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09-08-2008, 03:13 PM | #1 |
Real Life Dreadnok!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: E'ville, IN
Posts: 230
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I've never used it, but I have used Sculpey...and Sculpey crumbles very easily once it's dry, especially small parts.
Is Green Stuff more durable? Does it completely harden? How easy is it to break once it's set? Anyone used both? What are the pros and cons, and which do you prefer? |
09-08-2008, 03:35 PM | #2 |
Plastic-Curves.com
Join Date: May 2008
Location: DeLand, Florida
Posts: 3,019
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I use Milliput epoxy. As I understand, it is similar to green stuff. Epoxies are much tougher than Sculpey. You can also do a lot better detailing than you can with Sculpey. I used Sculpey about 15 years ago. Then I tried the epoxy putties. I would never go back to Sculpey and would not recommend anyone use it on their custom work. Oh yeah: Epoxies harden just by being combined. You don't have to heat it like you do with Sculpey. Different epoxies have different set times, so you might consider getting yourself a couple of different set times. They can be carved, sanded and painted with ease.
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09-08-2008, 03:38 PM | #3 |
has been warned
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 2,039
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Yes green stuff holds up very well. It completely hardens and I wouldnt say it would break unless you make a long piece and put stress on it.
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09-08-2008, 03:40 PM | #4 |
Real Life Dreadnok!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: E'ville, IN
Posts: 230
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Would they hold their shape well enough to create a mold?
Such as...when I create a custom figure of myself...I want it to have my mohawk. Will the epoxy hold good enough to create a mold so that I can make more just by pouring my plastic mix in there once it's done? Or will it destroy the original mohawk? Either way, I guess if it hold well enough to make the mold...that's all that would really matter. I just don't want the mohawk to break off in the mold where I can't get it out and the mold is ruined and the mohawk is ruined too. Guess I'm gonna' have to experiment. Thank you for the info though! |
09-08-2008, 03:49 PM | #5 |
has been warned
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 2,039
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mohawks aside, you can do a search on youtube to see a tutorial of someone using green stuff to make a mold.
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09-08-2008, 03:50 PM | #6 |
Plastic-Curves.com
Join Date: May 2008
Location: DeLand, Florida
Posts: 3,019
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The epoxies shouldn't break off unless you sculpted the part with a weak point or fault. The stuff is strong and stands up to drilling and cutting.
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09-08-2008, 03:50 PM | #7 |
Cletus Kasady Approved!!!
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Sarasota, Florida
Posts: 350
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Quote:
Would they hold their shape well enough to create a mold?
Such as...when I create a custom figure of myself...I want it to have my mohawk. Will the epoxy hold good enough to create a mold so that I can make more just by pouring my plastic mix in there once it's done? Or will it destroy the original mohawk? Either way, I guess if it hold well enough to make the mold...that's all that would really matter. I just don't want the mohawk to break off in the mold where I can't get it out and the mold is ruined and the mohawk is ruined too. Guess I'm gonna' have to experiment. Thank you for the info though!
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09-08-2008, 03:51 PM | #8 |
Real Life Dreadnok!
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: E'ville, IN
Posts: 230
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Well, I'm gonna' use silicone rubber for the mold...but epoxy for the mohawk on the head. Then layer the rubber around the head and wait for it to set, then pop the head out, pour the plastic in...wait...and hope like hell for the best!
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09-08-2008, 04:00 PM | #9 |
Ninja Force UK
Join Date: May 2008
Location: England
Posts: 8,053
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I use green stuff for all my customs,this shredder helmet is all green stuff and its VERY durable:
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09-08-2008, 05:29 PM | #10 |
Nemesis Creator
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 2,355
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Green stuff as a sculpting medium is great. It still retains a slight flexibility when cured, and is tooled properly can be made to have a very glossy factory style finish. I don't like sanding it to smooth it up though, as it always seems to leave some telltale marks even after wet-sand with 1000 grit paper.
For structural and other sculpting that doesn't require some flexibility after curing, I use Ave's Apoxie Sculpt and Ave's Fixit Sculpt. I've also used Milliput Superfine White. All of these cure very hard, and are excellent for "dry" sculpting afterward. If you are not sure about making a silicone mold and don't want to spend the money to buy the tools and materials, contact me through the store email and I'll see what I can do to help. |
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