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06-10-2008, 09:01 PM | #41 |
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: South Texas RIO GRANDE VALLEY
Posts: 11,700
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Testors is good because it is odorless. Tamiya is just as good but it stinks to high heaven. Also try Games Workshop Acrylics paints as well.
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06-10-2008, 09:04 PM | #42 |
Sunsword = Fabulous!
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Portland, ME
Posts: 3,628
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Good luck man and be sure to post some pics of your work so we can see how you're doing?
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06-10-2008, 09:09 PM | #43 |
ARASHIKAGE CLAN
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 1,309
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O.k. thanks everyone!!!
Last edited by crazyfellow1; 06-10-2008 at 09:41 PM.. |
06-11-2008, 01:37 PM | #44 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Tamiya acrylic paints can be found at any reputable hoby shops. They work excellently. Avoid walmart or target for paints. That stuff is suitable for crafts (old lady/kid stuff) not model paints.
Even if you are a beginer, there is no need to use crappy materials. There is thinner for acrylic paints. but you can use water as well. Seriously though, alot of us veteran customizers have no issue with the Apple Barrel (Wal-Mart) paints. You can get some great drybrushing and washing using those whereas you would get an 'orange-peel' result doing the same methods with a more expensive paint. Personally, I use a wide variety of paints - For my blacks and yellows, I'll always use Testors. For greens and browns and flesh, Apple Barrel all the way. You can get great results with the cheap paints, you've just got to be patient with the them like others in this thread have said. And I guess while on the subject of thinner, I exclusively use 90% alcohol to thin my acrylics. It thins just as well as water, yet evaporates faster so the paint dries faster. - Rob |
06-11-2008, 03:04 PM | #45 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 42
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Thanks for all the advice. I also hope to start some customs soon and can use all the help I can get. I used to do it with the Jakks WWE figures, but it has been a long time.
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06-11-2008, 06:23 PM | #46 |
Cult of the No-Ring
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Stuck filling out useless information on the details page
Posts: 778
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I have no idea how you guys are getting those craft paints to stick to Joes. The only luck I've had with any of that stuff is the Folk Art acrylic enamels, and then only if it goes over top of my model acrylics. I really think that most of those paints are meant for pourus surfaces. The craft paints all scratch off easily, even after a days drying time, no matter how I prepare my surface.
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06-11-2008, 06:39 PM | #47 |
Cobra Undertaker
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pottsville, PA
Posts: 1,700
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I've had luck with the cheapo paints...but I do as stated, several thin coats over time. When all dry...I hit it with matte clear coat and haven't had any worries.
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06-11-2008, 09:05 PM | #48 |
Cobra Soldier
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 41
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Quote:
Quote:
Sealer is absolutely necessary. It's more about protection than prep. I seen you guys mention brush-on primer and for brush on, I'd recommend Delta Ceramcoat brand Matte or Satin finish. Both do a fine job of protecting craft paint. Also, if you want to use sprays, Testors Dullcote is great, but you end up with a very VERY matte finish. If I use a primer, it's generally spray Krylon Matte White. I've been avoiding it for Joes though, as at 3.75" scale it's much easier to get a loss of detail from it than on the six inchers that I normally work on. |
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