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06-29-2012, 03:34 AM | #21 |
I.O. SpecOps
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: In a secret underground bunker.
Posts: 4,404
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Quote:
If you want to practice paint mixing, pick up a bunch of those cheap acrylic craft paints like they have at Walmart. They won't work at all for customs, but they're a helluva lot cheaper to practice with. It'll take some time before your color mixing gets good, but it'll happen if you keep at it.
Quote:
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Dr. Venture: Why is it every time I need to get somewhere, we get waylaid by jackassery? http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...r1s-b-s-t.html |
06-29-2012, 03:46 AM | #22 |
commander cobra
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: niceville florida
Posts: 286
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paint is my only problem just becuz im picky-O.C.D- don't look right and/or comes off too easy and i wanna do camo but cant lol
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06-29-2012, 06:36 AM | #23 |
Dreadnok Forefather
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Hiding out in the Jersey Swamps
Posts: 1,668
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Quote:
So I've done lots of research... and I'm ready to drop some money on my first set of paints. I've decided to go with Testors Acrylic paint. I'm reaching out to the tank for some help! I'm not finding that they sell primary color sets in flat. It seems primary are all gloss sets... how do you guys get your primary sets? Do you just buy an extra clear flat bottle? Does the extra layer effect the quality of the look? Or are there specific primary flat colors you use?
This is what I was thinking of starting out with: flat white (large?) flat black (large?) semi gloss black semi gloss clear flat clear flat olive drab skin tone light skin tone shadow steel leather Do these exist?: flat orange flat blue flat red flat green flat yellow I'm not really sure on my approach to my first set of colors, I know I want to paint details like buckles and guns and backpacks and then try a few figure repaints to see how it goes, I've seen glossy figure paints and I don't like their look so any recommendation would be greatly appreciated on what I should be getting!
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When the grape soda and chocolate donuts are gone, then you better get out of my way. "There is no such thing as a Dreadnok for awhile, the only 'Nok is a 'Nok for life." |
06-29-2012, 05:24 PM | #24 |
Proletariat Art Threat!
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 981
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You can buff flat MM to a shine, if you like. That is the bummer about MM... no flat primary.
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Custom Parts Wants: RoC Covert Ops Scarlett: Sword BST http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...loughbian.html Feedback http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...ml#post3654093 |
06-29-2012, 11:17 PM | #25 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: New York
Posts: 340
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Hey guys I got really excited and bought these three sets of testors paints I found from Michael's.. I didn't realize until I got home but TWO OF THEM are enamel paint and the other is acrylic. WHICH SUCKS! Because I thought I was lucky enough to find flat primary colors.... and it turns out they were enamel set, and now I'm stuck with just glossy acrylic colors :(
the enamel box says plastics and the photos of the military tank looks pretty good... but is enamel basically useless for GI JOE painting? :( Should I return the enamel stuff? Thanks for your help guys! |
06-29-2012, 11:31 PM | #26 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: New York
Posts: 340
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there was also this other brand called folklore acrylics... anyone have experience with those?
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06-29-2012, 11:54 PM | #27 |
Proletariat Art Threat!
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 981
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Folklore will rub of if you handle the figures to much. It's not a bad paint for dios and such. For that kind of paint I'd spend the extra cash and get Liquitex. You could use the enamels on weapons as acrylics don't stick to them very well. Really though, I recommend Model Masters for figures. I've compared it with Tamiya and other acrylics and it really is the best paint for it. Tamiya has great colors (flat red, blue and yellow included), but really seems more suited for metal, like die cast D&D miniatures and such. I went through this same dilemma myself getting started so I empathize. Save yourself some headaches and get Model Masters. You will be glad you did. Get their flat clear coat to de-gloss if you need to.
Also, you are gonna want a good 0 brush. I'd get a decent 3/0 too and maybe an 18/0 spotter for eyes though you can use the 0 for that. Good brushes are important.
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Custom Parts Wants: RoC Covert Ops Scarlett: Sword BST http://www.hisstank.com/forum/g-i-jo...loughbian.html Feedback http://www.hisstank.com/forum/buy-se...ml#post3654093 Last edited by TheWilloughbian; 06-29-2012 at 11:58 PM.. |
06-30-2012, 12:14 AM | #28 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: New York
Posts: 340
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Thanks Willoughbian!
I guess I got too excited at Michaels. Classic me. Alright I'm going to return all this stuff on my way back up to the city, and I'll just order model masters direct from their website.. the bottles are 1/2, which is cool cuz these testors are just 1/4. It's worth the extra dollar or two. Already scoping the brushes out thanks man! |
06-30-2012, 12:29 AM | #29 |
Cobra Viper
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: New York
Posts: 340
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Has anyone tried putting a flat clear coat on a gloss coat? do you just layer it over... and it removes the gloss? or you mix it in?
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06-30-2012, 01:04 AM | #30 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Echo Park
Posts: 1,632
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A very informative thread.
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