|01-13-2009, 12:55 AM||#1|
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Tampa, FL
Not sure if there is a "Dremel How-to" thread yet... but I decided to share my experiences with the rest of you cousomtizers. This is my first ever "Official How-To'' ... So if you want it stickied... I have no problem. I am all about sharing the knowledge with other customizers. Oh, and I have NO AFFILIATION with Dremel or any other hand-held multi speed tool in case someone thinks that I am just plugging their product...
I noticed that a fellow tanker was asking Which one...? Well as another tanker said, get one that is Multi-Speed. Sooo TRUE! You'll need it to keep from burning through the soft and hard plastics. I keep it between 2000 and 3500 rpm's, its almost the lowest operating setting, for cutting on Joes. To much speed will cause the plastic to melt and stick to the cutting accessory. There is a miniature file set that comes with about 12 various files in different shapes that can be used to do what I am about to discuss, but if you want to use a Dremel, and take the time to learn...it'll work just was well and a little faster. This takes some skill and patience to get used to, but I have been using my Dremel for about 13 years now and since day one of Joe Customizing. Hell... I wore my old model out that I used it so much in wood working! You don't want to go too fast because you will jack up the part. Slow is fast in this case.
Anyhow, on to the skinny!! I use the Dremel Multi-Pro Model 395. It is now discontinued because it was an anniversary edition or something, but you can still get a multi-speed model such as the 400 Series XXBR or the 300 Series. I think that the XBR is combination of Gray, blue,and black. The 300 is all black. The only differencce that I can see in the two is style and comfort, but with the flex-shaft attachment....comfort is achieved either way. What ever you get, even if it is the smaller Stylus Model, just make sure it has a varible speed!
As far as what accessories to use, I have the Flex-Shaft model 225-01 Model (seen above). It has a comfortable grip, like one of those fat ink pens, and doesn't cause any hand fatigue.
Here are the cutting accessories that I use to add clearence to the pieces in order to minimize/eliminate paint wear and rub. Notice I said "minimize" becasue no matter how much you put into your customs, the paint finish will not be as resistant as "Factory-Finishes". Excessive play/movement will wear and rub paint off eventually. I do use the "Super-Glue Shield" Technique on almost all joint and contact points that Jin Saotome discusses on his home page (Thanks Jin! One of the best tips I have ever used!!)
This one is the #134 High Speed Cutter. It is damn near perfect for adding some clearence the shoulder pockets and bottom of the upper torso. I also tilt it downward to get into the lat section of the torso on some figures like SE. It is a great fit for adding clearence to the elbow connecting pocket of the upper arms too.
Next up is the #199 High Speed Cutter. I use this one for trimming down the inner joints on shoulders and elbows. It is about 1/16 of an inch and takes about 2 -3 passes to level out a section of teh shoulders, but it fits inside without mangling the outer arms pieces.
N ext is.. more high speed cutters lol! These are, from left to right, #100, 192, and 194. I use #'s 100 and 192 to trim out the inner pockets of the crotch area where the upper legs connect to the T-bar. You can also use these to fix the dreaded "Diaper Crotch" syndrome. #100 is slightly larger than #192, you have to fit these to certain crotch areas because one may be to big and not fit between the T-bar and inner pocket. Typically, you will want to use the smaller #192 is for female lower torsos. The longer, rectangular shaped high speed cutter, #194 is used for the knee areas along the edges where the upper leg separates from the lower knee joint and the upper knee "O" connecting piece. You only want to take a very little off there becasue if you do too much, it'll make your figures legs too loose. I usually juat take some off the from where the piece is visible between the knee and upper leg.
Last edited by Marine_Deadpool; 01-13-2009 at 01:16 AM..
|01-13-2009, 01:03 AM||#2|
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Tampa, FL
Here is a close up of the shoulder ring after using the high speed cutter #194. As you can see by the outside slivers, I have not sanded it yet. Notice the added space between the shoulder ring and arm. This allows paint to stay intact instead of rubbing off so easily.
Here is the drill bits from Dremel that I use for drilling holes in the custom silencers I make for SE's Uzi. One size for attaching, 3/64, and the smallest, 1/32, for the end that the bullet comes out of ;)
Which brings me to sanding. This is a no-brainer..., but you will have to sand the areas after dremeling. I use 320 grit sand paper and then on to 800 grit.
After all is sanded, its primer time! Which for me is a coat of Tamiya FINE Primer. After about 15 minutes of drying..or longer if you want to wait. Let the painting begin!
Hope this is of use to you folks. If you want any specific questions answered, LMK. I can also show you some specific pictures of varuois parts if needed for clarification. Hope to see some more great customs out there! I'll add to this as required, and if anyone else want to add, please fell free too. I might even learn something new, and I am all about that.
Last edited by Marine_Deadpool; 01-13-2009 at 01:13 AM..
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