more complex engineering for which I really don't have the time or money. Still the elevator has turned out very well. Here is the finalized assembly of one of the rollers and stops.
I've already completed the other side and now decided to tackle the seemingly arduous task of attaching it to the carrier. I really had two options: Option #1 - Create a whole assembly that would be attached to a wooden frame and slide it under the carrier. When I have to move the carrier, the assembly would slide out from underneath and shipped separately. The obvious drawbacks are that the under supports would be compromised by necessary cutting to fit the entire frame. Also, this isn't a delicate solution, since you would more than likely be able to see the assembly or the seam created by a foam piece placed in front of it as a veneer. Option #2 - I could affix the rail to the foam itself, thereby never necessitating the removal of the rails. The elevator part could be removed for shipping or transport by running it out either the top or the bottom. The obvious drawback is strength. Some of these planes are fairly heavy (especially the F-18s), so I would need some way to make it strong enough to support at least a pound of force on a cantilever. Well, I knew that simply running a bolt through the foam would do nothing. The bolt would cut right through the foam with even a fraction of that force. Demonstrated here: *For the record, I actually did this just to see how much force it would take to rip through the foam. It took a fair amount, but too much for my 20:1 factor of safety. What to do...? Continued...
__________________
"Often imitated, Never Duplicated, Always Lubricated." |
04-05-2010, 11:50 PM | #828 |
Plastic Junkie
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Michigan
Posts: 803
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The only thing I can suggest for the bolt ripping through the foam is to use a shoulder washer. They come in various sizes, and materials. Keep up the good work on this beast.
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04-05-2010, 11:56 PM | #829 |
From Parts Unknown!
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: St Louis, MO
Posts: 830
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I would use the principle of the nails used to fasten extruded polystyrene to a structure. These nails come with a plastic washer around them to spread the force of the nail across a larger surface area.
I would use the same principle here, but I would experiment using an aluminum backing and lag bolt. The lag bolt was a little long, but it's late here and Lowe's is closed and incidentally no where near my house. I had to scour the house to find something that was long enough to go through 1 inch of polystyrene! Anyway, I do believe the results speak for themselves. *These are opposite sides of the piece of foam. Since the compression force of this polystyrene is very high (meaning it doesn't compress easily), this solution might work better since I can torque down these lag bolts (or any other kind of bolt) fairly tight, thus using that rigidity while dispersing the force of the bolt throughout the foam. Next acquisition will have to be 1-1/4" bolts now. Off to the store tomorrow. Hopefully, we will have an elevator assembled completely by Wednesday or Thursday.
__________________
"Often imitated, Never Duplicated, Always Lubricated." |
04-06-2010, 05:45 AM | #830 |
Iron Grenadier
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: new york
Posts: 508
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Quote:
Some interesting and tantalizing offers you have on the table, there. All of these things sound quite feasible, if not somewhat expensive and time-consuming to prototype. My only real concern with the Skystriker is that without a complete redesign of the ejection seats, you'll never get 25th Figures (with longer legs) into a Skystriker. O-ring Joes have little short stems, so they fit easily, but the newer figures (which are actually 4" as opposed to true 3 3/4") won't fit with the old seats.
The workaround, for which I incidentally have been planning, is to redesign the seats. The problem is that the Skystriker (like mentioned before) is 1/32 scale, so space is at a premium. I have a few ideas on how to make 25th figures fit, but it's going to take some hands-on sculpting to make it a reality. If you already have a workaround, I'm glad, because I might avail your services in the long run to save myself time... ZOOMIE I have a workaround. Involves MORE work lol BUT a sick end result. Private message me, we'll bump heads and you can tell me if you see the method to my madness lol |
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