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01-28-2009, 11:50 PM | #1 |
^No Step^
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Argentina
Posts: 9,056
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Okay, i've read that enamels and varnish would never dry.
So i've been staying only with acrylics. But i was recently checking what i have fixed and what not, i've realized that i use enamel on some of the first repaints. So i decided to give it a try with some spare parts. I've found so far, that enamels work fine. In fact it gives an outstanding base paint to work with, and very flexible, so it is safe for painting on belts, vests etc, which require to be bend to put it back on the figure. It takes a bit more of time to dry on the soft plastic like arms, but when it does, is very resistant, seems like the soft plastic makes a better hold for the enamel. Varnish works too. It has an exception: Grey colours. If the surface has some degree of grey, the varnish gets sticky. It takes days to finally dry. (if you rub the sticky parts with your fingers, you'll eventually get rid of the stickiness, but i guess that would weaken the barnish) I had this issue in Firefly (which is almost all grey), Scarlett on the lower legs (the grayish blue), and "Bucaneer" gold head Destro (the grey in the arms). It seems that pain in the soft plastic (and the plastic itself) is the only one that has problems. I assume it's some chemical component. This doesn't happen in the hard plastic, like Firefly's torso. i thought this could be useful for modders |
01-28-2009, 11:59 PM | #2 |
Plastic-Curves.com
Join Date: May 2008
Location: DeLand, Florida
Posts: 3,019
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Doesn't work with all enamels on all plastics.
Many softer plastics will either never dry, or eventually break down from the caustic chemicals in the enamel paint. Most enamels are designed only for hard plastics. And they also require other caustic chemicals for thinning and cleaning. Also, from a health perspective, I would rather use non-toxic acrylics than stuff that fries brain cells and may cause other damage to my body. As an aside, I tried using enamels on a TF repaint. The plastic crumbled in my hands. Last edited by Bamphalas; 01-29-2009 at 07:44 AM.. |
01-28-2009, 11:59 PM | #3 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,470
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I use the enamels I have mostly because I'm too cheap to hunt down the acrylics to replace them in my 'pallet'.
It works just fine on the hard plastic - no issues at all. The soft plastic it usually has stayed tacky & prone to retaining fingerprints. This is worse on some figures than others & some can actually take some pressure before imprinting.
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01-29-2009, 12:00 AM | #4 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,064
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hmmm... interesting. May have to test this out on some of the joint areas.
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01-29-2009, 12:14 AM | #5 |
^No Step^
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Argentina
Posts: 9,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyroclasm
Doesn't work with all enamels on all plastics.
Many softer plastics will either never dry, or eventually break down from the caustic chemicals in the enamel paint. Most enamels are designed only for hard plastics. And they also require other caustic chemicals for thinning and cleaning. Also, from a health perspective, I would rather use non-toxic acrylics that stuff that fries brain cells and may cause other damage to my body. It would be cool to have a list of the chemicals of safe enamels...i'll see what mine have. Quote:
Originally Posted by Pyroclasm
As an aside, I tried using enamels on a TF repaint. The plastic crumbled in my hands.
BTw, thanks for the tip of sanding down the articulations, Pyroclasm, it worked perfect Quote:
Originally Posted by Prince of Fire & Thunder
I use the enamels I have mostly because I'm too cheap to hunt down the acrylics to replace them in my 'pallet'.
Toolazy too, to go out and look for the exact colours... Quote:
Originally Posted by Prince of Fire & Thunder
It works just fine on the hard plastic - no issues at all. The soft plastic it usually has stayed tacky & prone to retaining fingerprints. This is worse on some figures than others & some can actually take some pressure before imprinting.
As i've said, grey soft plastic, painted or raw, seems to give problems. The custom cobra i'm doing has three layers of enamel, it dried perfectly in all areas, and since the enamel has more "body" than acrilics, it also filled all the imperfections, and made all the sculpt portions seamless. Overall, i think that enamels are great for a base to paint on green stuff or apoxies, which are very though for acrilics. |
01-29-2009, 12:14 AM | #6 |
a series of tubes
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Northern IN
Posts: 5,551
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I stay far far away from enamels. No good has ever come from their use in my experience - except for blood red enamels for, well, blood. Sticky, wet, glossy...
I can't understand how enamels worked on your flexible parts without chipping or flaking off... but hey, if it worked for you, great. |
01-29-2009, 12:18 AM | #7 |
^No Step^
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Argentina
Posts: 9,056
|
Quote:
I stay far far away from enamels. No good has ever come from their use in my experience - except for blood red enamels for, well, blood. Sticky, wet, glossy...
I can't understand how enamels worked on your flexible parts without chipping or flaking off... but hey, if it worked for you, great. Aside of the grey issue (which i've fixed easily), everything go very well. For example, i've painted every little detail on Wild Weasel, and then i've applied varnish (or gloss) ALL over the figure, just in case, and didn't had any probles. What's more, since i use a mate varnish, now the figure doesn't have that annoying plastic shine :P |
01-29-2009, 12:20 AM | #8 |
Cobra Officer, 1st Lt.
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Denver
Posts: 446
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I've used acrylics on everything. Water based and easy to clean up. Until a dull cote goes on, they can be delicate but the colors and tones work best for me. Not to mention the flats and glosses look more realistic for the scale.
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01-29-2009, 12:26 AM | #9 |
Crimson Guard
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,064
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Post up some good pics for us to see....
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01-29-2009, 12:27 AM | #10 |
^No Step^
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Argentina
Posts: 9,056
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Quote:
And since they're water based, doing shades is far more easier and look great when dried. But i've mentioned the enamels, cos they can work really well, and in some cases is better than acrilics, specially when covering large surfaces or working on parts too flexible. |
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