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Paints & Supplies, recommendations on what materials to use for customs!

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Old 07-18-2008, 11:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Paints & Supplies, recommendations on what materials to use for customs!

Hello.

How Y'all doin? This site rules! I'm new here, and I have recently been bitten by the collector's bug. I love these 25th ann. figures. I've been eager to try my hand at customizing these toys. But I don't know what kind of paints and glues to use. I read through some of the stickies on this Custom section, and I was thinking that it would be nice if there was a all in one Kitbashersguide to customizing thread.

Ya know, like what kind of supplies, tools, paints, and glues to use.

Anyway just a suggestion. You guys will be seeing me around here a lot.

Thanks!
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Paints: can't go wrong with Tamiya, and Model Masters (by Testors) is also good, and easier to find than Tamiya! but BE SURE you get Acrylic... it's water based, so it dries faster (enamel, on the other hand, sometimes doesn't dry at all!!!), and it's easier to clean up spills... you don't even have to buy thinner... just use a jar of water!

Glues: Super glue works fine, but I personally use "Extreme Power" Cyanoacrylate glue, found in the model car section at Hobby Lobby in a clear tube with a green label.

Tools: decent paintbrushes (not those crappy Model Car brushes... get one of those $7.99 Leow-Cornell brand brush packs at Hobby Lobby and you should be fine), X-Acto knife (and plenty of blades), small Philips head screwdriver, flat-head scrwedriver, and pretty much anything you may have laying around...

Putty/Sculpting stuff: GreenStuff! I haven't been able to find any in stores... I get mine off e(vil)Bay.
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Old 07-19-2008, 12:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I was under the impression that some paints actually melt the plastic. Is this true in some cases? Or any glues for that matter?

What are the ones to stay away from?
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Old 07-19-2008, 12:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie Dobbs View Post
I was under the impression that some paints actually melt the plastic. Is this true in some cases? Or any glues for that matter?

What are the ones to stay away from?
I have heard of this as well, but if you stick to acrylics, you will have no problems. No Acrylics should ever melt plastic
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Old 07-19-2008, 04:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Model Car Glue (Testors Model Cement) melts plastic. Stick with normal Super Glue/Krazy Glue or Cyanoacrylate Glue and you'll be fine.
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Old 07-19-2008, 06:23 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Platic weld is actually a great way to go for glueing plastic together, because it melts the plastic. It's basically model glue that works on ABS and PVC, as well as polystyrene. The only plastic weld I have is made by Testors, and doesn't work that well on PVC. I use CA (super glue) because it holds to most things. I suggest getting CA from a hobby shop of some sort. I've never had much luck getting regular super glues to hold well.

I'll second the vote for Model Master paints. I've also recently had a chance to use vellejo paint, and I like it, as well.

There are some clear enamels out there, that will attack clear plastics. I've also run across people who swear up and down that enamels will destroy plastic, over time. I've painted a number of models with different enamel paints, and over a decade later, they're still fine. If any plastic is going to be damaged by a paint, it's model styrene.

How ever, you still don't want to use enamels on Joes, because it won't fully cure on the softer plastics used in newer Joes. It won't dry past being soft, sticky, and gummy. Model enamels tend to dry kind of soft, anyway.

Just remember that not all acrylic paints are meant to be used on non porous surfaces, like plastic. This is why I generally stay away from craft paints, unless they're labeled as an acrylic enamel.
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Old 07-19-2008, 06:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Welcome! Yes, any enamel paints will cause a reaction to most of the plastics used on Joes, and will cause it to remain tacky for years. Stick with the suggestions mentioned.

Now, that said, Run, Ronnie, run!
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Old 07-19-2008, 06:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i haven't tried it yet but im a painter by trade, residential commercial production an what have you, an sherwin williams has a latex bondin primer, an i wanted to try it on vehicles an figures, then apply the top color paint, an i would clean the surface wit paint thinner rag, an let dry an not touch wit fingers. then spray the primer, in thin coat. i read someone sayin soap an water first, an i dont know how that works, paint dont adhere to soap an water cleaned surfaces. a bleach solution may be the other way i would try after paint thinner. i already sprayed a ferret frame wit that fusion stuff, two spots, one spot was cleaned wit thinner an the other not, i was nervouse of thinner meltin the plastic but it didnt, an thats a pvc type plastic. they have bonding primer in a can so you can actually buy a qt, an pour a lil in a cup an paint it by hand wit a lil art brush, but for vehicles i would spray . this is the approach im takin that an dyin. i jus need to figure out how to crack open a joe. oh an dont soak the rag in thinner you only need a lil bit, an rub all parts so the oils dissapear. an the paint bonds. clean surface is rule number one in paintin'!
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Old 07-19-2008, 07:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I tend to wipe mine down with isopropyl alchohol, before I paint. It also cleans any oils and mold release agents off, and there's no fear if it damaging the plastic.

Is that bonding primer similar to the plastic adhesion inducer sold for autobody work? I'm always on the lookout for anything that will let paint stick to the handrails on my model train stuff.
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Old 07-20-2008, 12:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I tend to wipe mine down with isopropyl alchohol, before I paint. It also cleans any oils and mold release agents off, and there's no fear if it damaging the plastic.

Is that bonding primer similar to the plastic adhesion inducer sold for autobody work? I'm always on the lookout for anything that will let paint stick to the handrails on my model train stuff.
you gotta look it up. its a sherwin williams latex bonding primer. it adheres to pvc metal anything, some stuff may need an additional buff for bite thats mostly things wit a sheen! if that sticks then any paint will bond to that. it hit me one day. cus i know bout paints, an some things are hard to get paint to adhere to. an plastic is one, a slight buss wont ever hurt jus make sure the object your sandin is hard enough for the paper you use. like i would use if was to sand a item, somethin in a high number where it sands but dont eat the material you're sandin. it would be light an the primer will bond better an fill in imperfections. the ruffer the paper the lower the number will destroy the surface. so always go for a finish sand paper, an always wash off the dust, cus that will stop adhiesion. like it said thinner or some light solvent nuttin strong like zylene thats for sure to melt the poly or whatever they are made out of, or bleach water, an yes you said some sort of alchohol. any solvent that is light will deminish oils. so thats the best way in my opinion to prep before applying paint. not soap an water. an no finger prints. use surgeon gloves to handle clean items. go to your local sherwin williams, an take a look at the gallon of primer., it should be in a isile near the cash register or jus ask to see it, an read the can, qts are gonna run ya some money it always pays off to buy a gallon in my line of work but for this i would jus pay the loot for the qt cus that will last a long ass time, they got it in a spray can aswell, but another thing you can do is they got this lil jar an spray nozzle an maby a co2 cartridge or somethin an it sprays a lil jars worth, thats something to think bout as well, im not to up on air brush but would like to learn bout that, an that primer might beable to be sprayed through that, might need to be cut though. but like i said go to your local s.w an check it out, an any paint will bond to that oil, latex,fusion, whatever. an always do thin coats, thin coats are better then thick ones, thick ones dont cure right. as thin ones do an very quickly. better bond. bonding primer is my only solution to bonding paint to plastic,. other then that you can say model master or whatever an testors all you want. it will chip! an great paint adheision comes from great prep work. no oils no sheen no dust! an thin coats!
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